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Niepoort and the New Portugal

Niepoort Portuguese dry wine

Exploring Niepoort’s Portuguese dry wine, their love of indigenous grapes, and the future of a wine powerhouse.

Mention Portuguese wine, and most enthusiasts today will nod knowingly — Vinho Verde for crisp whites, Alentejo for bold reds, Dão and Bairrada for structure and ageability. Portugal has long shaken off its one-dimensional “Port-only” image.

But how did this transformation happen?

One of the most fascinating ways to trace Portugal’s wine renaissance is through the impressive evolution of one of its historic Port houses: Niepoort.

Over the past three decades, Niepoort has risen from a respected producer of traditional fortified wines into one of the country’s most admired names in dry, table wines. Their story, from early risks, to region-hopping, championing indigenous grapes, and a dogged pursuit of freshness, mirrors the broader shift that has propelled Portugal to new heights in recent years.

From Port to Portugal’s Wine Vanguard

Founded in 1842, Niepoort was long respected for its classic Ports. But things began to shift when Dirk Niepoort, the fifth generation of the family, took the helm in the late 1980s.

At the time, the Douro was still overwhelmingly associated with fortified wine. A handful of revered dry reds existed, led by Casa Ferreirinha’s iconic Barca Velha, but they were rare exceptions. It was Dirk, in large part, that galvanized a generation of producers to ask the question: what if the Douro region, with its well-drained, schist soils, steep slopes, beneficial river, and old vines, could produce great dry wines too?

Niepoort’s early efforts, notably Redoma Tinto and Redoma Branco, rapidly gained attention. Where many Portuguese whites of the era were lean and prone to rapid oxidation, and red wines were unabashedly big and bold, often with a certain rusticity, his were elegant and fresh. From a baking-hot climate, Dirk showed that balanced wines with restrained alcohol were not only possible — they could be deeply expressive. His vision was shaped in part by his admiration for Burgundy, particularly the transparency and finesse of Chambolle-Musigny and Volnay, which inspired his lighter touch in both red and white winemaking.

Dirk and his team worked with field blends of old-vine Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Rabigato, and Codega do Larinho — championing indigenous varieties and historic vineyards. Rather than isolate or simplify, they embraced the complexity of these mixed plantings, treating them with low-intervention techniques and an emphasis on freshness. It was a distinctly modern interpretation of traditional Douro terroir, informed by global influences yet rooted firmly in place.

Quinta da Napoles estate in the Douro
Quinta da Napoles estate in the Douro. Photo credit: Niepoort Vinhos.

Beyond the Douro: Chasing Freshness Across Portugal

What’s perhaps most fascinating about Niepoort’s evolution is how it mirrors the modern diversification of Portuguese wine. While Dirk was one of the earliest and most vocal champions of this shift, he wasn’t alone. A growing movement of producers were reimagining what Portuguese wine could be: fresher, more transparent, more expressive of place. Among them were Anselmo Mendes in Vinho Verde, Luis Pato in Bairrada, and Álvaro Castro in the Dão.

In the ensuing years, Dirk and his team decided to look beyond Douro in their pursuit of interesting indigenous varieties, old vine plots, and fascinating terroirs. By the mid-1990s, Dirk had begun exploring Bairrada, attracted by its cool Atlantic influence and limestone-rich soils. This early interest culminated with the purchase of Quinta de Baixo, leading to refined Baga reds like Lagar de Baixo and Poeirinho.

The mountainous terrain and granite slopes of the Dão, yielded elegant bottlings like Conciso and the Dialogo. In the hot, dry Alentejo region of Southern Portugal, Niepoort sought out higher-altitude sites in the region’s cooler northern reaches to bring nuance and vitality to the wines, among them, the Copo Alegre white and red.

In 2015, his attention shifted to Vinho Verde’s Basto sub-region, where breezy, granitic hillsides provided the ideal setting for crisp, mineral-driven whites such as Dócil Loureiro and Teppo Peixe. Across these diverse landscapes, a shared philosophy emerges: harvest early, intervene minimally, and let the character of the vineyard shine through.

Today, Niepoort’s winemaking goes beyond Portugal. They also produce wines in regions like Germany’s Mosel Valley and across Spain, applying the same focus on expressing the character of each site.

Indigenous Grapes, Organic Practices, and a Shift in Identity

The Niepoort team applying a self prepared herbal tea blend of nettle, horsetail and chamomile to the vines.
Biodynamic preparations being applied by the Niepoort team. Photo credit: Niepoort Vinhos.

One of Portugal’s great strengths is its genetic diversity, according to some sources, second only to Italy in the number of native grape varieties. And Niepoort has championed that diversity at every turn.

Rather than chasing international styles or planting global varieties, Niepoort has doubled down on grapes like Encruzado, Bical, Maria Gomes, Arinto, and Loureiro. The number of white wines in the family’s range has exploded in recent years, reflecting the broader trend in Portugal toward vibrant, textured, mineral-driven whites. Indeed, at a recent tasting, it was the whites that stole the show, in this author’s humble opinion.

Equally notable is Niepoort’s commitment to sustainable viticulture. Many of their vineyards are certified organic or biodynamic (though not all are certified), and there’s a strong focus on minimal intervention in both vineyard and cellar.

The result? A wide spectrum of wines — from playful, glou-glou Nat Cool bottlings to cellar-worthy icons like Charme (an homage to Chambolle-Musigny) and Coche, one of Portugal’s top white wines.

A Changing of the Guard

Today, the Niepoort story enters a new chapter. Daniel Niepoort, the sixth generation, has stepped into the role of head winemaker. While Dirk remains closely involved, Daniel brings a quiet focus and deep passion for viticulture — often spending more time in the vineyards than in the cellar.

This transition reflects a broader generational shift happening across Portuguese wine just as it gains the international recognition it deserves. Alongside Daniel, producers like Filipa Pato in Bairrada, Luis Seabra in Douro, Pedro Marques from Vale de Capucha in Lisboa, and Tiago Teles in Bairrada are pushing boundaries in their regions. At the same time, Portugal’s established houses — from Ramos Pinto to Barbeito — are evolving rapidly to keep pace with the new wave.

What’s Next for Niepoort… and for Portugal?

If the past is any indication, Niepoort won’t stop innovating. New collaborations, continued exploration of forgotten grapes, and fresh interpretations of Portuguese terroir are surely on the horizon.

But perhaps what’s most exciting is how the Niepoort story reflects Portugal’s broader wine narrative: a country with deep traditions, daring ideas, and a future that feels brighter with every bottle.

Stand out Wines from my Recent Niepoort Portuguese dry wine tasting:

Niepoort ADN Alvarinho 2024 – 93pts. PW

Made in partnership with Vinho Verde maestro, Anselmo Mendes, the ADN Alvarinho is a zesty, refreshing white wine with vivid quince, apricot, ripe lemon, and hints of green almond. Medium in body, with a nice balance of tart citrus and riper stone fruit. Finishes bone dry.

Niepoort Copo Alegre Branco 2020, Alentejo – 91pts. PW

This is one of Niepoort’s newer projects, in the mountainous north of Alentejo. The grapes for this traditional blend, led by Arinto, Roupeiro, and Fernão Pires grow on limestone slopes. The result is ripe and seductive, with notes of honeysuckle, yellow stone fruit, lemon peel, and subtle nutty undertones. The palate is crisp and broad, with with a rounded mid-palate and refreshing bitters providing lift to an otherwise quite soft finish.

Niepoort Conciso Branco 2022, Dão – 95pts. LW

This Bical, Malvasia, and Encruzado blend is fermented and aged 20 months in large oak casks, giving a satiny texture and well integrated laquer of toasty, vanilla nuances on the nose and palate. Aromas of lemongrass, beeswax, and white blossom give way to a racy, citrussy character on the palate. The acidic punch and taut initial structure is beautifully balanced by the ripe fruit and enveloping oaked notes on the finish.

Niepoort V. V. Vinhas Velhas 2021, Bairrada – 92pts.

Cooling sea breezes and limestone soils give this blend of Bical and Maria Gomes (aka Fernão Pires) a bracing, green citrus character that nicely offsets the fleshy, rounded mid-palate. Toasty. vanilla oaked notes mingle with macerated yellow fruit, and hints of almond on the nose. Finishes supple and dry.

Niepoort Redoma Branco Reserva 2023, Douro – 95pts. LW

The 2023 vintage of this grand Douro white is a study in power and elegance, with its attractive flinty, hazelnut, lemon, and orchard fruit aromas, soaring over hints of toasted oak. The palate is lively and layered, with a creamy, fairly concentrated mid-palate and lingering green fruit, nutty, and savoury flavours.

Niepoort Conciso Tinto 2017, Dão – 89pts. PW

The Conciso Tinto is made from 80 – 100 year old Baga and Jaen vineyards, on Niepoort’s Quinta da Lomba property in the Dão. The nose is an inviting, effusive array of ripe red fruits, spanning the range from rhubarb to raspberry, with herbal, brambly undertones. The palate begins nicely, in a fresh, medium bodied manner, but gamey, leathery notes slightly overpower the fruit, from my palate, ending with slightly coarse-edged tannins.

Niepoort Poeirinho 2020, Bairrada – 94pts. LW

The Poeirinho cuvée, from Niepoort’s Quinta de Baixo, is proof positive of the finesse a well-made, old-vine Baga wine can offer. Pretty aromas of macerated strawberry, dried plum, floral, and brambly notes harmonize nicely on the nose. The palate is brisk and full-bodied, with a firm, sinewy structure and ripe yet still quite grippy tannins. Needs 2 – 4 years further to soften. Excellent moderate term ageing potential.

Niepoort Charme 2022, Douro – 96pts. LW

This Bourgogne inspired Tinta Roriz and Touriga Franca old vine blend is crushed and initially macerated in lagares, then aged for 18-months in French oak barrels. Heady notes of morello cherry, red plum, hibiscus, wood spice, and subtle earthiness define the nose. The palate is hugely complex, with fresh, juicy acidity lifting and lightening the ample frame. This is a highly concentrated red, with layers of spiced, toasty oak, and fine, velvety tannins. Needs another 3 – 4 years to fully harmonize, with easily another 10 – 15 years ageing potential.

Where to purchase these wines ?

Sadly for my local audience, all of these wines are private imports. Look out for them at fine-drining restaurants, like the excellent Ferreira Café where this tasting (and a fantastic lunch) took place. Inquire with the agent for prices and buying options: Alivin Québec. For readers from outside of Québec, websites like WineSearcher give a great overview of stockists near you.

Reviews

Farming with Philosophy: Johan Reyneke on Biodynamics & South African Wine

Johan Reyneke

What happens when you mix philosophy with farming? You get Johan Reyneke — one of South Africa’s true pioneers in organic and biodynamic viticulture.

In my latest YouTube interview, I sit down with Johan in Montreal to talk about his fascinating journey from philosophy student to vineyard labourer, and ultimately, to founder of Reyneke Wines — South Africa’s first certified biodynamic winery.

Johan shares how reading thinkers like Thoreau and Arne Næss — and grappling with the philosophical tensions between development and nature — led him to question the conventional, chemical-heavy farming practices he encountered early on. His solution? A vineyard guided by ethics, ecology, and self-sufficiency.

We dig into the practical side too — from using ducks and cattle as natural pest and weed control, to the challenges of going organic in the early ’90s, when few around him even knew what that meant. Johan also introduces Reyneke’s newly redesigned, lower-carbon-footprint wine packaging — a powerful statement of his ongoing commitment to sustainability.

Whether you’re a wine lover, environmentalist, or just curious about what biodynamic farming actually looks like, Johan’s story is one you won’t want to miss.

And while you’re there, don’t forget to like, comment, and subscribe for more wine stories from inspiring changemakers across the globe.

Watch the full interview on YouTube here:

Reviews

Wine Terms You Pretend to Know (But Don’t): A 3-Part Series

jacky blisson mw

Let’s be honest—wine terminology can be confusing. In fact, some wine vocabulary is so esoteric and contensious that even connoisseurs argue about its meaning. Whether you’re new to wine or just faking your way through tastings, you’re not alone.

In this 3-part wine education video series, I (Jacky Blisson, Master of Wine) break down the most misunderstood wine tasting terms and explain them in clear, no-nonsense language. If you’ve ever wondered what people really mean when they talk about grippy tannins, or a firm structure, or high volatile acidity, these short videos are for you.

And, if you want to boost your wine language skills, check out my nerdy little guide to tannins descriptors and my explanation of why acidity in wine matters.

Episode 1: The Classics of Wine Tasting

Learn the basics: acidity, body, texture, tannins, and finish—what they are, how to recognize them, and why they matter.

Episode 2: The Fancy-Sounding Jargon

We’re decoding structure, balance, complexity, terroir, and minerality—terms that sound impressive, but often confuse even seasoned wine lovers.

Episode 3: The Sciencey Stuff

Ever heard someone say a wine is “bretty” or that the VA is too high? Discover the science behind oxidation, malolactic fermentation, brettanomyces, and volatile acidity.

If you have a wine term or any other wine education questions that you would like explained, don’t hesitate to write me a comment…and I might just make you a video!

Reviews

Ornellaia 2021 Vintage Release: Tasting the Latest & Looking Back

Ornellaia wine 2021 vintage

Ornellaia 2021 is as powerful and generous a vintage as its cuvée name suggests. Over the years, this iconic Super Tuscan house has achieved a the fine balancing act of consistency and evolution. I recently sat down to taste through three vintages (2021, 2012, and 2006) – three snap shots in time.

My palate was initially formed by diametrically opposed influences. On the one hand, my father’s carefully curated Bordeaux and Bourgogne focused cellar, and on the other, my copious consumption of cheap Chilean jug wines sold at Québec corner stores.

A few years later, when I started working in restaurants, I discovered a “middle road” in fine wines. It offered the same depth, grip, and polish of good Bordeaux with a riper fruited, more opulent style straddling Old World and New. This was the early 2000s, when Super Tuscans were still a relatively new phenomenon.

Though I couldn’t hope to afford the likes of Ornellaia, Sassicaia, or Tignanello, the names filled me with quiet reverence. I was always grateful to accept a glass when wealthy patrons offered. Happily, with the advent of the Toscana IGT appellation in the 1990s, and the modification of Bolgheri DOC rules, many of these illustrious estates multiplied their offerings to include more affordable second and third wines, such as Ornellaia’s Le Serre Nuove and Le Volte.

Over time, the term “Super Tuscan” has faded from many experts’ lexicons, as many of these iconic labels have adopted appellation status, and their styles have evolved and diversified. As with many a premium red wine region, the past twenty years has seen a move to more restrained winemaking. The fashion for ultra-ripe, heavily extracted reds has passed, allowing terroir differences between top more ample expression in the glass.

In May, I had the opportunity to revisit the wines of Ornellaia with the estate’s North American director, Alessandro Lunardi. The focus was the Ornellaia 2021 vintage release, with two contrasting older vintages, to show how the wine evolves over time.

A Conversation between the Sea and the Land

The vineyards of Ornellaia stretch inland from the Tyrrhenian coast to beyond Bolgheri’s famous cypress lined avenue. This area of northern Maremma, in Tuscany, has predominantly marine-origin soils of sandy marl, with more clay-dominant areas strewn with pebbly limestone at higher altitudes. Original owner, Lodovico Antinori planted Ornellaia’s vines in 1981, releasing the first vintage in 1985.

The diversity in soil compositions, altitudes, and mesoclimates – between the more inland areas, and those closest to the sea – allow a wide number of varieties to flourish. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are the estate’s flagship grapes, blended with Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot in the eponymous Ornellaia and its associate wines; exclusively Merlot for the powerful Masseto. In cooler coastal areas, white varieties are grown, namely Sauvignon Blanc, Petit Manseng, Viognier, Verdicchio and Vermentino.

Photo credit: Ornellaia

Consistent Forces and a Changing of the Guards

In 1991, the estate engaged the services of consulting oenologist, Michel Rolland, a role the Bordeaux native he still holds today. “Michel has an encyclopedic memory of every Ornellaia vintage and an incredible sense of how best to express the variations from one season to the next” explains Lunardi.

When Ornellaia changed hands in the late nineties, to Mondavi, and later Frescobaldi, Michel Rolland was integral to maintaining the wine’s signature style. Rolland’s role as a consistent influence in changing times was once again called into service last year.

In 2023, longtime estate director, Axel Heitz, and Ornellaia winemaker, Olga Fusari, both left the estate to pursue new projects. What’s more, Ornellaia CEO Giovanni Geddes announced his retirement at the year’s end. When asked about the possible ramifications of these hugely significant departures, Lunardi was nonplussed.

“Winemaking at Ornellaia is a hugely exacting process, overseen by a highly skilled team. They have been well trained (by Heitz and Fusari). Quality will not be affected by this change in management” he assures me.  All the same, it will be interesting to see the personal touch that recently appointed winemaking director, Marco Balsimelli, of Château Gruard-Larose fame, will bring to the wines.

Stylistic Shift over Time

Looking back on Ornellaia’s earliest bottlings, it is interesting to see how the blend has evolved. While the vintages of the 1980s and 1990s were heavily Cabernet Sauvignon dominant, the early 2000s brought a gradual move to greater proportions of Merlot, and secondary blending grapes, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot in the wines.

“Cabernet Franc is a fantastic grape for Bolgheri” according to Lunardi, praising the freshness and red fruit perfume it brings to Ornellaia blends. Indeed, this is an increasingly popular opinion, reflected in increased plantings across the region.

Another important change highlighted by Lunardi, was the move to double sorting in 2016. “We introduced optical sorting, as well as manual, and it has been a game changer” he said. Other changes, identified via a quick study of technical sheets dating back to the 1990s, include the introduction of concrete tanks alongside stainless steel, cooler fermentation temperatures, to a maximum 30ºC, and shorter macerations.

The 2021 Vintage

At Ornellaia, each vintage is given a cuvée name to reflect the growing season conditions and the resultant wine style. The Ornellaia 2021 name was “La Generosità”. The winter was mild and quite wet, allowing the soils to stock up on moisture reserves, which proved a boon through the hot, dry summer. Cooling sea breezes tempered warm weather during harvest, dropping nighttime temperatures and prolonging the growing season.

“We call it an ‘à la carte’ vintage” explained Lunardi, “because we were able to pick each plot at optimal ripeness. We weren’t rushed. The conditions were perfect”. The Ornellaia 2021 vintage name, generosity, thus applies not only to the ample, ripe style but also the benevolent growing season.

The critics seem to agree with Lunardi’s enthusiasm for Ornellaia 2021, as top scores range in the high 90s, making it a favourite on wine investment platforms.

Photo credit: Ornellaia

Ornellaia 2021 Bianco, Bolgheri DOC – 93pts. LW

Attractive Graves-like Sauvignon Blanc with layered aromas of currant bud, nettles, passion fruit, and lemon zest with underlying hints of wet stone. The palate is crisp and highly textural, with zesty citrus fruit and herbal nuances giving way to smoky, toasted oak nuances on the finish. Long and expansive.

Ornellaia 2021″ La Generosita”, Bolgheri DOC Superiore Rosso – 97pts LW

53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 7% Petit Verdot

The inky dark, fuscia rimmed colour gives a clear indication of the youthful, powerful nature of this red. The nose is utterly seductive, with heady floral notes, ripe blueberry, and cherry essence grounded by undertones of Mediterranean herbs and cedar. Very fresh on the palate, balancing the bold, very dense core. Despite its youth, the tannins are fine grained and the creamy, toasted oak is remarkably well integrated. Hugely concentrated and ripe. Already approachable but best with 8 – 10 years additional cellaring.

Ornellaia 2012 ‘L’ Incanto’, Bolgheri DOC Superiore Rosso – 93pts LW

The 2012 vintage was dubbed, “the enchantment” (L’Incanto) for its plush character, after a warm, even growing season. After over a decade the wine is still very youthful, with a Bordeaux-like aromatic profile of cassis, plum, licorice and cedar – in a slightly riper frame. Velvetty on the palate, with ripe, plummy fruit and hints of dried orange adding lift. Finishes with marginally chewy, hard-edged tannins.

Blend: 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, 7% Petit Verdot

Ornellaia 2006 ‘Esuberenza”, Bolgheri DOC Superiore Rosso – 95pts. LW

In Lunardi’s opinion, the 2006 vintage is a prime example of how the 2021 is likely to develop, as growing conditions were similar. The 15-year-old “Esuberenza” has a lovely harmony of tertiary prune, truffle, mocha notes, with fresher dark fruit and minty, balasamic aromas. The palate is full-bodied and broad, with attractive, dried red fruit flavours giving way to lingering earthy, savoury tones. Fine, subtly chalky tannins frame the long finish.

Blend: 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc, 5% Petit Verdot

To purchase, enquire with agent :  Mark Anthony