What happens when you mix philosophy with farming? You get Johan Reyneke — one of South Africa’s true pioneers in organic and biodynamic viticulture.
In my latest YouTube interview, I sit down with Johan in Montreal to talk about his fascinating journey from philosophy student to vineyard labourer, and ultimately, to founder of Reyneke Wines — South Africa’s first certified biodynamic winery.
Johan shares how reading thinkers like Thoreau and Arne Næss — and grappling with the philosophical tensions between development and nature — led him to question the conventional, chemical-heavy farming practices he encountered early on. His solution? A vineyard guided by ethics, ecology, and self-sufficiency.
We dig into the practical side too — from using ducks and cattle as natural pest and weed control, to the challenges of going organic in the early ’90s, when few around him even knew what that meant. Johan also introduces Reyneke’s newly redesigned, lower-carbon-footprint wine packaging — a powerful statement of his ongoing commitment to sustainability.
Whether you’re a wine lover, environmentalist, or just curious about what biodynamic farming actually looks like, Johan’s story is one you won’t want to miss.
And while you’re there, don’t forget to like, comment, and subscribe for more wine stories from inspiring changemakers across the globe.
Let’s be honest—wine terminology can be confusing. In fact, some wine vocabulary is so esoteric and contensious that even connoisseurs argue about its meaning. Whether you’re new to wine or just faking your way through tastings, you’re not alone.
In this 3-part wine education video series, I (Jacky Blisson, Master of Wine) break down the most misunderstood wine tasting terms and explain them in clear, no-nonsense language. If you’ve ever wondered what people really mean when they talk about grippy tannins, or a firm structure, or high volatile acidity, these short videos are for you.
Learn the basics: acidity, body, texture, tannins, and finish—what they are, how to recognize them, and why they matter.
Episode 2: The Fancy-Sounding Jargon
We’re decoding structure, balance, complexity, terroir, and minerality—terms that sound impressive, but often confuse even seasoned wine lovers.
Episode 3: The Sciencey Stuff
Ever heard someone say a wine is “bretty” or that the VA is too high? Discover the science behind oxidation, malolactic fermentation, brettanomyces, and volatile acidity.
If you have a wine term or any other wine education questions that you would like explained, don’t hesitate to write me a comment…and I might just make you a video!
Twenty years ago, when I first started out in the wine trade, organic wines were a rare find. In viticulture classes, I was taught the importance of regular chemical fungicide spraying regimes. Vines were carefully tended to pristine, bare soils with nary a weed in sight. Organic wines were the provenance of a handful of small-scale, premium wineries—or they were PR vehicles for larger producers that, more often than not tasted tart, lean, and vegetal.
Fast forward to today, and it’s a whole different story.
Organic wine has gone from niche to mainstream, with great options at every price point. Consumer demand has played a big role, but so have advances in vineyard management, making organic farming more viable even in regions that once relied heavily on conventional methods.
However, organic doesn’t necessarily equate to environmentally perfect. For most organic wine producers, controlling fungal diseases without synthetic treatments generally means a heavy reliance on copper-based sprays. Studies have shown that excessive copper levels lead to reduced microbial activity and biodiversity in the soil, both of which are crucial for vine health and soil fertility. More frequent tractor passes for organic vineyard maintenance also increase fuel consumption and soil compaction.
For consumers, making ethical wine choices isn’t always straightforward. Labels don’t tell the whole story, and the reality of farming is complex. But, a wealth of research is underway, with the intent of improving organic means of fighting vineyard disease. Though it may be hard to know which producers are genuinely producing wines in the most eco-friendly and sustainable ways, it is gratifying to see so much choice, and to know that, while not perfect today, we are moving toward far greener viticulture.
Last week, I had the chance to taste some of the latest organic releases at the SAQ. From budget-friendly everyday wines to more structured, complex bottles, here are some of my top picks that deliver on both taste and sustainability.
EVERY DAY BARGAINS (Under $17)
Comte Alexandre Pierre Côtes du Rhône Red 2023 – 88pts. VW
Pleasant, everyday Côtes du Rhône red with typical ripe dark fruit, floral, and spiced notes. Medium bodied, with juicy black cherry and plum flavours and a rounded structure. Finishes with slightly rustic tannins, serve with a meal.
Expressive, aromatic nose of stone fruit and floral hints. Fresh, light-bodied and smooth on the palate, with tangy citrus and peachy flavours, and a refreshing hint of bitterness on the finish.
Rocca di Montemassi, Le Focaie Maremma Toscana 2022 – 90pts VW
Quite a restrained Sangiovese, with an earthy brooding nose of dark plum, citrus blossom, and dried herbs. Full-bodied yet not overly powerful, with a dry, chalky texture, savoury notes, and quite fine-grained tannins. Really vibrant for the price.
Domaine Julien Braud, Les Vignes du Bourg, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie 2023 – 91pts. VW
A crisp, vivid Muscadet with lots of tension and precision on the palate. Aromas of spring flowers, ripe apple, and anis, give way to more mineral-focused, savoury flavours . Finishes with a pleasing steely edge that gives a great structural framework.
This uncomplicated Chianti has pretty red plum and cherry notes, with hints of dried flowers. The palate is brisk and lively, with lifted red fruit, medium weight, and subtle, powdery tannins. A fantastic weeknight pizza wine, best slightly chilled.
Highly appealing nose, with layers of blackberry, raspberry, orange peel, and tea leaf. This Cinsault, Mourvèdre blend is really bright on the palate. Quite modern in style, with a lighter weight structure and silkier texture than was once typical for St. Chinian. Finishes with refreshing, subtly herbal tannins.
Domaine Cazes, Rolle in Stone, Côtes Catalanes 2024 – 90pts. PW
The cleverly named “Rolle in Stone” is a Vermentino (aka Rolle) from Southern France. While the grape often gives quite lean, mineral-driven wines this white is all exuberance, with perfumed aromas of yellow stone fruit and tropical hints. The palate is lightbodied, with a firm structure, lots of freshness, and a rounded finish.
Moulin de Gassac, Tèrra, Languedoc AOP 2023 – 92pts PW
A blend of Grenache blanc, Roussanne, and a touch of Rolle with attractive notes of lemongrass, white pepper, apricot, and floral undertones. Fresh, medium bodied and textured on the palate, with a broad mid-palate, and a subtle grip on the finish.
Vintage after vintage, this wine offers consistent good value. The 2023 has an expressive nose of macerated black cherry, blackcurrant and blue fruit, with a touch of clove and subtle gamey undertones. Full-bodied and ample on the palate, combining richness of fruit and fine, firm structure.
How to choose sparkling wines for the holidays in 2024? Every year I get asked for my top picks. Happily, over the past couple of months, I have tasted a wide range of great sparkling wines, at all price points, for every palate preference. Check out my recommendations, tasting notes, and sparkling wine videos below.
Tis the season. Time to stock up on sparkling wines for the holidays. Festive gatherings abound this time of year and nothing sets a merrier tone that a nice bottle of fizz. They also make excellent gifts. After all, who doesn’t want a bottle of bubbly? Nobody…that is who.
Everyone’s needs are different when choosing sparkling wines for holiday gatherings – from budget-friendly options to supply big parties, to top of the line Champagnes for special occasions. And, we all have quite varied tastes. With this in mind, I have tried to make my recommendations as comprehensive as possible. There are categories for more affordable bubblies, mid-range sparkling wines , value Champagnes, and a few top drawer, premium Champagne – in everything from bone dry, to fruitier, natural to more classic styles.
Of course, there are so many other great sparkling wines out there. I would be remiss not to mention the fantastic Champagnes from Laherte, Dhondt-Grellet, and Deutz. Or, the fantastic Crémant wines from the likes of Stéphane Tissot and Domaine Pignier (Jura) or Domaine la Taille au Loups (Loire). We also have many delicious Canadian sparklings, though sadly these are not as well represented as they should be here.
But for now, the “Sparkling Wines for the Holidays 2024” list below should cover your festive feasts. Once you have made your selections, scroll to the bottom of this post for some bonus videos. A few years back, I made a series of sparkling wine videos. They offer helpful buying tips and a little education on what makes these wines so interesting. Check them out if you want to impress you friends at you next holiday gathering.
Sparkling Wines for the Holidays 2024
SPARKLING WINES FOR THE HOLIDAYS 2024: THE LIST.
Great Value (Under $25) Sparkling Wine for Any Occasion
Pleasant aromas and flavours of crushed strawberry and rhubarb, with creamy undertones. Light and lively on the palate, with tangy red berry notes and a smooth finish. A simple, easydrinking rosé.
This is a clean, classic, well-made Prosecco with fine bubbles (no explosively frothy, “hamster cheek” bubbles here). Discreet aromas of spring blossoms, white pear, and anis lead into a light bodied palate with fresh, rounded acidity and a dry finish.
A natural, pét nat from the Veneto region with lots of personality for the price! Attractive earthy, sourdough bread, raw honey, and baked apricot aromas on the nose. Crisp, dry and nervy on the palate with soft bubbles, and lingering earthy/ savoury hints over tangy apple flavours.
A smooth, crowd pleasing style of Crémant. This Pinot Noir dominant blend has charming, upfront orchard fruit and shortbread biscuit notes on the nose. The palate is fresh and broad, with big, rounded bubbles and a brut (aka fruity, rounded but not sweet) finish.
Juvé & Camps Reserva de la Familia Brut Nature 2019 – 91pts. PW (Penedès, Spain)
Inviting on the nose, with a nice balance of earthy, savoury, and citrussy notes, underscored by tempting hints of brioche. Crisp, medium-bodied, and layered on the mid-palate with pleasant sweet-and-sour citrus, apple notes, and a dry finish.
Vincent Carême, Vouvray Brut 2022 (Loire, France) – 90pts. PW
Inviting nose of acacia, ripe lemon, quince, and hints of anis for this Loire Chenin Blanc bubbly. Crisp and dry on the palate, with nice tension, and quite vibrant mousse. Easy-drinking, refreshing style with a rounded, supple finish.
The sparkling wine scene here at home is, well… pretty effervescent, with stand out wines from coast to coast (check out my Canadian sparkling wine article here). It is definitely worth seeking out sparkling specialists like biodynamic estate, Domaine Bergeville, who have been honing their craft for over a decade. The Blanc Brut is light, nervy, and taut with piercing, crystalline acidity, pure green fruit flavours and a dry finish – a perfect accompaniment for oysters.
A Chardonnay dominant blend, with Pinot Noir, aged for over two years on the lees. Really harmonious on the nose and palate, with pleasing notes of marzipan and ripe orchard fruit, a creamy, textural palate balanced by refreshing acidity, and smooth, persistent bubbles.
Vignoble des 3 Terres Mann Crémant d’Alsace Brut 2020 – 92pts. PW (Alsace, France)
This vivid, hightoned Crémant d’Alsace is made in large part with the local Pinot d’Auxerrrois grape. Initally discreet, notes of chalk and white flowers broaden to include ripe yellow apple and plum aromas with aeration. The palate is firm, yet juicy and long, with elegant, fine bubbles.
This cuvée from Tarlant is an excellent value for lovers of bone dry, zéro dosage style Champagne. Enticing gingersnap, baked apple, preserved lemon, and subtle nutty nuances on the nose. Bracing acidity sets the palate off with a zing. Offers vigorous fine mousse, lots of tension, and an austere, yet flavourful finish with lingering lemony, earthy, sourdough notes.
The Brut Souverain from Henriot is a regular contender for best value Champagne, for my palate. An elegant, vinous bubbly with ultra fine bubbles, racy acidity, and a subtly creamy, layered mid-palate. Aromas of wet stone, brioche, hazelnut, and red apple give this quite classic appeal. Well balanced throughout, to its extra-brut finish.
Champagne Forget-Brimont Brut Rosé Premier Cru – 93pts. PW
Pretty pale salmon in colour, this rosé Champagne has discreet aromas of elderflower, red currant and cinnamon on the nose. The palate is lithe and sleek with racy acidity, and lovely vibrancy. Finishes smooth.
This Blanc de Noirs from Champagne Drappier is always an elegant option, buzzing with lively tension on the palate, in a long, vertical, bone dry style lacking austerity. Attractive red berry, white mushroom, wet stone, and ginger notes echo on the nose and palate.
Posh Champagne to Treat your Guests (and Yourself)
Bollinger Special Cuvée Brut – 94 pts. LW
You really can’t go wrong with Bollinger’s Special Cuvée. This Brut NV offers fantastic balance of heady, indulgent flavours – shortbread, baked apple, yellow pear, with lively lemon and subtly mineral undertones. Creamy and textured on the palate, with balanced freshness, and a smooth, long finish.
Champagne Dame de Carreau Cuvée Bâtarde 2015 – 93pts. LW
This is an interesting cuvée from a small grower Champagne house in the Côte des Bar. A blend of 60% Pinot noir, 20% Chardonnay, and 20% Pinot blanc, from 50 year old vines, grown on Kimeridgean soils (ie. the very same soils found in Chablis). The nose is quite delicate and pretty, with citrus blossom, wet stone, and white mushroom. The palate is crisp and textural, with tangy citrus, nutty, and toasty aromas, and a long, vertical finish.
Medium salmon in colour, the Laurent-Perrier Brut Rosé is immediately appealing, with its vivid strawberry, raspberry, red currant, herbal, and creamy notes. The palate is broad and harmonious, with smooth bubbles, bright red fruit flavours, and a long, lifted finish.
Incredibly complex and powerful, the Egly-Ouriet Brut Grand Cru is most definitely a Champagne to serve with food. This barrel aged (10% new) Pinot Noir dominant blend is made of almost 50% reserve wines, giving pleasing tertiary notes, lots of weight, and textural appeal on the palate. The nose is commanding, with chalky, mineral-focused aromas and underlying notes of green almond, apple, ripe lemon, and toasted nuances.
Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle Itération No. 26 Brut – 95pts. LW
The iconic Grand Siècle Itération No. 26 Brut from Laurent-Perrier is a blend of three exceptional vintages (2012, 2008, 2007) of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from eight Grand Cru villages, aged 10 years on the lees, and a further few years in magnum.
The nose is incredibly elegant, with flinty, earthy intial notes, giving way to richer gingersnap, honeycomb, toasted almond, and lemon peel notes. Racy and lifted on the palate, becoming increasingly expansive to the creamy, layered core. Finishes bone dry with hints of toasty oak and savoury nuances, and a long, saline finish. Gastronimic and still quite youthful.
Nearly a decade in the making, the Pouilly-Loché and Pouilly-Vinzelles Premier Cru terroirs are finally approved. From the 2024 vintage onwards, four climats can proudly bear the 1er Cru mention on their labels.
In an exciting development for the Mâconnais region, Pouilly-Loché and Pouilly-Vinzelles Premier Cru climats have have officially been granted, elevating some of the appellations’ finest vineyards to the ranks of Bourgogne’s most distinguished terroirs.
Four years after the granting of Pouilly-Fuissé Premier Crus, the best climats of Pouilly-Vinzelles and Pouilly-Loché have finally joined their ranks. This long-anticipated recognition is part of a broader initiative to refine the identity of the Mâconnais, a region historically overshadowed by its northern counterparts in the Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits.
The Newly Recognized Pouilly-Loché &Pouilly-Vinzelles Premier Crus
Pouilly-Loché is celebrating its first Premier Cru with the approval of Les Mûres, an 8-hectare site. Known for its limestone-rich red soils soils and southeast exposure, Les Mûres produces wines with distinctive freshness, precision, and lingering salinity, setting a high standard for the appellation.
In Pouilly-Vinzelles, Premier Crus were awareded to three climats: Les Quarts, Les Longeays, and Les Pétaux. Together, these vineyards cover 22 hectares. Les Quarts is revered for its powerful, structured wines derived from its rocky limestone terroir. Les Longeays, with its gentle slope and cooler microclimate, produces more refined, mineral-driven expressions, while Les Pétaux, known for its slightly deeper soils, offers a balanced, fruit-forward profile.
Stricter Production Rulesfor Premier Cru Sites
With Premier Cru status comes a heightened level of rigour in vineyard and winemaking practices. Yields are now capped at 56 hectolitres per hectare, lower than the 60 hl/ha allowed for village-level wines, ensuring concentration and complexity.
Additionally, the minimum alcohol requirement has been raised, and stricter pruning and vine density regulations have been introduced to enhance quality. Manual harvesting is also obligatory. These measures align Pouilly-Loché and Pouilly-Vinzelles with the prestigious standards of Bourgogne’s other Premier Crus.
Why Did Recognition Take So Long?
The road to Premier Cru status for Mâconnais wines has been a slow journey, in part due to historical and geopolitical reasons. During World War II, the line of German occupation—the “Vichy Line”—divided France. With the German army controlling the northern part of France, there was a pressing need to protect the identity and value of Chablis and Côte d’Or vineyards.
By formally naming and classifying the best climats as Premier Crus, winemakers could establish a legal framework that safeguarded their wines from being commandeered or devalued by occupying forces. The southern Mâconnais region, situated in the Free Zone, did not face the same immediate threat. Consequently, the urgency to classify its vineyards was far less pronounced.
This delay in recognition left the Mâconnais overlooked for decades, with its vineyards remaining unclassified despite their potential. Only in recent years, after a push to highlight the region’s unique terroirs and elevate its reputation, has the Mâconnais begun to catch up.
Moreover, the Mâconnais was traditionally seen as a source of simple, affordable wines rather than prestigious terroir-driven bottlings. It wasn’t until the 1980s and 1990s that growers began focusing on quality over quantity, shifting perceptions and prompting the region to seek recognition for its unique vineyards.
A New Chapter for the Mâconnais
The formal approval of these new Pouilly-Loché and Pouilly-Vinzelles Premier Cru climats signifies a growing acceptance of the Mâconnais as a serious player in Bourgogne’s hierarchy. This recognition not only elevates the status of Pouilly-Loché and Pouilly-Vinzelles but also paves the way for future Premier Cru classifications in nearby appellations like Saint-Véran and Viré-Clessé.
Ornellaia 2021 is as powerful and generous a vintage as its cuvée name suggests. Over the years, this iconic Super Tuscan house has achieved a the fine balancing act of consistency and evolution. I recently sat down to taste through three vintages (2021, 2012, and 2006) – three snap shots in time.
My palate was initially formed by diametrically opposed influences. On the one hand, my father’s carefully curated Bordeaux and Bourgogne focused cellar, and on the other, my copious consumption of cheap Chilean jug wines sold at Québec corner stores.
A few years later, when I started working in restaurants, I discovered a “middle road” in fine wines. It offered the same depth, grip, and polish of good Bordeaux with a riper fruited, more opulent style straddling Old World and New. This was the early 2000s, when Super Tuscans were still a relatively new phenomenon.
Though I couldn’t hope to afford the likes of Ornellaia, Sassicaia, or Tignanello, the names filled me with quiet reverence. I was always grateful to accept a glass when wealthy patrons offered. Happily, with the advent of the Toscana IGT appellation in the 1990s, and the modification of Bolgheri DOC rules, many of these illustrious estates multiplied their offerings to include more affordable second and third wines, such as Ornellaia’s Le Serre Nuove and Le Volte.
Over time, the term “Super Tuscan” has faded from many experts’ lexicons, as many of these iconic labels have adopted appellation status, and their styles have evolved and diversified. As with many a premium red wine region, the past twenty years has seen a move to more restrained winemaking. The fashion for ultra-ripe, heavily extracted reds has passed, allowing terroir differences between top more ample expression in the glass.
In May, I had the opportunity to revisit the wines of Ornellaia with the estate’s North American director, Alessandro Lunardi. The focus was the Ornellaia 2021 vintage release, with two contrasting older vintages, to show how the wine evolves over time.
A Conversation between the Sea and the Land
The vineyards of Ornellaia stretch inland from the Tyrrhenian coast to beyond Bolgheri’s famous cypress lined avenue. This area of northern Maremma, in Tuscany, has predominantly marine-origin soils of sandy marl, with more clay-dominant areas strewn with pebbly limestone at higher altitudes. Original owner, Lodovico Antinori planted Ornellaia’s vines in 1981, releasing the first vintage in 1985.
The diversity in soil compositions, altitudes, and mesoclimates – between the more inland areas, and those closest to the sea – allow a wide number of varieties to flourish. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are the estate’s flagship grapes, blended with Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot in the eponymous Ornellaia and its associate wines; exclusively Merlot for the powerful Masseto. In cooler coastal areas, white varieties are grown, namely Sauvignon Blanc, Petit Manseng, Viognier, Verdicchio and Vermentino.
Photo credit: Ornellaia
Consistent Forces and a Changing of the Guards
In 1991, the estate engaged the services of consulting oenologist, Michel Rolland, a role the Bordeaux native he still holds today. “Michel has an encyclopedic memory of every Ornellaia vintage and an incredible sense of how best to express the variations from one season to the next” explains Lunardi.
When Ornellaia changed hands in the late nineties, to Mondavi, and later Frescobaldi, Michel Rolland was integral to maintaining the wine’s signature style. Rolland’s role as a consistent influence in changing times was once again called into service last year.
In 2023, longtime estate director, Axel Heitz, and Ornellaia winemaker, Olga Fusari, both left the estate to pursue new projects. What’s more, Ornellaia CEO Giovanni Geddes announced his retirement at the year’s end. When asked about the possible ramifications of these hugely significant departures, Lunardi was nonplussed.
“Winemaking at Ornellaia is a hugely exacting process, overseen by a highly skilled team. They have been well trained (by Heitz and Fusari). Quality will not be affected by this change in management” he assures me. All the same, it will be interesting to see the personal touch that recently appointed winemaking director, Marco Balsimelli, of Château Gruard-Larose fame, will bring to the wines.
Stylistic Shift over Time
Looking back on Ornellaia’s earliest bottlings, it is interesting to see how the blend has evolved. While the vintages of the 1980s and 1990s were heavily Cabernet Sauvignon dominant, the early 2000s brought a gradual move to greater proportions of Merlot, and secondary blending grapes, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot in the wines.
“Cabernet Franc is a fantastic grape for Bolgheri” according to Lunardi, praising the freshness and red fruit perfume it brings to Ornellaia blends. Indeed, this is an increasingly popular opinion, reflected in increased plantings across the region.
Another important change highlighted by Lunardi, was the move to double sorting in 2016. “We introduced optical sorting, as well as manual, and it has been a game changer” he said. Other changes, identified via a quick study of technical sheets dating back to the 1990s, include the introduction of concrete tanks alongside stainless steel, cooler fermentation temperatures, to a maximum 30ºC, and shorter macerations.
The 2021 Vintage
At Ornellaia, each vintage is given a cuvée name to reflect the growing season conditions and the resultant wine style. The Ornellaia 2021 name was “La Generosità”. The winter was mild and quite wet, allowing the soils to stock up on moisture reserves, which proved a boon through the hot, dry summer. Cooling sea breezes tempered warm weather during harvest, dropping nighttime temperatures and prolonging the growing season.
“We call it an ‘à la carte’ vintage” explained Lunardi, “because we were able to pick each plot at optimal ripeness. We weren’t rushed. The conditions were perfect”. The Ornellaia 2021 vintage name, generosity, thus applies not only to the ample, ripe style but also the benevolent growing season.
The critics seem to agree with Lunardi’s enthusiasm for Ornellaia 2021, as top scores range in the high 90s, making it a favourite on wine investment platforms.
Photo credit: Ornellaia
Ornellaia 2021 Bianco, Bolgheri DOC – 93pts. LW
Attractive Graves-like Sauvignon Blanc with layered aromas of currant bud, nettles, passion fruit, and lemon zest with underlying hints of wet stone. The palate is crisp and highly textural, with zesty citrus fruit and herbal nuances giving way to smoky, toasted oak nuances on the finish. Long and expansive.
The inky dark, fuscia rimmed colour gives a clear indication of the youthful, powerful nature of this red. The nose is utterly seductive, with heady floral notes, ripe blueberry, and cherry essence grounded by undertones of Mediterranean herbs and cedar. Very fresh on the palate, balancing the bold, very dense core. Despite its youth, the tannins are fine grained and the creamy, toasted oak is remarkably well integrated. Hugely concentrated and ripe. Already approachable but best with 8 – 10 years additional cellaring.
The 2012 vintage was dubbed, “the enchantment” (L’Incanto) for its plush character, after a warm, even growing season. After over a decade the wine is still very youthful, with a Bordeaux-like aromatic profile of cassis, plum, licorice and cedar – in a slightly riper frame. Velvetty on the palate, with ripe, plummy fruit and hints of dried orange adding lift. Finishes with marginally chewy, hard-edged tannins.
In Lunardi’s opinion, the 2006 vintage is a prime example of how the 2021 is likely to develop, as growing conditions were similar. The 15-year-old “Esuberenza” has a lovely harmony of tertiary prune, truffle, mocha notes, with fresher dark fruit and minty, balasamic aromas. The palate is full-bodied and broad, with attractive, dried red fruit flavours giving way to lingering earthy, savoury tones. Fine, subtly chalky tannins frame the long finish.
Pantelleria is a rugged, volcanic island known for its abundance of seafood, its capers, and its famous sweet wine made from Zibibbo, Passito di Pantelleria. In May 2024, I hopped on a plane in Trapani to check out the volcanic wines of Pantelleria.
The island of Pantelleria lies 100km to the southwest of Sicily, closer to Tunisia than Italy. As our plane from Trapani made its descent, the rugged hilly landscape, sculpted by lava flows and dotted with scrubby vegetation, stood out against the endless blue sea.
Despite its abundant waters, Pantelleria is focused on agriculture. Olive groves, citrus trees, caper bushes, and vineyards all thrive in its nutrient-rich volcanic soils. As much as I love good olive oil and salted capers, it was (of course) the wines that had drawn me to the island. My fellow travellers and I had come to discover the famous Passito di Pantelleria and the increasing trend for dry white wines.
The island is planted entirely to the Zibibbo grape (aka Muscat d’Alexandrie). Until the 1980s, some 5000 hectares of this aromatic, fruity variety were grown across the island – produced for sale as table grapes, wine, and raisins. However, with the arrival of cheaper, seedless, international varieties like Thompson seedless, Pantelleria’s vineyard acreage has dwindled to just over 400 hectares today.
This is a challenging place to grow grapes or indeed any agricultural crop. The original Arabic name for the island was Bint al-Riyāḥ, which means, daughter of the winds. The climate is decidedly hot and dry during the growing season, and the vineyards are constantly buffeted by strong sea breezes; mainly the Sirocco (a hot, dry Saharan wind) and the Mistral (a cooler northerly gale).
To adapt to their environment, the farmers of Pantelleria have developed a number of ingenious cultivation techniques over the centuries. The vineyards are low-lying bush vines, each cradled within a circular hollow that acts as both a wind barrier and a basin to capture ambient moisture. This Alberello Pantesco vine training system is recognized by Unesco as part of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
Citrus trees are grown within circular, walled shelters. These Giardini Panteschi (Pantellerian gardens) slope inwards from the top to draw down fog to water the plants. The branches of young olive trees are weighted down with heavy rocks to train them to grow in a downward arc, low to the ground. And all across the island, a network of 7,000 kilometres of dry lava stone walls form terraces to limit soil erosion.
Weighed down olive tree. Photo credit: Isobel Salomon
The Giardino pantesco
A single orange tree growing in a Giardino pantesco
In this hilly landscape, agricultural work is largely carried out by hand. Caper bushes are visited daily to pluck ripe buds. The grape and olive harvests are also manual. In the past, famers carried out these back breaking efforts independently, tending to their small holdings alone. Now, as the region strives to reverse a trend of declining cultivation, collective work is prioritized.
Vineyards dot the island, in small plots grown at sea level, all the way up to 600 metres in altitude. Our guide, José Rallo, owner of top Sicilian winery, Donnafugata, explained that – given the diversity of altitudes, orientations, and so forth, the Zibibbo harvest on Pantelleria often spans several months, from early August into October. Rallo is well placed to understand Pantelleria grape growing, with Donnafugata’s 68-hectares of vineyards spread over 16 different districts.
The grape drying process for Passito di Pantelleria lasts from a couple of weeks to just over a month. However, new batches are regularly brought in for drying as different plots attain ripeness. The vinification process is therefore quite long, with newly raisined grapes added to fermenting musts a number of times.
Passito grapes. Photo credit: Donnafugata
While many producers still age in barrel, Donnafugata chooses to mature its iconic Ben Ryé cuvée in stainless steel and bottle, to preserve freshness and aromatic appeal. Our evening meal was capped off with the hedonistic 2014 vintage. A dessert on to itself, the Ben Ryé offered a pretty golden amber colour, candied citrus, caramel, raisin, and roasted, nutty flavours, a velvety texture, and luscious sweetness.
Seductive as a fine Passito di Pantelleria may be, there is growing recognition among Pantelleria’s wine producers of the niche interest for such wines today. In response, a growing contingent are producing dry Zibibbo white wines.
The combination of aromatic grapevines, plunged into volcanic sands, buffeted by briny sea breezes, and surrounded by wild oregano, rosemary, and other dry maquis, gives a compelling result. Dry Zibibbo wines from Pantelleria have the hallmark floral, grapey, peach notes typical of Muscat, with underlying herbal hints, crisp acidity, and subtle salinity that refreshes the finish. Donnafugata’s Lighea cuvée was a perfect foil for a lunch of fresh-caught sea bream sipped a few metres from the eastern shoreline.
After such a short visit, it would have been easy to leave with a romantic view of the struggles and glory of grape growing on Pantelleria. But, in reality, the labour-intensive nature of its viticulture, the difficult climate, and lack of local educational facilities have been driving younger generations off the island for decades.
Only time will tell if the initiative is a success. In the meantime, I shall seek out the thirst quenching, dry whites and cellar worthy passito di Pantelleria to encourage them in my humble way.
This Zibbibo & Volcanic Wines of Pantelleria piece was first published in Good Food Revolution. Check out this excellent publication for the latest on artisinal wines, spirits, beers, and food.
Go big or go home. This is the “America” portrayed in our media. Risk-takers, visionaries, scrappy dreamers building empires, unabashed displays of prosperity. Big houses, big cars, big companies, big wines… Does the stereotype still hold true for California wine in 2024?
Yes and no.
Much has changed stylistically over the past twenty years. The ultra-ripe, extracted, oaky wines that defined premium California in the late 1990s and early 2000s still exist. However, an increasingly large contingent of California’s best producers are striving for fresher, more balanced wines.
California wine still has a big personality, but this largesse is channelled more into its numerous sustainability and climate smart initiatives, its proliferation of new cool climate appellations, and growing diversity of wine grapes.
Large Scale Sustainable Solutions
Sustainability certifications abound in California. Certified California Sustainable, Lodi Rules, Napa Green, Sustainability in Practice, Fish Friendly Farming, USDA Organic, Demeter, Regenerative Organic Certified, the list goes on and on.
This proliferation of organizations may seem overwhelming, but it has its merits. Each one is dedicated to the specific needs of a growing area or the specific tenets of an agricultural system. Overall, it shows that California’s wine producers aren’t content with simply farming more sustainably. They are holding themselves accountable; allowing their practices to be measured, analyzed, and regularly audited.
Today, over 60% of California’s vineyard acreage is certified sustainable and over 80% of its wines are produced in sustainably certified wineries. The region’s main sustainability manual, the California Code of Sustainable Winegrowing is the only best practices guide of its kind to achieve gold standard equivalency to the Sustainable Agriculture Initiative Farm Sustainability Assessment.
This is not to say that California’s efforts are more impressive than those of other sustainable wine champions like New Zealand or Chile. However, it is worth considering the sheer scale of their production. According to the California Wine Institute, the state has just under 250 000 hectares under vine. This is more than New Zealand’s and Chile’s vineyard acreage combined.
Monarch MK-V electric tractor at Wente Vineyards. Image Credit: Monarch Tractor.
The Rise of Cool Sub-Appellations
California hugs the Pacific Ocean coastline, spanning 1,300km in length. The California current, brings frigid waters southward from British Columbia to Baja. The ocean temperature off the California coast rarely exceeds 18˚C, even in the heat of summer.
As warm air rises in the hot interior Central Valley, a vacuum is created, which pulls in cooler coastal breezes. This causes thick banks of fog to form, settling over coastal areas and sneaking through mountain gaps to penetrate certain inland areas overnight. These cooler nights, coupled with hot, dry days, are the key to California’s fresh, ripe wine styles.
Increasingly, grape growers are working to isolate the coolest growing areas, separating them from larger appellations with hugely variable climate conditions. In 2022, the West Sonoma Coast AVA was born, delineating the steepest, most directly coastal vineyards of the vast Sonoma Coast. That same year, the San Luis Obispo Coast AVA emerged, hugging the coastline for 15km from Monterey to Santa Barbara.
In the warm Napa Valley, many of the coolest vineyard sites are to be found higher in altitude. The famed region will soon see its first new sub-AVA in over ten years. Crystal Springs borders Howell Mountain, with shallow, rocky soils and vineyards perched up to 400 metres above sea level.
Growing Beyond Big Cab
Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay remain the undisputed stars of California’s vineyards. Along with Pinot Noir, this powerhouse trio accounts for over 50% of the state’s plantings. In fact, 90% of California’s acreage is dedicated to just nine grapes.
That being said, the number of different grapes grown and interest for these small-scale plantings is rising rapidly. Ten years ago, movements like the Seven Percent Solution were established to champion the 7% of wines from outside the big eight that made up 93% of plantings. Today, the number of “other grapes” has risen to 10% and is comprised of over 90 different varieties.
The up-and-coming small producers that emerged in the early 2010s, championing new varieties, lesser-known terroirs, and minimal intervention winemaking, have definitely moved the needle and mentored a new generation to carry their work forward.
The reaction of sommeliers and wine lovers alike to the wines of those “modern California” pioneers like Steve Matthiasson, Pax Mahle, or Arnot-Roberts galvanized the industry, much in the same way the region’s climate imperative spurred a powerful action plan for sustainability.
California wines have never been better. The watchword of winemakers, big and small, is freshness. The term may not mean the same thing to all wineries, or be interpreted the same way in all appellations, but the impetus is there. Now, we just need to get more of these lighter, brighter wine styles across the border.
This “California Wine in 2024” article was originally published on Good Food Revolution. If you enjoy reading about artisinal food, wine, and spirits, check out this excellent online publication.
Restaurant wine lists are often infuriatingly opaque, and – in my opinion – getting increasingly so over time. Too often they simply list a producer name, a wide, generic designation (Vin de France, anyone?), and a vintage. We are already losing a new generation of wine drinkers. These menus aren’t helping…
How would you react if you were handed a walked into a restaurant tomorrow and the menu read like this:
“Hare & leek, Smith Farm, Little Valley, 2024“
You would know that you were being offered a dish of rabbit and leeks. You would know the name of the farm they came from, and where that farm was located – though, this information would hold little relevance to most patrons. And, you would know that the food was fresh.
What you wouldn’t know is anything even vaguely useful in determining whether you would like this dish. What cooking techniques have been used? What seasonings will affect the flavours? How will the food be served?
It would be understandable if you felt a rising sense of irritation while waiting for the server to come over and enlighten you. After all, what is the point of being handed a menu if it doesn’t provide a means of choosing for oneself. Why bother?
Enter the wine list…
The Age-Old Love Affair between Restaurant and Wine
Countless articles, global statistics, and studies all show that wine consumption is in decline, especially among younger people. There are many reasons for this slump: perceived healthier living choices, cost concerns, attractive alternatives in craft beer, ciders, and cocktails, and so on.
To ensure a bright future for our proud, ancient tradition of winemaking, redoubled efforts are required to court new wine enthusiasts and keep those already cuckoo for Cabernet.
Restaurants are the ideal setting for such noble vinous pursuits. People are out enjoying a bit of a treat, trying dishes they wouldn’t cook at home. They are a ready and willing audience. Cue the gleaming stemware, the gentle pop of the cork, and the romantic terroir tales. A delicious wine, that pairs perfectly with the food, can make an evening out.
But how can diners find that special wine? Simple. They just need to either: a) have explicit knowledge of a vast number of regions, sub-regions, wine producers, vintages, and grape varieties, b) randomly choose, then pray that they won’t spend the evening vaguely annoyed to be spending $100 on a wine they dislike, or c) wait for a sommelier, if the restaurant has one, to come and bestow their wisdom.
Were Restaurant Wine Lists Always this Infuriating… or are they Getting Worse?
It is easy to shrug and say, “twas always thus, and always thus will be.” Restaurant wine lists are notorious for being intimidating and opaque. But in my opinion – somebody who spends their days living, breathing, (and drinking) wine – the problem is only getting worse.
I used to love studying restaurant wine lists. I could spend ages looking for bargains, seeking out regions I hadn’t tasted in a while, trying to spot older vintages that might be hitting their stride. Now, I spend that same amount of time desperately looking for a single recognizable feature that will help narrow down my options.
“Ordering wine in a restaurant has become an experience fraught with potential disappointment. Not only are obscure sub-regions, or worse, vast generic appellations often given as the only indication of a wine’s origin, but even if the list offers greater detail, there is no guarantee that the wine in question will taste anything like what is (or once was) typical for said place”.
The wine-producing world is expanding, and it is up to me to expand my frame of references, sure. But if I feel this way as a wine professional, I can only imagine how daunting the restaurant wine list must be for the average wine drinker.
It is of little use for such customers to look for winery names they may be familiar with from wine shops or glossy magazines. Restaurants want to offer original choices; wines that aren’t seen on the high street. They also don’t want their patrons to compare prices.
I understand and applaud a sommelier’s desire to step away from the mainstream when crafting a restaurant wine list. Give people an experience. Broaden their horizons to include up-and-coming new wine producers, interesting wine regions, under-the-radar grapes…but do it in a way that rouses curiosity and gets people excited.
And, as a side note, offer some stylistic diversity! A whole list of high acid, lean, funky, savoury edged, bone dry wines is a bit dull no matter how many countries and producers they come from.
Describing Wines like Food
Food menus explain their dishes. They tell us that the rabbit was braised, and that it will be served in a rich gravy, with a side of poached leeks. These details allow us to imagine how the dish will taste. Why not convey the flavour profile of a wine in a similar way?
Riesling, Cave Spring, VQA Niagara Peninsula, 2021 (Canada): A light bodied, refreshing, lower alcohol (11%) white wine with vivid notes of citrus, apricot, and wet stone. Unoaked, with high, tangy acidity balanced by a subtle touch of fruity sweetness.
A description like this isn’t just a laundry list of aromas, as I have seen countless times. It gives the reader key information about the wine’s structure: that the wine is light, low in alcohol, high in acidity, unoaked, and subtly off dry. These are all elements that are essential to successful food pairing.
Of course, restaurant wine lists of this sort already exist. This is not a novel concept that I am proposing. However, their language is often overly obscure – more concerned with clever word play, or romanticizing terroir. Or they give way too much information. My example might lack a bit of poetry or wit, but at least it is clear.
Descriptive wine lists are also quite rare, perhaps because of the work involved. Presumably, though, a restaurant wine list author has tasted all their selections. Providing descriptions shouldn’t be all that difficult then – at least for a subset of by-the-glass offerings and by-the-bottle focus wines.
Why not just let sommeliers give these descriptions table-side? Because many restaurants don’t have a sommelier, or not one that works every night. And, because many people don’t want to interrupt their dinner conversation to have a lengthy chat about the wine selection. Also, some diners don’t feel comfortable bothering a busy sommelier for too long.
By giving restaurant patrons the ability to easily narrow down their options, the sommelier can then come along for a brief and pleasant chat, weighing in on the final wine choice and providing additional insights to ramp up their guests’ enthusiasm.
50 Ways to Liven up a Restaurant Wine List
Maybe descriptions aren’t the way to go for some restaurants. Perhaps all that is needed is a simple line of text that recommends the best food pairing for each wine. Or a brief, “drinks like…” comment to indicate other, similar wine styles.
There are so many ways to create a more exciting restaurant wine list. Just look at the entertaining and information-packed menus curated by Paul Grieco’s staff at the Terroir wine bars in New York. They may be a little more than a novice wine drinker can handle…but they definitely make you want to pull up a glass.
Abruzzo wines are often consumed as a cheap and cheerful pizza pairing but this mountainous region on the Adriatic coast has undergone an impressive quality revolution in recent years. Learn all about what makes Abruzzo wines so interesting in my latest video!
Montepulciano is the second most planted red grape variety in Italy. It thrives in the mountainous region of Abruzzo. While the Montepulicano d’Abruzzo DOC is one of the most productive appellations in the country, the region remains little known among wine lovers internationally.
Quality is skyrocketing, from the region’s larger co-operatives and wineries, to a new generation of independent growers. Learn all about Abruzzo’s grapes, appellations, terroir, and food scene in this short, Abruzzo Wine 101 video.
