Twenty years ago, when I first started out in the wine trade, organic wines were a rare find. In viticulture classes, I was taught the importance of regular chemical fungicide spraying regimes. Vines were carefully tended to pristine, bare soils with nary a weed in sight. Organic wines were the provenance of a handful of small-scale, premium wineries—or they were PR vehicles for larger producers that, more often than not tasted tart, lean, and vegetal.
Fast forward to today, and it’s a whole different story.
Organic wine has gone from niche to mainstream, with great options at every price point. Consumer demand has played a big role, but so have advances in vineyard management, making organic farming more viable even in regions that once relied heavily on conventional methods.
However, organic doesn’t necessarily equate to environmentally perfect. For most organic wine producers, controlling fungal diseases without synthetic treatments generally means a heavy reliance on copper-based sprays. Studies have shown that excessive copper levels lead to reduced microbial activity and biodiversity in the soil, both of which are crucial for vine health and soil fertility. More frequent tractor passes for organic vineyard maintenance also increase fuel consumption and soil compaction.
For consumers, making ethical wine choices isn’t always straightforward. Labels don’t tell the whole story, and the reality of farming is complex. But, a wealth of research is underway, with the intent of improving organic means of fighting vineyard disease. Though it may be hard to know which producers are genuinely producing wines in the most eco-friendly and sustainable ways, it is gratifying to see so much choice, and to know that, while not perfect today, we are moving toward far greener viticulture.
Last week, I had the chance to taste some of the latest organic releases at the SAQ. From budget-friendly everyday wines to more structured, complex bottles, here are some of my top picks that deliver on both taste and sustainability.
EVERY DAY BARGAINS (Under $17)
Comte Alexandre Pierre Côtes du Rhône Red 2023 – 88pts. VW
Pleasant, everyday Côtes du Rhône red with typical ripe dark fruit, floral, and spiced notes. Medium bodied, with juicy black cherry and plum flavours and a rounded structure. Finishes with slightly rustic tannins, serve with a meal.
Where to Buy: SAQ ($14.05), agent: BMT
Peninsula Vinicultores, Oveja Blanca Dry Muscat Joven 2023 – 89pts. VW 15,75$
Expressive, aromatic nose of stone fruit and floral hints. Fresh, light-bodied and smooth on the palate, with tangy citrus and peachy flavours, and a refreshing hint of bitterness on the finish.
Where to Buy: SAQ ($15.75), agent: Authentic Vins & Spiritueux
Rocca di Montemassi, Le Focaie Maremma Toscana 2022 – 90pts VW
Quite a restrained Sangiovese, with an earthy brooding nose of dark plum, citrus blossom, and dried herbs. Full-bodied yet not overly powerful, with a dry, chalky texture, savoury notes, and quite fine-grained tannins. Really vibrant for the price.
Where to Buy: SAQ ($16.75), agent: Mosaiq Vins & Spiritueux
GOOD VALUES ($17 – $20 Range)
Domaine Julien Braud, Les Vignes du Bourg, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie 2023 – 91pts. VW
A crisp, vivid Muscadet with lots of tension and precision on the palate. Aromas of spring flowers, ripe apple, and anis, give way to more mineral-focused, savoury flavours . Finishes with a pleasing steely edge that gives a great structural framework.
Where to Buy: SAQ ($20.00), agent: Bambara Selection
Poggiotondo Chianti 2023 – 88pts. VW
This uncomplicated Chianti has pretty red plum and cherry notes, with hints of dried flowers. The palate is brisk and lively, with lifted red fruit, medium weight, and subtle, powdery tannins. A fantastic weeknight pizza wine, best slightly chilled.
Where to Buy: SAQ ($18.55), agent: LBV International Inc.
Domaine Canet-Valette St-Chinian “Antonyme 2023 – 90pts VW
Highly appealing nose, with layers of blackberry, raspberry, orange peel, and tea leaf. This Cinsault, Mourvèdre blend is really bright on the palate. Quite modern in style, with a lighter weight structure and silkier texture than was once typical for St. Chinian. Finishes with refreshing, subtly herbal tannins.
Where to Buy: SAQ ($19.80), agent: Le Maître de Chai
GREAT WEEK-END BUYS
Domaine Cazes, Rolle in Stone, Côtes Catalanes 2024 – 90pts. PW
The cleverly named “Rolle in Stone” is a Vermentino (aka Rolle) from Southern France. While the grape often gives quite lean, mineral-driven wines this white is all exuberance, with perfumed aromas of yellow stone fruit and tropical hints. The palate is lightbodied, with a firm structure, lots of freshness, and a rounded finish.
Where to Buy: SAQ ($22.75), agent: Advini
Moulin de Gassac, Tèrra, Languedoc AOP 2023 – 92pts PW
A blend of Grenache blanc, Roussanne, and a touch of Rolle with attractive notes of lemongrass, white pepper, apricot, and floral undertones. Fresh, medium bodied and textured on the palate, with a broad mid-palate, and a subtle grip on the finish.
Where to Buy: SAQ ($24.40), agent: Sélection Fréchette
Gulfi Rossojbleo Nero D’Avola 2023 – 92pts PW
Vintage after vintage, this wine offers consistent good value. The 2023 has an expressive nose of macerated black cherry, blackcurrant and blue fruit, with a touch of clove and subtle gamey undertones. Full-bodied and ample on the palate, combining richness of fruit and fine, firm structure.
Where to Buy: SAQ ($26.20), agent: Bambara Selection
No Comments