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Gulfi Nero d’Avola: A Grand Cru Tasting

Posted on September 19, 2023
Gulfi Nero d'Avola

I have long been an enthusiast of Gulfi Nero d’Avola wines. Despite the arid summer heat of their vineyards in Sicily’s southeast, Gulfi manages to coax freshness and finesse from the region’s powerful red grape. I recently had the occasion to taste the estate’s top wines, alongside their irresistible Cerasuolo Di Vittoria.

Matteo Catania is one of the most infectiously enthusiastic wine producers I have ever met. When he gets started extolling the terroir virtues of his native Chiaramonte Gulfi, or his prime vineyard parcels in Pachino Val di Noto, he can go on for hours. Thankfully, his story is a good one.

It starts with a vision for producing fine wines, of Bourgogne-like elegance, in an area best known for bold, brawny reds. It speaks of determination and a commitment to grow more sustainably – without recourse to irrigation, without chemical treatments, using holistic, biodynamic practices. To read more, check out my profile on Gulfi Wines covering their background and a tasting of their mid-range wines.

In May, I caught up with Matteo Catania once again, this time to taste his single vineyard bottlings from Pachino. The recently granted Pachino DOC lies in the Val di Noto on the southeastern tip of Sicily. According to Matteo, it is the country’s “grand cru” area for the Nero d’Avola grape.

The low lying vineyards of Pachino sit at just 30 metres above sea level between the Ionian and Mediterranean seas. The vines are buffeted by near constant cross winds which cools the temperature and keeps yields low, concentrating flavours.

Significant tectonic activity in the region, due to the meeting of the African and European continent’s tectonic plates in the area, has led to mass upheaval over time. This explains the wide diversity of soil types, predominantly volcanic, limestone, and clay-based.

Gulfi Nero Maccàrj 2017 – 92pts. LW

The Maccàri contrada (aka single vineyard) has chalky clay soils and a warm, south, southwestern orientation. The vines are mature, at over 35-years in age on average. The estate’s policy of dry farming and dense plantings of head-pruned bush-vines in the traditional Alberello style result in very low yields, of just 30 hectolitres/ hectare.

A dark, brooding Nero d’Avola with attractive aromas of cherry stone, black plum, and dried flowers overlying hints of wet earth and cedar. The palate is powerful and fleshy, with a concentrated core of orange peel, dark fruit, and savoury nuances. Finishes fresh, with chalky, ripe tannins. A big but balanced, vibrant red. Decant and serve slightly chilled.

Where to Buy: SAQ ($54.00, code: 15086599), agent: Bambara Selections

Gulfi Nero Bufaleffj 2017 – 94pts. LW

The Bufaleffj contrada has varied soils of mainly volcanic origin, with areas of black clay, red clay, gravel outcrops, and sandy areas. Vinification is similar for the three contrada, native yeast fermentation in stainless steel, followed by two years’ ageing in 500L tonneaux, and an extending resting period after bottling.

Matteo describes the Bufaleffj as “richer, rounder, and more powerful” than the Maccàrj and Sanloré cuvées. The 2017 vintage is indeed a commanding wine. Successive aromas of dark chocolate, baked black plum, cherry stone, blueberry, and almond essence play across the nose. The palate is brisk, full-bodied, and initially quite firm, with impressive mid-palate depth. Notes of wild herbs, tangy dark fruit, cocoa, cedar, and subtle meaty undertones linger on the bold, tannic finish. Decant, or if you have the patience, cellar for at least another 2 – 3 years.

Where to Buy: SAQ ($66.25, code: 15086610), agent: Bambara Selections

Gulfi Nero Sanloré 2017 – 96pts. LW

The San Lorenzo contrada is located less than 70 metres from the Ionian sea, just 15 metres above sea level. Matteo describes the cuvée as “an English gentleman; aristocratic, impeccable, understated and complex”. He goes on to explain how the area’s red, sandy soils give a softer tannin profile, while the proximity to the coast brings lots of freshness and a form of “marine salinity” that makes them very food friendly.

The 2017 vintage is definitely akin to Matteo’s description. Layered aromas of fresh red and dark fruit, dried citrus peel, wild herbs, and balsamic nuances gain in intensity with aeration. The palate opens with lip-smacking freshness that lifts and lightens the bold frame. Quite textural, with lots of tension, and attractive, fine-grained tannins. The finish is long, earthy, and vibrant with lingering bright fruit, savoury hints, and yes…even a hint of salinity. A highly elegant wine. Decant and serve marginally chilled.

Where to Buy: SAQ ($66.25, code: 15086601), agent: Bambara Selections

The final wine is not from a Pachino terroir. However, the new vintage has just been released and it is such amazing value that I couldn’t resist including it here!

Gulfi Cerasuolo Di Vittoria 2020 – 94 pts. PW

Cerasuolo di Vittoria is Sicily’s one and only DOCG appellation. The area of Vittoria is located due west of the Val di Noto, across the Hyblaean mountains, near the Mediterranean coast. Here, Nero d’Avola is joined by the lively, red berry scented Frappato grape. This cuvée is fermented and aged for just under one year in stainless steel, to preserve its youthful, fruity charm.

And charming it very much is! Vivid red berry, cherry, and floral aromas mingle with hints of nutmeg and cracked pepper on the nose. The palate is medium-bodied, with a supple, glossy texture perfectly balanced by lively acidity and juicy, persistent red and dark fruit flavours. A serious, yet ever so easy drinking red. Serve at 16°C to (max) 18°C.

Where to Buy: SAQ ($32.50, code: 14044848), agent: Bambara Selections

Reviews Wines

On Seven Estate Winery: Top Canadian Chardonnay

Posted on September 8, 2023
On Seven Estate Winery 2020 vintage

The top Canadian Chardonnay of twenty years ago were big wines. They were oak-heavy, high in alcohol, ultra-ripe, but also, often sharp in terms of their acid profile. In recent years, judging the National Wine Awards of Canada, and sampling many other top Canadian Chardonnay, it has been clear to see that the style has dramatically shifted.

Many great producers have emerged from coast to coast. In Niagara, wineries like Bachelder, Hidden Bench, Pearl Morisette, and Leaning Post – among many others – have ably shown the region’s potential to make exciting Chardonnay. Among the newer entrants, On Seven Estate Winery is a true stand out.

The property, “on seven” acres of abandoned vineyards in Niagara-on-the-Lake’s Four Mile Creek area, was acquired by aficionados Vittorio & Sula de Stefano in 2009. After extensive uprooting, site analysis, and planning, five acres were planted in well-draining, clay loam soils with significant chalky deposits . No expense was spared.

After a lengthy wait, de Stefano was able to procure top quality rootstocks and clones directly from Burgundy’s highly respected Mercier nursery. Under the guidance of veteran viticultural consultant, Peter Gamble, On Seven estate proceeded to produce very low yields (1 – 2 tonnes per acre) of certified organic wines of impressive complexity and finesse.

The quality here is all the more noteworthy given the location of vineyards. Niagara-on-the-Lake is home to many of the warmest vineyard sites of the peninsula. Most vintners head for the benchlands, in the Niagara Escarpment area, to make cool climate Chardonnay. On Seven derives freshness from a combination of north-facing slopes, chalky soils, and higher acid Dijon clones.

The wines are made in a low intervention style, with gentle, whole cluster pressing, wild yeast fermentations, and lengthy ageing in low levels of new French oak. Tasting across the years, from the inaugural 2017 vintage, to the 2018s and now the 2020s, the quality is consistently high.

And now, the wines are finally available in Québec, though in minute volumes so get them while they last!

On Seven Estate “The Pursuit” Chardonnay 2020 – 94pts.

Initially reserved, with attractive green fruit, citrus blossom, almond, and brioche notes emerging with aeration. The palate displays lovely tension, with crisp acidity, steely structure, and subtly creamy core. Tangy orchard fruit and savoury nuance linger on the finish. Still quite youthful and taut, with a long life ahead. Decant an hour before serving.

On Seven Estate “The Devotion” Chardonnay 2020 – 95pts.

Sourced from their best plots, The Devotion is On Seven estate’s star Chardonnay. A mere 91-cases were made of the 2020 vintage. It is a hugely promising wine. Enticing aromas of anise, white flowers, apple, and hazelnut nougat define the nose. The palate is full-bodied yet lithe and silky in texture with an expansive, layered mid-palate. Finishes on a lifted, savoury note with subtle, refreshing salinity.

Given the boutique size of the winery and lengthy ageing (three years from harvest to bottling), it is not always easy to get your hands on a bottle. If you live in Ontario, I highly recommend getting on their mailing list for future releases. In Québec, the first allocation has arrived! Inquire with agent: Symbiose Vins

Producers Reviews

Le Ragnaie, Brunello di Montalcino in its Prime

Posted on July 13, 2023
Le Ragnaie Brunello di Montalcino

Le Ragnaie Brunello di Montalcino! The past two decades have seen a happy return to a “less is more” philosophy in so many of the world’s fine wine regions. The full throttle wines of the 1990s and early 2000s, with their extended hangtimes, long extraction, and lavish use of new oak, are slowly disappearing. This is certainly the case in Brunello di Montalcino.

Top producers today have found their stride, achieving ripe tannin structures while maintaining balanced freshness and alcohol. The wines of Riccardo and Jennifer Campinoti at Le Ragnaie are a prime example.  The 23-hectare estate has some of the highest altitude vineyards in Montalcino.

In 2017, Le Ragnaie began vinifying its various terroirs individually. They were among the first Brunello producers to offer a wide range of single vineyard bottlings. Among the estate’s top terroirs are its southwest facing old vine vineyards in the central zone of Montalcino, its parcel on Montosoli, and its plots in the Castelnuovo dell’Abate sector.

The winery name and that of one of its lieux-dits, Le Ragnaie, refers to an old hunting device; a wide net used to catch birds. The word ragno means spider in Italian, hence the idea of catching prey in a net. The estate is organic and focused on the biodiversity of its habitats. Oak forests, olive groves, and a small lake surround its winery vineyards.

The winemaking style at Le Ragnaie is very restrained. After destemming and rigorous sorting, the grapes are fermented in concrete vats with natural yeasts. Riccardo Campinoti refers to this process as a “long, slow infusion on skins”. After a month or so, the wines are transferred to 25 hectolitre Slavonian oak vats and French oak barriques from the Allier.

The Rosso di Montalcino matures for nine months, while the Brunello di Montalcino tier wines age for anywhere from 36 to 48 months. Campinoti doesn’t produce any Riserva bottlings. Though several of his cuvées qualify, he prefers the flexibility of varying ageing durations from one vintage to the next, depending on the growing conditions of each site.

Sitting down to a meal and tasting of recent vintages with Riccardo Campinoti was a one of the highlights of my spring calendar. See my tasting notes below.

 Le Ragnaie Troncone 2021, IGT Toscana – 90pts. VW

The Troncone cuvée is a declassified red from the Montalcino area, sourced from a site above the appellation’s previous 600 metre altitude limit.  Like all of Le Ragnaie’s wines, Troncone is fermented with natural yeast. Ageing lasts less than a year, in large, neutral Slavonian casks.

Excellent value for the price, with its vibrant red currant, strawberry, and floral accents. The palate is fresh and medium in body, with a pleasantly chalky texture, and hints of bitter almond that refresh the finish. Very easy-drinking.

Where to Buy: $20.25 (SAQ code: 13432515)

 Le Ragnaie Rosso di Montalcino 2019 – 89pts. PW

The 2019 Rosso di Montalcino is youthful and fragrant, with notes of red cherry, rose, and balsamic hints on the nose. The palate is lively, medium-bodied, and firm with refreshing minty nuances on the finish. Needs time to unwind or a short spell in a decanter to open up further.

Where to Buy: $47.95 (private import, Bambara Selection)

 Le Ragnaie Brunello di Montalcino 2017 – 93pts. LW

The Le Ragnaie Brunello di Montalcino is a blend of all the properties vineyard. Each plot is vinified separately and then blended at the end of three years’ ageing in botti and barrel. In the hot 2017 vintage, the cooler north-facing plots were primarily allocated to this wine to ensure sufficient freshness. Grapes from warmer areas were blended into the Rosso.

Attractive notes of dried orange peel, tart red fruit, and hints of tar play across the nose. The palate is firm and weighty, with a slightly warming finish despite fresh acidity throughout. Finishes with fine grained tannins and lingering savoury, earthy nuances. 

Where to Buy: $90.00 (SAQ code: 15051556)

 Le Ragnaie Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Vecchia 2017 – 96pts. LW

The old vine cuvée is sourced from Le Ragnaie’s oldest vineyards, planted in 1968. The plot is located in front of the cellar at the lofty heights of 600 metres altitude. Prior to 2016, this was the upper limit for the Brunello di Montalcino appellation – on the brink of being too cool for quality wine. Now, producers are increasingly planting at higher altitudes.

Initially discreet, the 2017 is hugely complex upon aeration with notes of truffle, ripe blue fruit, almond essence, talc, and Provençal herbs. The palate has a very defined, sinewy quality about it. This is a bold, fresh, elegant red wine to sip slowly savouring each glass.

Where to Buy: $139.50 (sadly sold out)

 Le Ragnaie Brunello di Montalcino 2018 – 92pt. LW

The 2018 growing season was a challenge for many estates, with spells of cool, rainy weather. Bookended by hot, powerful years, the best wines of the 2018 vintage are prized for their very pretty, lifted aromatics and overall elegance. This is an earlier drinking vintage overall.

Vivid notes of cassis, red plum, wild herbs, and almond essence feature on the nose. The palate is brisk and full-bodied, with good depth of flavour, and fine, powdery tannins. Vibrant red and blue fruit mingles with refreshing herbal notes on the finish.

Where to Buy: $97.00 (100 cs/6 coming soon to LA SAQ)

 Le Ragnaie Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Vecchia 2018 – 94pts. LW

The Vigna Vecchia 2018 has a lovely, perfumed nose of ripe red cherry, strawberry, and plum with underlying layers of violets and hints of marzipan. Tangy red fruit flavours give a really lively character to the palate. Initially satiny in texture, with a highly glossy, polished feel; tapers to ripe yet dense, muscular tannins. Needs two to three years to soften and unfurl.

Where to Buy: $150.50 (40cs/6 coming soon to La SAQ)

 Le Ragnaie Brunello di Montalcino “Casanovina Montosoli” 2018 – 96pts. LW

Montosoli is a hill in the northern part of the Brunello di Montalcino appellation. It is considered one of the region’s best “cru” growing areas. The vineyard is located at 300 metre altitude on mainly galestro soils (aka a rocky soil composed of silt and clay-marl with layers of limestone; excellent drainage).

This is a hugely expressive and complex red, brimming with ripe and dried red fruit. Upon aeration, layer upon layer of sour cherry, floral nuances, blood orange, eucalyptus, and barnyard hints emerge. The palate is powerful and very fresh, with hugely concentrated mid-palate, and firm tannins that frame the long finish nicely. Lots of staying power. Age for 10 years +.

Where to Buy: $180 (private imports, Bambara Sélection) 

 Le Ragnaie Brunello di Montalcino “Petroso” 2016 – 97pts. LW

This northwest facing one-hectare plot sits at 380 metres altitude, on shallow, rocky soils. These elements give a lot of lift and mineral tension to the Petroso wines. The vineyard is situated near the town of Montalcino and is one of the area’s oldest vineyard sites.

From the incredible 2016 vintage, the Le Ragnaie Petroso does not disappoint. The nose is incredibly complex, with heady aromas of rose, peony, dried orange peel, cherry, talc, and underlying savoury notes. The palate is weighty yet beautifully balanced, with a lifted freshness, and fine-grained tannins. Long, multi-layered finish. Drinking well now, but with the power to age another 10 years or more.

Where to Buy: Sold out 

This Le Ragnaie Brunello di Montalcino piece is re-printed (with permission) from my article written for Good Food Revolution. If you want to learn more about artisanal food, wine, beer and spirits, check out their excellent website.

Education Reviews Wines

Where did all the Santorini White Wine Go?

Posted on June 6, 2023
Island of Santorini

I recently attended a tasting of impressive Santorini white wine. The Assyrtiko grape had fallen off my radar recently and I was glad to be reacquainted with the crisp, steely, mineral-laced style typical to this Greek volcanic island.

Given the trends among more involved wine enthusiasts, towards sustainably produced wines, indigenous varieties, “authentic” wine regions, and lighter, more vibrant wines, I would have thought that Santorini white wines would be rising in popularity.

A few years back, Assyrtiko white wines – from Santorini and across Greece – flooded my local wine shops each summer. I regularly had one chilling in my fridge. A quick search of SAQ and LCBO offerings showed me why I had forgotten Santorini’s signature grape. They are all gone.

Santorini’s Low Yields of Old Vine White Wines

Santorini is an island in the southern Aegean Sea, some 200 kilometres southeast of mainland Greece. In 1650 B.C., Santorini experienced one of the largest volcanic eruptions ever documented. The island is part of the Hellenic Volcanic Arc, one of the most significant volcanic fields in Europe – still very much active today.

Santorini’s soils are a mix of lava, volcanic ash, and pumice stone. The lack of clay and thus organic matter provides a barrier against many pests and diseases, most notably phylloxera. As such, the island’s vines are own-rooted, with a significant number of venerable old vines.

The climate is hot and very dry. Despite this, vineyards are not irrigated. Humidity from sea breezes is absorbed by the volcanic soils. The intensity of the winds that buffet the island is too much for a trellised vineyard. Vines are therefore trained in a unique spiral, whereby vine canes are “woven” into a basket shape with the grapes growing inside this protective shield.

Leading Santorini wine producer, Santo Wines, explains that “the bigger the basket, the older the plant, with some of them boasting a root system more than 200 years old”. This ground level basket training system, called Kouloura, means back-breaking labour that can only be accomplished by hand.

The combination of a hot, dry, windy climate, and kouloura vine training, equates to very low yields. Many growers indicate a mere 10 – 20 hectolitres/ hectare harvest level. Put in perspective, this is far less than yields derived from Grand Cru Bourgogne plots. Combine this with the rough estimate given to me of 1500 hectares total acreage for Santorini and you quickly realize how little wine is produced annually.

The Unique Flavour of Santorini’s Signature Grape

No photo description available.
Photo credit: Wines of Greece (Kouloura trained Assyrtiko vine)

While most varieties of Vitis vinifera are happiest in Mediterranean climates, the particularly dry, windy conditions of Santorini would be inhospitable to many. Happily, the region found its perfect grape thousands of years ago: the white variety, Assyrtiko.

According to Wines of Greece, Santorini boasts Assyrtiko vineyards that date back 3500 years. Assyrtiko thrives in Santorini’s dry, volcanic soils. Despite the heat, Assyrtiko maintains vibrant, high acidity as the grape matures. It is not uncommon to taste Assyrtiko wines at over 14% alcohol with a level of crisp, refreshing acidity that belies their evident ripeness.

Santorini white wines are rarely overtly fruity. Assyrtiko tends toward an earthier, wet stone or oyster shell type minerality on the nose. The grape’s ripeness presents itself more on the palate, in its weighty structure, layered texture, and slight phenolic (tannic) edge.

Of course, the island also produces leaner, fruitier styles of Assyrtiko – often from younger vines or less favourable vineyard sites, but given its small production, more and more producers are focusing on premium Assyrtiko wines, of the former style.

Assyrtiko wines are often unoaked, though in line with a move toward more premium winemaking, many producers are experimenting with longer ageing, extended lees contact, and carefully managed oak ageing.  Nykteri is the name given to Santorini dry white wines, left to hang longer on the vines, with a short period of skin contact in the winery, and a period of barrel ageing.

The island also makes very limited quantities of stunning Vinsanto. The grapes for these luscious, sweet wines are left to partially desiccate in the sun for a couple of weeks before a long, slow fermentation. After a few years of barrel ageing, they are an amber coloured liquid ambrosia.

So why has all the Santorini White Wine Disappeared?

The Santorini white wines that featured on wine store end aisles five years ago all sat at an “entry premium” dollar value in the high teens to low twenties. The labour involved and low yields meant that these wines were ludicrously under priced and not a sustainable way forward for the island’s producers.  However, when prices were raised, sales slowed, and the listings were dropped.

A while back, I interviewed Jermaine Stone, hip hop artist turned fine wine auction director, now owner of wine importing and consultancy firm, Cru Luv Selections. We were chatting about perceived wine value from one region to another and compared with other luxury goods.

Stone gave examples of teenagers saving up for Yeezy sneakers they know they will outgrow or a middle-income worker shelling out on a Balenciaga handbag.  Few regions have managed this feat of creating a luxury aura around their wines. “People have the money. They just don’t have the reverence for the product” according to Stone. “If they don’t think it’s special, they won’t want it”.

With yields as low as they are, it isn’t necessarily a bad thing that Santorini white wine sales are no longer focused on volume-driven outlets like monopoly wine stores. As the quality rises, the wines deserve a hand-selling approach built around creating that necessary reverence. But who will step forward as the region’s champion among Canada’s sommeliers and fine wine buyers? Only time will tell…

Santo Wines, Santorini
Photo credit: Santo Wines

A Handful of recently tasted Interesting Santorini White Wines

Domaine Sigalas Santorini 2022 – 92pts.

Discreet green citrus, wild herbal, and flinty aromas feature on the nose. The palate invigorates with its high, lip-smacking acidity, chalky texture, and lingering salinity. Light and dry with lots of verve, this 100% Assyrtiko is fermented stainless steel and aged for three months, with regular lees stirring.

Gaia Wines “Thalassitis” Santorini 2021 – 90pts.

Sourced from sixty-year-old Assyrtiko vineyards. Earthy, wet stone hints mingle with fragrant yellow apple and apricot aromas. These ripe fruited notes give way to tangy citrus flavours on the palate. Racy and medium weight, with pleasant grapefruit pith bitters that lift the finish.

Santo Wines Santorini Assyrtiko 2022 – 89pts.

Sixty- to eighty-year-old vines, grown at 400 metres altitude. Macerated six hours on skins before fermenting in stainless steel and brief ageing. Light-bodied, with nervy flavours of lime, gooseberry, and earthy minerals. Piercing acidity and a taut structure give this very dry wine a tingly, electric sensation on the palate.

Estate Argyros Cuvee Monsignori Santorini 2020 – 94pts.

Venerable old vines (estimated at 200 years in age), fermented with wild years and aged for ten months on fine lees in stainless steel tanks. Subtle, yet highly attractive white floral, flinty, smoky nuances on the nose. Initially silky on the palate, building up to a powerful structural crescendo. Savoury and saline, with a long finish of refreshing, grapefruit pith bitters.

Gaia Santorini Wild Ferment 2022 – 91pts.

Seventy- to eighty-year-old vines. Native yeast fermentation in stainless steel, oak, and acacia barrels, followed by twelve months’ ageing. Reminiscent of a Graves white Bordeaux nose. The palate is full-bodied, with bracing acidity and a creamy mid-palate. Juicy flavours of apricots and nectarines balance the hints of toasty, spiced oak nicely. Very powerful. Hold for one to two years or decant.

Santo Wines Nykteri 2021 – 90pts.

85% Assyrtiko, blended with secondary white grapes Athiri and Aidani. Fifty-year-old vines. Blend is aged six months in French oak foudres. Pretty aromas of white flowers, beeswax, wet stone, and preserved lemon play across the nose. Very youthful on the palate with its firm acidity, structure, and tannins. Hints of juicy apple flavours emerge with aeration. Needs time to soften.

Sigalis Santorini Barrel 2021 91pts.

Aged in French oak barrels (10% new) for eight months, this 100% Assyrtiko wine is sourced from selected blocks of sixty year+ aged plots across the island. Complex notes of ripe stone fruit mingle with wild herbs, spring blossoms, and exotic spice on the nose. The palate is rounded and fleshy, lifted by brisk acidity that accentuates lingering salty hints on the finish.

This “Santorini White Wine” piece is re-printed (with permission) from my article written for Good Food Revolution. If you want to learn more about artisanal food, wine, beer and spirits, check out their excellent website.

Education Life Reviews Wines

It’s Time for Serious Rosé Wine…

Posted on April 24, 2023
Rosé wine glasses, Vins de Provence

Elizabeth Gabay MW is one of the world’s foremost experts on rosé wines. She is the author of two major reference guides, Rosé: Understanding the Pink Wine Revolution and Rosés of Southern France. I recently had the pleasure of chatting with Gabay about what’s new in serious rosé wine (aka the world beyond the pale, poolside pink wines that flood our wine store shelves each spring). 

What do you find are the most interesting trends in the world of rosé wines?

I think one of the big problems when we talk about premium rosé trends is, it’s like talking about trends in cru classé Bordeaux or Domaine Romanée Conti. It is such a small percentage of rosé production. 90% of rosé that I taste is aiming at the same pale, dry, bland commercial style.

Though, where serious rosé wine is concerned, a small contingent of producers are experimenting. They are looking at things like the porosity of cement or amphora to minimize reductive character. They’re looking at different barrels to soften tannins. I’m working with a rosé vinified in acacia.

So, there is that happening. And then on the other side, there is the natural wine movement.

Is natural wine playing an important role in rosé wine?

I think natural winemakers are incredibly important for the rosé category because you’ve got people who are breaking down the rules. They’re doing things like solera rosé, much more spontaneous fermentation, and so on.

Last week I tasted a Greek Moschofilero “rosé” for Decanter. It is basically a gris coloured grape which spends a week on the skins and turns a shade of dark pink, but it has all the texture of a skin contact white wine.

We tasted a rosé from Uruguay which was 50% red and 50% white grapes blended together to make a rosé. It does all its fermentation on the skins, so is it an orange wine? A red? A white? Is it rosé? It’s a sort of fusion.

These wines only represent about 2% of rosé production, but I find them really exciting.

What do you like most about them?

Personally, I really like funky rosé. I am looking for the Picasso, I’m not looking for the pretty picture. I’m looking for a wine that is going to challenge me. It may not be yacht worthy, but if it has made me sit up and think, I am happy.

For me, texture is quite an important element for serious rosé wine. This is why cement or oak are quite good, or a bit of skin contact. I love spontaneous fermentation on rosé. One reason you won’t get it in bulk stuff is that they want the rosé to be ready for the en-primeur market in January. That rush to get the new vintage in market by Easter is very destructive on rosé.

As natural wine becomes more mainstream, do you think we will see more rosé producers embracing a lower interventionist style?

It’s not really hitting rosé in a major way yet because too many people see rosé as swimming pool wine so why would you bother doing anything funky with it? It’s almost as though its very success has killed off creativity.

At present, the premium rosé people aren’t talking to the natural people, so we’ve got these different branches splitting off. I would like premium rosé producers to take off their blinkers and have the confidence to say, you know what we could actually learn from each other.

Is this lack of confidence driven by consumers? Are people simply not interested in drinking more diverse rosé styles? Or more expensive rosés?

I think this is a major problem with rosé and it is something I am trying to work with. If you look at restaurant wine lists, there is a huge selection of white and red wines. They don’t do that for rosé. The trade is not showing consumers how they can branch out or move up in the rosé sector.  Rosé is between 10 and 50% of sales, depending on country and time of year. Why should it only be one or two options on a restaurant wine list?

Even if someone went to a Michelin starred restaurant and wanted to drink rosé, they wouldn’t have more than a few, quite similar choices, none of them of the quality level expected in such a restaurant.

This is a very good point. Where do you think we could see increased diversity in rosé wines? You mentioned some of the winemaking experimentation that is happening. What about grape varieties? I spoke to a Provence winery last week who felt the only truly great grape for rosé is Grenache…

Every big producer in Southern France feels this way and I absolutely don’t agree. It is as though you interviewed a Burgundy producer who said, you know what, the only grape that makes fine red wine is Pinot Noir. This is blinkered thinking.

Grenache is not the only great variety to make good rosé. It is a great variety that makes rosé within a specific style. One of the big problems is that Grenache oxidises really easily, so producers tend to make it using a 100% reductive method. That means fermenting dead cold with cultured yeasts that give a grapefruit character. Is that the best rosé in the world, really? Absolutely not.

There are plenty of excellent rosé grapes: Negroamaro from Puglia, Grenache blended with Tempranillo as they do in Rioja, Xinomavro, Blaufränkisch. They all make great rosé.

Do you see any countries that could be real competitors for France in terms of having a strong identity linked with rosé winemaking?

There are lots and lots of excellent rosé producers around the world but there is no one with the same cohesion as Provence. That is why they are so successful. For 30 years they’ve had a very cohesive marketing policy. They’ve created their identity. And they’ve stuck to it.

We don’t get a lot of rosés from South Africa, Australia, New Zealand, or California in Europe so I can’t comment there. However, I taste widely across Europe and so many regions are struggling not to make a Provence style rosé. I ask them to send examples that aren’t Provence imitations, and they really have a problem there. Tavel is really the only rosé-based region that is sticking to its individual style and even there, there is some dispute on the direction the appellation is taking.

There is a growing group of top rosé estates in Rioja, but we’re talking about 10 wineries. There is fantastic rosé in places like Greece and Austria as well, but it is isolated producers, and their heart isn’t in it.

Ben (Bernheim, co-author of Rosés of Southern France) likes to ask wineries making good rosé, “if there was a fire, which vines would you save, the red wine grapes or the rosé”? It is always the red. It’s a bit sad really.

Having said all of that, I am very excited by the high quality of roses that are increasingly being produced. So, it’s not a negative thing, it is just that there is a lot more work to actually bring it together.

Elizabeth Gabay MW

Five serious rosé wines on Elizabeth Gabay’s radar right now…

  1. Tête de Cuvée, Château Maissy, Tavel
  2. Clos Cibonne, Côtes de Provence
  3. Ekato Moschofilero, Ktima Troupis, Greece
  4. Giana Masciarelli Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo, Italy
  5. Rosato Reserva, Quinta da Cuca, Douro, Portugal

This “Serious Rosé Wine” piece is re-printed (with permission) from my article written for Good Food Revolution. If you want to learn more about artisanal food, wine, beer and spirits, check out their excellent website.

Education Producers Reviews

What Next for Loire Valley Wine? Organic, Biodynamic, Natural Beginnnings.

Posted on March 21, 2023
Domaine Luneau Papin Vineyards

Three Loire winemakers gathered in a buzzy Montréal bar on Wednesday night. The event was fashionably informal. A pop-up tasting in a cool, low-key spot dripping with tuque-clad, tattooed ambiance. Retail staff from SAQ stores across the city had come in droves to taste the wines.

Having listened to wine event organizers lament a rising trend of poor attendance, I was heartened to see such a packed room. The crowd was young, knowledgeable, and evidently captivated by the wines. A world away from dismal media reports of Gen Z drinkers spurning wine for canned cocktails.

The vignerons hail from three distinct areas of the Loire: Domaine Luneau-Papin, Muscadet producers from the Pays Nantais, Domaine Pellé from the Centre Loire appellation of Menetou-Salon, and Domaine Sérol on the eastern foothills of the Massif Central, in the Côte Roannaise.

While their soils, topography, climate influences, and grapes are highly distinct, all three estates have a shared vision – not only for organic and biodynamic farming practices, but for how they see the future of their wine region.

The Loire has long been a hot bed for terroir-focused, innovative wine producers. Nicolas Joly is often cited as an early pioneer in this movement. His tireless and vocal championing of biodynamic viticulture was a powerful boon to the region as a whole. Joly’s books and his work at Coulée de Serant linked the Loire, by association, to greener, more sustainable vineyard practices.

Despite the Loire’s challenging meso-climates, with their ever-present threats of frost, hail, and damp weather, the number of estates adopting organic and biodynamic practices is noteworthy. The desire to experiment, push boundaries, and explore terroir expression is another hallmark of the Loire.

Spraying biodynamic preparations. Photo credit: Domaine Pellé.

Natural wines are made in every corner of France today. Beaujolais’ Gang of Four might get the credit for earliest adopters of sulphur-free, low intervention winemaking but the Loire came on hot and heavy in its wake.

In 1999, Pierre and Catherine Breton organized the first natural wine focused fair: La Dive Bouteille. The event was held in a Bourgueil cellar, with 40 or so local natural wine producers. Over twenty years later, the event remains the largest natural wine fair, bringing together over 200 producers from around the globe.

The Loire holds many advantages for young winemakers starting out. The vineyard land is far more affordable in areas like the Anjou, Roanaise, and Auvergne than many other viticultural zones in France. There are no age old classifications or quality hierarchies to contend with. And the inspiration to follow in the footsteps of trailblazing producers is a powerful draw.

The road is not without significant challenges though. “It hasn’t been easy” admitted Marie Luneau, of Domaine Luneau-Papin, over a glass of wine later that evening. When Luneau and her husband took over his family’s estate in the late 2000s, Muscadet was in crisis.

Pierre-Marie and Marie Luneau. Photo credit: Domaine Luneau-Papin.

Saddled with a reputation for cheap and cheerful supermarket wine, the region struggled to get buyers and consumers to accept price increases. Several vintages of devastating frosts, rising production costs, and increased global competition for entry-level white wine drove Muscadet’s mass markets into the ground.

The region that spanned over 13 000 hectares in the 1980s shrunk by one third in the ensuing decades. In the face of this dire situation, it took producers like Luneau-Papin, with serious passion and grit to remain steadfast.

In the late 2000s, while many Muscadet growers were walking away from the industry, Domaine Luneau-Papin converted to organic viticulture. Marie also co-founded L’Association des Vignes de Nantes to join forces with like-minded growers in promoting their quality-focused Muscadet wines.

Though Marie is (rightfully) proud of the nervy, textural wines the estate is crafting today, and the success they have found, she is quick to dispel any romantic notions of their ascendancy. “We worked non-stop for years” she explained. “I wonder if my children will even want to follow in our footsteps after seeing that”.

While Nantais growers like Domaine Luneau-Papin were fighting to revitalize Muscadet’s image, Carine and Stéphane Sérol had another concern…a complete lack of image for Côte Roannaise wines. Stéphane took over the estate from his father in 1996 and immediately set about making changes.

The couple uprooted lesser vineyards, selected higher altitude granite-rich sites for new plantings, and focused their attentions on their local variety: Gamay St-Romain. This unique Gamay clone thrives at higher elevations making structured, peppery wines. Interest for Domaine Sérol’s distinctive wines has come slowly but surely.

Gamay Saint Romain tank. Photo credit: Domaine Sérol.

Building renown has also been a long game for Domaine Pellé. The long shadow of Sancerre cast Menetou-Salon in a second tier role that quality-minded growers like Paul-Henry Pellé have worked hard to cast off. Paul-Henry took on responsibility for his family’s estate at a young age. After an inspiring apprenticeship with Hubert Lamy, he knew he wanted to adopt biodynamic farming.

Paul-Henry admits that it took time to get it right. An initial attempt at immediate, full-scale biodynamic practices – making his own preparations, applying all tenets of the new system, while running the estate proved too much. He realized that he would need to transition from organic to biodynamic over time.

Over nearly two decades, Paul-Henry has honed his craft, lowering yields, working towards certification, and transitioning to micro-vinifications in seasoned oak vats and casks. The wines are a testament to his efforts: racy, saline, and complex.

As the crowd eventually thinned and the lights grew dim, we sat at the bar sipping cocktails, musing about how far the Loire, and its top producers have come. The hard work of the current generation has garnered admiring audiences across the globe, as the night’s event proved. The next generation may not have an easy path in the face of increasingly extreme climate conditions, but the acceptance won by their predecessors will certainly set them up for easier success.

This “Loire Valley Wine” piece is re-printed (with permission) from my article written for Good Food Revolution. If you want to learn more about artisanal food, wine, beer and spirits, check out their excellent website.

Reviews Wines

Roberto Voerzio, Barolo: The Man of La Morra

Posted on February 19, 2023

It is hard to image a man prouder of his origins than Roberto Voerzio. Born and raised in the Barolo sub-zone of La Morra, Voerzio knew from a young age that he wanted to make wine. Not just any wine though; fine wine to rival the likes of Giovanni Conterno and Bruno Giacosa.

In a recent tasting together, Roberto Voerzio shared the exacting methods he has employed over the years to reach the top echelon of Barolo winemakers. Voerzio speaks simply with a twinkle in his eye. He isn’t boastful, but there is no false modesty either.

Voerzio established his winery in 1986 with two hectares of vineyards in La Morra. Today, the estate spans 35-hectares of owned and rented vineyards, with notable holdings in La Morra crus such as La Serra, Brunate, Cerequio, Rocche dell’Annunziata, Fossati, and Sarmassa (in neighbouring Barolo).

A keen observer, Voerzio travels frequently to regions like Bordeaux and Bourgogne to analyze the viticultural methods of top estates. “I like to visit right before harvest” he explained. “The vineyard work is finished and you get a real sense of how successful the estate has been”. By this, he refers to the vine’s balance and ripeness of its fruit.

Roberto Voerzio La Morra Vineyards

Roberto Voerzio La Morra vineyard views (photo credit: Roberto Voerzio)

Voerzio determined early on that a high-density vineyard model would produce the best quality fruit. Vines planted in closer proximity tend to produce fewer bunches, giving a smaller yield of more concentrated, flavourful grapes. In his prime vineyard sites, Voerzio plants at a density of 9,000 to 11,000 vines per hectare; well over double the average for Piedmont.

From planting to winter pruning, and throughout the growing season, Voerzio works tirelessly to achieve his desired, low crop level. He leaves just five to eight buds during the initial pruning and thins the crop twice during the summer.

“In cooler, less sunny seasons, I start green harvesting in early July to ensure the grapes ripen fully. In warmer years, I wait a few more weeks” he says. A second round of grape thinning occurs mid-August, to decrease the size of each cluster, cutting the bottom portion to concentrate richness of flavour among the upper grapes. For top crus, the yield at harvest is often as low as 500 to 700 grams per plant.

This is obviously not the most economical way to make wine, Voerzio admits with a chuckle. However, he says with a widening grin, “I do it for the glory of the wine”.

Roberto Voerzio has no organic certifications, but his vineyards are cultivated without chemical entrants. Cow manure is used to fertilize vines as needed. No herbicides, fungicides, or pesticides are employed.

Roberto Voerzio La Morra vineyard yield

Low yields in Roberto Voerzio La Morra vineyards (photo credit: Roberto Voerzio)

In the cellar, Voerzio’s wines are made via spontaneous fermentation with native yeast. Alcoholic fermentation lasts 15 to 30 days in tank. The Nebbiolo and Barbera cuvées are then racked to a mix of seasoned Slovenian oak botti of varying sizes, and a small portion of French oak. Sulphur levels are less than half the regulated dose. The wines are bottled unfined and unfiltered.

ROBERTO VOERZIO BAROLO DEL COMMUNE DI LA MORRA 2016 – 93pts LW

This is something of a “house” Barolo for Voerzio, made from a blend of five cru vineyards, namely La Serra, Fossati, Cerequio, La Rocche dell Annunziata, and Case Nere. La Morra is often described as the most elegant and approachable of Barolo’s sub-zones, with sandy, clay-rich Tortonian soils.

Aromas of wild rosemary and thyme give way to red currant, plum, dried citrus, and wildflowers on the nose. The palate is full-bodied, yet sinewy in structure, with lip-smacking acidity, and vibrant red fruit, herbal flavours. Finishes very fresh and precise.

Where to Buy: $163.50 (small allocation of 2018 vintage at the SAQ)

ROBERTO VOERZIO BARBERA D’ALBA “POZZO DELL’ ANNUNZIATA” 2017 -95pts PW

Barbera is the most widely grown grape in the Piedmont region. I have had many easy-drinking, great value Barbera wines in my time, and a handful of serious stand outs but nothing of this calibre. The Pozzo dell’Annunziata cuvée really shows what the grape is capable on the right site, at low yields, in the right hands.

The 2017 vintage is redolent with dark cherries and plum aromas, over layers of prune, woodsmoke, dark chocolate, licorice, and cedar. Juicy and ripe fruited on the palate, with a fleshy, full-bodied core, and velvety finish. Savoury flavours mingle with plum and dried herbs on the very persistent finish.

Where to Buy: $48.50 (sadly sold out…)

ROBERTO VOERZIO BAROLO “FOSSATI” 2015 – 97pts. LW

Fossati lies on the western side of La Morra, adjacent to the Case Nere and La Serra crus, at 350m altitude. The soils are stoney and light, with clay layers. The vines are particularly deep rooted here, stretching down to ten metres in places. Voerzio describes Fossati wines as deep in colour, with pronounced tannins, and vivid aromatics.

Successive waves of ripe dark and red fruit, wild berries, barnyard hints, dried orange peel, and cedar waft from the glass of this seductive 2015 Fossati. The palate is initially understated, with a supple, suave quality that broadens and deepens on the mid-palate. A lively hum of acidity vibrates through the wine, complimenting the firm, chalky tannins and lifting the finish.

Where to Buy: $462.50 (small allocation of 2018 vintage at the SAQ )

ROBERTO VOERZIO BAROLO “CEREQUIO” 2012 – 96pts. LW

Cerequio is surrounded by equally prestigious La Morra cru vineyards on the western side of La Morra. The hillside plantings sit at 300 metres altitude on a bed of white clay over blueish marl sub soils. According to Voerzio, its wines are very round, elegant, and ethereal in nature with lively red fruit flavours.

The 2012 vintage is fragrant and complex, with dried fruit and dried rose petal aromas, over hints of truffle and eucalyptus. Initially rich and velvety on the palate, tapering to ripe, yet still somewhat grippy tannins. A concentrated core of minty, dried red fruit, and earthy flavours linger long on the finish.

Where to Buy: $462.50 (small allocation of 2018 vintage at the SAQ)

This “Roberto Voerzio Barolo” piece is re-printed (with permission) from my article written for Good Food Revolution. If you want to learn more about artisanal food, wine, beer and spirits, check out their excellent website.

Reviews

How will Climate Change Affect Cool Climate Wine Regions? Only Time will Tell…

Posted on January 22, 2023
Meursault Vineyards - Jacky Blisson MW

Atmospheric rivers, bomb cyclones, polar vortexes, cold drops… As increasingly erratic weather patterns combine with rising temperatures, prolonged drought episodes, and the like, the realities of climate change have never been more stark.

Grape growers, like all farmers, are dealing with a constantly shifting playing field, forcing them to adapt every season. Viticultural and oenological researchers are working feverishly to find solutions as problems continue to multiply.

Drought-resistant rootstocks, polygenic disease resistant hybrids, canopy management techniques to better shade fruit against sunburn, all manners of cutting-edge technology to track temperature, light, humidity, and water availability, lower alcohol-producing yeast strains, etc.

These are just a few of the many avenues being explored to maintain the viability of our major vineyard regions. And even if these efforts meet with long-term success, how long will the wine styles we currently know, and love remain recognizable?

Not so long ago it seemed like something of a boon to see rising temperatures in traditional cool climate regions like the Mosel Valley and Bourgogne. The need to memorize vintage charts to avoid lean, green, and let’s face it…often pretty mean wines from cold, wet growing seasons has all but vanished.

The need to chaptalize or rely on healthy doses of süssreserve to bolster light vintages is no longer such a vital crutch. On the other end of the spectrum, techniques to protect fruit in overly hot vintages have also improved. In Burgundian cellars, these ripe wines are also being handled with far greater elegance, with gentler extraction and far more discreet oak ageing than was the norm in the early 2000s.

Until recently, it wasn’t uncommon to hear wine critics describe climate change as a “blessing” for these cooler climes. Though I doubt many producers in these regions would agree looking forward to projections for the next thirty to fifty years to come.

The renown of wines from places like the Mosel and Bourgogne is built on their rare ability to combine a silky, ethereal elegance with underlying power and impressive ageability. Their vivid flavours, vibrant acidity, and overall poise stems – in part – from the long, slow, steady ripening that was once a hallmark feature of these climates.

Recently, I received a series of Bourgogne samples in the 14% to 14.5% alcohol range. While velvety and generously fruity, they lacked the tangy vibrancy of fruit, and fine-grained tannic presence that – for me – defines good red Bourgogne. In fact, I wasn’t at all sure that I would have picked out the region (or even the grape!) in a blind tasting.

With the advent of lower intervention winemaking, rising temperatures are all the more cause for concern. At higher potential alcohol and pH levels, contamination from errant bacteria or yeasts is a far greater threat.

For many, these funkier, more savoury flavours represent an appealing new layer of complexity…but at what cost? If we need to drink these wines within the first year or two of existence, before they fall apart, we lose all the pleasure of seeing the aromas and structure evolve.

Only time will tell how greatly our rapidly changing climate and ever evolving winemaking practices will affect traditional cool climate growing regions. In the meantime, I will continue to seek out and champion the many skillful producers successfully walking the fine line of bright, balanced fruit and freshness.

Here are just a handful of names that have impressed in recent tastings:

Agnès Paquet, Bourgogne (Côte d’Or)
Based in the tucked away Côte de Beaune hamlet of Meloisey, Agnès makes lithe, elegant wines with bright fruit and silky tannins. Her Auxey-Duresses red, fermented with native yeasts, partial whole-cluster, and aged in seasoned oak is divine.

Claudie Jobard, Bourgogne (Côte Chalonnaise)
Claudie Jobard comes from a long line of growers and winemakers in Rully. Her father was a reputed pépiniériste (vine nursery man). Her Rully white wines are proof positive that this once humble appellation can make wines with serious body, tension, and verve.

La Soeur Cadette, Bourgogne (Vézelay)
Now a négociant operation with lively, pure fruited wines from Beaujolais and across Bourgogne, this domaine built its reputation in the small Vézelay wine growing area nestled some 100km northwest of Beaune. Their nervy, incisive low-intervention Chardonnays are always great value.

Famille Dutraive, Beaujolais
Highly regarded Beaujolais winemaker Jean-Louis Dutraive is joined by his three children in the creation of this top notch négociant firm. A recent tasting of their Fleurie Les Déduits 2019 blew me away with its vivid flavours, overall vibrancy, and satiny texture.

Julien Sunier, Beaujolais
The Beaujolais winemaking style of Dijon-native Julien Sunier is often compared to Chambolle-Musigny, which is where he got his start, under Christophe Roumier. Lovely florality, bright flavours, and a lightness of touch that belies the impressive staying power of his Fleurie, Morgon, and Régnié old vine wines.Julien’s brother, Antoine Sunier, is also making very silky, elegant Beaujolais wines that are worth checking out.

This “Future of Cool Climate Wines” piece is re-printed (with permission) from my article written for Good Food Revolution. If you want to learn more about artisanal food, wine, beer and spirits, check out their excellent website.

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Best Beaujolais Wines to Ring in Beaujolais Nouveau Night

Posted on November 17, 2022
best beaujolais wines

From excellent villages cuvées to top crus, the best Beaujolais wines are worth every penny. The Beaujolais Nouveau era may be over but the region has risen from its ashes in spectacular fashion. Scroll down for some fantastic Beaujolais wines to ring in Nouveau night.

There will be no whimsical displays of Beaujolais Nouveau this year. Freight and fuel costs continue to skyrocket. Global wine bottle shortages persist. As a result, this once cheap and oh-so-cheerful red has become an expensive proposition.

And let’s face it, consumer interest has been waning for years. Sommeliers turned their backs long ago. Even in Japan, Beaujolais Nouveau’s most ardent overseas imbibers, support has been steadily falling away for a decade. An estimated doubling of prices in the market may be the final nail in its coffin.

Though Beaujolais Nouveau may be gone from our store shelves in 2022, that doesn’t mean we can’t raise our glasses on Thursday to salute how far the region has come.

New Wines, Ancient Traditions

The idea of imbibing a freshly fermented wine is neither a new concept, nor specific to Beaujolais wines. In ancient Greece, the Athenian festival Anthesteria, in honour of Dionysus, was celebrated with the wine of the recently completed harvest.

This idea of harvest celebrations lingers in France, with nouveau wine releases throughout the country, from Gaillac, to Touraine, to the southern Rhône Valley – though Beaujolais remains the most well-known and widely exported example.

In the 1800s, wine merchants were already buying just fermented Beaujolais to showcase the new vintage to their brasserie and restaurant clients in major surrounding cities. However, it wasn’t until the 1950s that official legislation was past that mandated the third Thursday of November as the official release date for the wines of the vintage.

How Beaujolais Nouveau Took the World by Storm

Beaujolais’ most recognized household name, Georges DuBoeuf, is credited with creating the global craze for Beaujolais Nouveau. By the 1960s, the cafés of Lyon and Paris had already joined in the fun of racing to see who would receive the first shipment of Beaujolais’ new vintage. “Le Beaujolais Nouveau est arrive” became a call to revelers to join in the simple pleasure of sharing the light, fruity wine.

Photo credit: Inter Beaujolais

DuBoeuf worked tirelessly with chefs, sommeliers, and other wine gatekeepers in major markets around the world to extend this tradition. By the 1980s, industrial quantities were being produced. Television ads heralded the arrival of Beaujolais Nouveau in the US, great towers of the stuff appeared in liquor stores across Canada, throughout Europe and beyond.

Perhaps no other export market took to Beaujolais Nouveau, or hung on so long, as Japan. Photos of Japanese merry-makers, bathing in spas overflowing with the wine are popular media images every November.

From Beaujolais Nouveau to Nouvelle… Génération

For a time, as appreciation for the soft, banana-scented Beaujolais fell away, it seemed that region was headed for disaster. Who could take a wine region seriously, who’s major claim to fame was a cheap, quaffing red with zero shelf life? But change was afoot.

The work of Beaujolais’ natural wine pioneers had already begun in the 1980s, under the mentorship of local scientist and winemaker, Jules Chauvet. It would take a further decade for these radical new wines – made without carefully selected yeast strains or protective doses of sulphur – to gain the first timid signs of international interest.

The natural wine movement allowed Beaujolais to re-focus attention on its terroirs and traditional winemaking practices. The merits and distinctions of its ten cru villages were increasingly highlighted with areas like Morgon, Fleurie, and Moulin-à-Vent gaining recognition around the world.

Photo credit: Inter Beaujolais

In 2008, the region began an ambitious soil mapping project that would span nine years. Over 15 000 soil surveys, 1000 soil pits, and 50 field visits were completed. The study led to detailed maps of each Beaujolais appellation, detailing 300 different soil types across the area.

The in-depth knowledge gained from this work has given Beaujolais’ grape growers an incredible tool – informing their decisions on planting, pruning, inter-row, and canopy management in each sector of their vineyards. It is also a great way to communicate terroir – to highlight how different Gamay can taste from one lieu-dit to another.

One Grape, Multiple Expressions

Between its impressive image makeover and the dual trends for natural wines and – more generally – for fresher, lighter, less oak-driven reds, Beaujolais is back in business. The volumes are a far cry from the dizzying heights of the Nouveau days, but a more sustainable quality reputation has been established.

It is a region that is simple for newcomers to get behind. Red wines made exclusively from the Gamay grape makes up 95% of production. Beaujolais can be simplistically summed up as Gamay + granite + temperate climate = light, fresh, low tannin reds with vibrant red fruit and violet notes.

May be an image of tree and nature
Photo credit: Inter Beaujolais

However, for those looking to explore more deeply, the varied topography of gentle hills to vertiginous slopes, myriad soil compositions, numerous meso-climates, and wide variety of winemaking practices yield huge stylistic diversity from one Beaujolais to another.

Here is a mere handful of the best Beaujolais wine producers (in this author’s opinion) for your Beaujolais Nouveau night celebrations: Mee Godard, Famille Dutraive, Antoine Sunier, Julien Sunier, Richard Rottiers, Château Thivin, Marcel Lapierre, Jean Foillard, Domaine des Marrans, Domaine des Chers, Christophe Pacalet.

Favourites from a recent tasting include:

Famille Dutraive Fleurie Les Déduits 2019 – 95pts. PW

Pitch perfect, ready-to-drink Fleurie in a bold yet satiny smooth style ably matched by lively acidity and vivid red berry, cherry, violet, spice aromas. A truly joyous wine with impressive breadth and length. Dangerously easy to drink. Easily one of my coup de coeur Beaujolais for 2022.

Where to buy: SAQ ($42.75)

Antoine Sunier Morgon 2020 – 93pts. PW

Reminiscent of Northern Rhône Syrah with its peppery spice and subtly smoky, meaty undertones, this Morgon is medium in body with complex red and dark fruit flavours. Bright, balanced acidity, sinewy tannins, and lots of finesse. Carafe 30 minutes before serving.

Where to buy: SAQ ($35.50)

Julien Sunier Régnié 2020 – 92pts. PW

A very pretty, fragrant wine (in typical Régnié fashion) with wafts of ripe strawberry, peonies, baked red cherry, and subtly earthy undertones. The palate is light, silky and lifted, with a crisp freshness that lingers through the finish. A very approachable, easy-drinking Beaujolais.

Where to Buy: SAQ ($32.75)

Domaine Mee Godard Beaujolais Villages 2020 – 91pts. PW

Mee Godard is a Morgon producer that I have greatly admired since visiting her domaine in 2018. Her wines are often taut and firmly structured in their youth ageing gracefully over time. This Villages cuvée is not exception; definitely drinking above its origin. Medium in body with attractive blackberry, red cherry, savoury notes, and a velvety mouthfeel tapering to taut yet fine-grained tannins.

Where to Buy: SAQ ($28.55)

Marcel Lapierre Le Beaujolais 2021 – 90 pts. PW

From the challenging 2021 vintage, this “humble” Beaujolais is easy to dismiss as overly lean, tart, or vegetal…which was my first impression. However, over a span of four days I re-tasted regularly and the wine transformed. Still light and crisp, this red revealed layered aromas of cranberry, rhubarb, forest floor, beets, and green peppercorn over time. The palate is taut with finely chiselled tannins. Decant up to an hour before serving.

Where to Buy: SAQ ($29.30)

 Domaine des Marrans Chiroubles Aux Côtes 2020 – 90pts. PW

The Beaujolais cru of Chiroubles boasts the highest elevation and steepest slopes of the region. This south-west facing vineyard is perched at 400 metres altitude, giving a very ripe yet refreshing style of Beaujolais. The 2020 vintage features aromas of baked red berries, hints of pomegranate, and tar. The palate is medium weight, with a rounded structure, and slightly grippy tannins. Great value for the price.

Where to Buy: SAQ ($25.10)

Christophe Pacalet Haru-Ichi Beaujolais Villages Rosé 2021 – 90pts. PW

Rosé is a rarity in Beaujolais, making up just 3% of production so it is fun to see this on our shelves. This ample, deeper hued rosé is hugely enticing, with lovely florality on the nose and pure, tangy rhubarb flavours, underscored by earthy and subtly savoury notes. Lipsmackingly good and very food friendly.

Where to Buy: SAQ ($25.35)

This “Best Beaujolais Wines…” piece is re-printed (with permission) from my article written for Good Food Revolution. If you want to learn more about artisanal food, wine, beer and spirits, check out their excellent website.

Education Reviews Wines

The Wines of Menetou-Salon: Stepping out from Sancerre’s Shadow

Posted on October 19, 2022
The wines of Menetou-Salon

The vineyards of Menetou-Salon lie a mere 20-minute drive southwest of Sancerre. The same highly prized terroir of chalky Kimmeridgian marl runs through both appellations. The same grapes are planted in their sloped vineyards. And yet, Sancerre is revered the world over for its superlative Sauvignon Blanc, while Menetou-Salon is…well…not.

Size is one obvious differentiating factor. The acreage of Sancerre is almost five times that of Menetou-Salon’s modest 647 hectares. Sancerre exports over two-thirds of its wines, whereas the vast majority of Menetou-Salon’s wines are consumed in France.

Star producers from Sancerre have successfully promoted the region’s top terroirs such as Bué or Chavignol; even going so far as to elevate individual vineyard plots, like Monts Damnés and Cul de Beaujeau, to (unofficial) cru status.

The terroir specificities of Menetou-Salon’s ten communes remain little known. However, this may not be the case for long. A growing contingent of innovative, well-regarded winemakers is emerging in Menetou-Salon focused on single commune and vineyard bottlings.

vignoble-ap
Map credit: Menetou-Salon AOC

Near the eastern boundary of Mentou-Salon, lies the village of Morogues. This pretty hamlet is home to Domaine Henry Pellé. Third generation winemaker Paul-Henry Pellé produces a range of incisive, racy Sauvignon Blancs here that easily rival his excellent La Croix au Garde Sancerre.

Morogues marks the highest point of Menetou-Salon. Its hillside vineyards grown almost exclusively on Kimmeridgian marl – sediment formed during the Upper Jurassic period made up of alternating layers of chalky limestone from ancient, fossilized marine creatures, and clay. These soils are prized for their powerfully structured, long-lived expression of Sauvignon Blanc.

The best way to understand the nuances of Morogues is to taste Domaine Pellé’s Morogues cuvée – a blend of seven different hillside vineyards, against his three single vineyard (aka lieux-dits) wines from the same village: Les Blanchais, Le Carroir, and Vignes du Ratier.

Anne & Paul-Henry Pellé. Photo credit: Polaner Selections.

Variations in elevation, orientation, soil depth and composition yield markedly different wines. The sunny, southwest facing Vignes du Ratier plot gives fleshier, more supple wines; whereas the north-eastern exposure and mixed Kimmeridgian marl and flint soils of Les Blanchais give more austere, chiselled Sauvignon Blanc.

Heading west from Morogues, the vineyards of Menetou-Salon form a southward arc sloping more gently as they approach the towns of Parassy and Menetou-Salon. Here, the soils are more heterogenous with pockets of clay, varying compositions of clay-limestone, and veins of flint interspersed with the Kimmeridgian marl.

Domaine Chavet is based in Menetou-Salon. In 2018, this historic 23-hectare estate was acquired by Antoine de la Farge. Trained oenologist and former wine buyer for French wine store chain Nicholas, de la Farge is also a Menetou-Salon native from a family of vignerons at Domaine de l’Ermitage.

De la Farge is both estate owner and négociant, making wine in Menetou-Salon, Pouilly-Fumé, and Sancerre. His goal with Domaine Chavet mirrors that of Pellé – to showcase the distinctive quality and diversity of Menetou-Salon terroir.

Domaine Chavet’s vines are located between Menetou-Salon and Parassy. According to de la Farge, the wines here are generally richer and rounder than Morogues. The estate produces a broad Menetou-Salon blend called La Côte, as well as two lieux-dit whites, Clos de Coquin and Clos des Jentonnes.

  • Antoine de la Farge
  • Domaine Chavet wines

The deeper clay, and more southerly exposure of Clos de Coquin gives a riper, more opulent Sauvignon Blanc, while just one kilometre over, the pure Kimmeridgian soil of the western facing Clos des Jentonnes plot yields a nervy, electric white with lingering salinity.

For a long time, Menetou-Salon was merely considered an affordable alternative to Sancerre. Now, the rise in ambition and excellence is palpable. At a recent Domaine Chavet tasting, Antoine de la Farge outlined his plans for a new, top-quality gravity flow winery – with temperature-controlled stainless steel vinifications followed by extended lees ageing in unlined sandstone amphorae and seasoned oak casks.

De la Farge also spoke highly of his neighbouring winemakers, especially Pellé. He praised his fellow vignerons commitment to sustainable growing practices, and their exacting standards of wine making – many focusing on natural yeasts and low intervention.

Since the turn of the century, the acreage of Menetou-Salon has increased three-fold. As curious oenophiles continue to step off-the-beaten track and local winemakers keep pushing quality ever upward, it will be exciting to see where the appellation goes.

Domaine Chavet Tasting Notes (Montréal Tasting, October 2022)

Chavet “La Côte” Menetou-Salon AOC 2021 – 90pts. PW

La Côte refers to the seven slopeside vineyards that make up this Menetou-Salon blend. The 2021 bottling has attractive currant bud, lemon, grape fruit aromas, underscored by riper hints of guava. The palate is laser-like in its light, linear structure, piercing acidity, and overall poise. Great value for the price. Drink now.

Where to Buy: SAQ ($24.25), LCBO ($22.95)

Domaine Chavet “Clos de Coquin” Menetou-Salon AOC 2020 – 92pts. PW

Pretty white floral notes mingle with lemon, aromatic green herbs, and subtle apricot notes on the 2020 Clos de Coquin cuvée. The palate is crisp and light-bodied, with a silky texture and layers of tangy green and white fruit over hints of green almond. Long, lively finish. Drink now or cellar up to 8 years.

Where to Buy: Inquire with agent AOC & Cie (SAQ specialty order expected in spring 2023; $31.25)

Domaine Chavet “Clos des Jentonnes” Menetou-Salon AOC 2020 – 94pts.

Initially discreet, with vivid aromas of lime, greengage plum, tarragon, and wet stone developing over time. Racy and precise on the palate, with a textural, almost electric hum. Notes of guava, green apple, lemon, and lime unfurl in vibrant succession on the long, mineral finish. Drink now or cellar for up to 10 – 12 years.

Where to Buy: Inquire with agent AOC & Cie

This Wines of Menetou-Salon article was originally written for Good Food Revolution. Want to learn more about artisanal food, wine, beer and spirits? Check out their excellent website.