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TASTING THE WINES OF DOMAINE DE LA POUSSE D’OR

domaine de la Pousse d'or

Domaine de la Pousse d’Or cuts an imposing figure in the small town of Volnay. As the gates swung upon and I made my way up the cobblestone drive, I was struck by the stately manor house before me and the sense of history all around.

Established, as part of a larger estate in the 16th century, the domaine takes its name from one of its three, famed monopole vineyards: Clos de la Bousse d’Or, an old French term meaning “Golden Earth”. Over time, with the evolution of language, the B became P and thus the domaine was christened (though the vineyard plot retains the original B).

In 1997, industrialist Patrick Landanger acquired Domaine de la Pousse d’Or from legendary Volnay winemaker Gérard Potel. Vineyard purchases followed in Puligny-Montrachet, Corton, Chambolle-Musigny, and Clos de la Roche. Today, the estate consists of 17-hectares of certified biodynamically farmed vineyards including an impressive five Grand Cru plots and 11 Premier Crus, three of which are monopoles (exclusively owned by the estate).

Landanger originally intended to delegate winemaking responsibilities, but after five years and five different winemakers he decided to take over the reins, going back to school in Beaune to study oenology. He also set about rebuilding the winery, implementing a gravity flow system and various other improvements.

All Pinot Noir grapes are destemmed at Domaine de la Pousse d’Or, followed by a five day cold soak. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks with wild yeasts, to a maximum temperature of 32°C. Barrel maturation lasts 12 to 18 months in roughly 30% new French oak. Minimal sulphur is used and all wines are bottled via gravity flow, unfined and unfiltered, according to the lunar calendar.

Wine writer Stephen Brook once remarked in a Decanter.com article, “Volnay is the Chambolle-Musigny of the Côte de Beaune, it is marked by elegance rather than power”. This mantra seems to underpin the winemaking style of Domaine de la Pousse d’Or, whose array of top Volnay terroirs is matched by similar pedigree plots in Chambolle Musigny. In fact, my 2017 vintage tasting centred around these two star appellations.

Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru “Les Feusselottes” 2017

Very fragrant, with pretty red cherry, crushed raspberry, floral and marzipan aromas. Brisk on the palate, with medium body, lively red and black fruit flavours and silky tannins.

Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru “Les Groseilles” 2017

Les Groseilles shows more black fruit nuances than Les Feusselottes. Quite firm in structure, with fine-grained tannins and a weighty core of ripe black fruits. Pleasing earthy nuances are revealed on the finish.

Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru “Les Amoureuses” 2017

Beautifully floral nose, redolent with violets, rose petals, mixed red and black fruit aromas, and finally mocha nuances that develop with aeration. Very silky and fresh on the palate, with impressive depth of tangy wild berry fruit that lingers long on the finish.

Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 2017

Highly complex and incredibly appealing, with layers of crushed raspberry, red cherry, blueberry, wet leaf, leather, mocha, and graphite on the nose. The palate is weighty and dense, yet shows lovely finesse with its plush texture, vibrant fruit, well-integrated spicy oak and polished tannins.

Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 2017

A powerful wine with its firm, grippy structure and impressive concentration. Aromas of ripe black fruit layered with deeper notes of truffles, exotic spice, and cedar are echoed on the palate. The finish is framed by big, muscular tannins that need time to unfurl.

Volnay 1er Cru “Clos de la Bousse d’Or” 2017

A lovely mineral expression on the nose gives way to brambly red berry and cherry notes. The pa;ate offers brisk acidity, medium body, moderate concentration, and a firm structure. The tannins are somewhat chewy, with just a hint of refreshing bitterness. The finish is long, and lifted.

Volnay 1er Cru “Clos des Soixante Ouvrées” 2017

Really inviting tangy red cherry and violet notes are lifted by layers of exotic spice and warm earthy nuances on the nose and palate. Brisk acidity and a fairly sinewy palate structure, with ripe yet firm tannins that require a little time to soften. Mocha, grilled hazelnut, and cedar hints linger on the long finish.

An amphora trial of the same cuvée showed similar aromatics but a smoother, fleshier texture, with fine-grained tannins and bright, pure fruit flavours.

Corton Clos du Roi Grand Cru 2017

Beautifully fragrant nose featuring vibrant red berry fruit with undertones of clove, violets, wet leaf, and leather. Bright acidity is ably matched by a highly concentrated, juicy core of red fruit. Overall quite a tightly knit, full bodied offering with ripe, yet muscular tannins that require a few years to soften.

Reviews Wines

The fickle finesse of Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir grape overview

While Pinot Noir is often cited as one of the most popular grape varieties in North America, it only accounts for a measly 2% of marketshare (according to a 2014 study by the University of Adelaide).  It is no match for the heavy hitters Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with over 3 times as many plantings world-wide. Why is this? Well, Pinot Noir is a notoriously hard grape to grow. Just like Goldilocks and her porridge, Pinot Noir does not like it too hot or too cold. It is suceptible to frost, prone to rot and a host of other diseases and viruses, and often suffers problems at flowering leading to crop loss and uneven ripening. It is also a fairly low yielding grape. So why, you may be asking yourself, do so many top class wine producers bother to grow it?

At its best, Pinot Noir is the most ethereal of wines, possessing an elegance and finesse that no other red variety even comes close to matching. It is a thin skinned grape, leading to wines of fairly pale colour, vibrant acidity, light to medium body and low tannins.  Aromas range from earthy notes, red berries, game and floral tones in cooler climates to black cherry, cola and baking spices in hotter vineyards. Though the origin of the grape is unknown, Pinot Noir’s adopted home is, undisputedly, the famed region of Burgundy. Nowadays, Pinot Noir is grown around the world; through out France, Italy, Germany, Australia, New Zeland, USA, Chile, South Africa and many other countries.

At its best, Pinot Noir is the most ethereal of wines, possessing an elegance and finesse that no other red variety even comes close to matching.

If you have read my tasting style page, you will know that I am a wholehearted Burgundy lover. It is an incredible place. Evidence of grape growing dates back to the 2nd century AD. The vineyards are a patchwork of small, individual plots lining a gentle, eastern facing limestone slope. Basic red Pinot Noir from across the region is labelled Bourgogne, whereas superior wines carry the names of the single village or vineyard sitings where they are grown, like Chambolle Musigny or Corton. Burgundy is a cool place, with a heavy fog that seems to descend in November and lift at the end of March. Summers are hit and miss, and in poor vintages, many wines can be acidic, thin and reedy. Yet, in the years when the vines get enough sunshine, Burgundy produces the most incrediblely complex, elegant, nuanced and long lasting Pinot Noirs on earth.

New Zealand is a relatively new player in the Pinot game. Growers started focussing on the grape in earnest in the late 1970s. Today, it is the most planted red grape variety in the country. The majority of plantings can be found on the South Island, in Marlborough and the Central Otago region. Marlborough Pinot Noir from the right producers (Mt. Riley and Vavasour come to mind) is gulpably good, with aromas of dark cherry, plums and spice, medium body and fine, rounded tannins. The Central Otago is developing a reputation as the best New Zealand terroir for serious Pinot Noir. The cool, mountaneous terrain yields wines of great intensity and finesse.  High toned, fragrant reds are made here with bright red and black berry fruit, a firm structure yet silky texture. Alcohol levels are surprisingly high, but generally well integrated lending weight and roundness.

You may assume that Australia is too hot of a country for balanced Pinot Noir, but the state of Victoria and island of Tasmania offer several interesting cooler climate vineyard sites. In Victoria, the best known region for Pinot Noir is the Yarra Valley. Rolling hills and valleys from 50m to 400m in altitude make for a huge range of temperatures and soil compositions, hence a wide diversity of wine styles. The best Yarra Pinot Noirs display pretty red fruits, spice, wood smoke and sometimes a meaty undertone.

In California, the sunny climate shines through on Pinot Noir. It is much sweeter and sappier, with bright, almost candied fruit, cola notes and often a healthy dollop of vanilla from oak ageing. Cooler climates do exist in areas through out Sonoma, the Central Coast and Carneros, thanks to the maritime influence. However, the wines still display more overt fruitiness and softer acidity for the most part, than any other major Pinot Noir producing country.

Though this title is hotly disputed among New World vineyards, Oregon is often cited as having the most Burgundian of Pinot Noir styles. The Oregon Wine Board’s website has a great tagline…”if you were a wine grape, you’d want to be planted in Oregon”. They boast a long, sunny growing season with crisp, cool nights giving wines with excellent balance of fresh acidity and ripe, juicy fruit. While many regions can (and do) make the same claim, the best Pinot Noirs from Oregon are living proof of the promised brightness and vibrancy. AVAs like the Willamette Valley and Yamhill-Carlton are home to some stunning examples.

For the purposes of this initial overview tasting, I chose examples from the following producers: (What do VW, PW and LW mean?  Click on my wine scoring system to find out).

La Pousse d’Or Volnay 1er Cru “En Caillerets” 2010 – 93pts LW

A testament to the expression that “patience is a virtue”. At first glance, a restrained, tightly woven offering with a firm structure and seemingly simple earthy, red berry aromas. Upon aeration, the development in glass was superb. The nose showed great elegance, with cassis bud, floral notes and vibrant strawberry aromas. The racy acidity was solidly balanced by a velvetty texture and firm, yet finely grained tannins. The oak is very well integrated, adding lovely textural elements without overpowering the moderate length finish.

Where to Buy: SAQ (the 2010 is sold out, but the 2011 & 2012 – albeit lesser vintages – are available for 94$ and 114$ respectively)

Sylvie Esmonin Gevrey Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 2012 – 91pts LW

Headed up by a fantastic female winemaker, this organic estate makes bold, stylish Gevrey Chambertin. The 2012 old vines cuvée displays enticing mixed black fruits, mocha and forest floor notes. Crisp and juicy on the palate, with lots of body and and good depth through the mid-palate. Big, velvetty tannins frame the finish nicely.

Where to Buy: Not currently sold in Ontario or Quebec

Cloudline Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2013 – 90pts. PW

This highly drinkable red offers great value for the price. A pretty, pale ruby colour, offering vibrant red cherry, cranberry and strawberry fruit, with underlying early grey notes. The tart acidity is backed by a fresh, linear structure, subtle rounded tannins and moderate, 13% alcohol.

Where to Buy: SAQ (25.55$)

Coldstream Hills Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2012 – 87pts. PW

A bigger, bolder wine with a deeper ruby colour, full body and big, chewy tannins. Intense aromas of macerated red fruits, herbal notes and a certain meatiness. Fresh acidity frames the broad, fleshy structure. The oak is just a touch too prominent for my liking, adding toasty, spiced, mocha notes to the finish. The alcohol, though a reasonable 13.5%, feels a little hot.

Where to Buy: SAQ (30.25$)

Wooing Tree “Beetle Juice” Pinot Noir Central Otago 2012 – 89pts. PW

If one can get passed the unattractive label, this Central Otago Pinot has a lot to offer. Deep ruby in colour, with pretty, ripe black berry, black cherry, floral and spiced aromas. The high toned acidity leads into a lifted, juicy core and a toasty oaked finish. The tannins are firm and grippy; potentially needing a couple of years to unwind. The alcohol is a slightly overpowering 14.5%.

Where to Buy: LCBO (39.95$), SAQ (31.50$)

La Crema Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2013 – 86pts. PW

Though I am sure this easy drinking, intensely fruit style would have many admirers, it is not the style of Pinot Noir I personally enjoy. Medium ruby in colour, with overt stewed strawberry, cola and spiced notes. Moderate acidity, with a firm yet velvetty structure, jammy fruit on the palate and vanilla and custard cream oak flavours on the fairly short finish.

Where to Buy: LCBO (31.95$), SAQ (34.00$)