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Pouilly-Vinzelles

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Introducing the New Pouilly-Loché & Pouilly-Vinzelles Premier Cru Terroirs

Pouilly-Vinzelles Premier Crus

Nearly a decade in the making, the Pouilly-Loché and Pouilly-Vinzelles Premier Cru terroirs are finally approved. From the 2024 vintage onwards, four climats can proudly bear the 1er Cru mention on their labels.

In an exciting development for the Mâconnais region, Pouilly-Loché and Pouilly-Vinzelles Premier Cru climats have have officially been granted, elevating some of the appellations’ finest vineyards to the ranks of Bourgogne’s most distinguished terroirs.

Four years after the granting of Pouilly-Fuissé Premier Crus, the best climats of Pouilly-Vinzelles and Pouilly-Loché have finally joined their ranks. This long-anticipated recognition is part of a broader initiative to refine the identity of the Mâconnais, a region historically overshadowed by its northern counterparts in the Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits.

The Newly Recognized Pouilly-Loché & Pouilly-Vinzelles Premier Crus

Pouilly-Loché is celebrating its first Premier Cru with the approval of Les Mûres, an 8-hectare site. Known for its limestone-rich red soils soils and southeast exposure, Les Mûres produces wines with distinctive freshness, precision, and lingering salinity, setting a high standard for the appellation.

In Pouilly-Vinzelles, Premier Crus were awareded to three climats: Les QuartsLes Longeays, and Les Pétaux. Together, these vineyards cover 22 hectares. Les Quarts is revered for its powerful, structured wines derived from its rocky limestone terroir. Les Longeays, with its gentle slope and cooler microclimate, produces more refined, mineral-driven expressions, while Les Pétaux, known for its slightly deeper soils, offers a balanced, fruit-forward profile.

Stricter Production Rules for Premier Cru Sites

With Premier Cru status comes a heightened level of rigour in vineyard and winemaking practices. Yields are now capped at 56 hectolitres per hectare, lower than the 60 hl/ha allowed for village-level wines, ensuring concentration and complexity.

Additionally, the minimum alcohol requirement has been raised, and stricter pruning and vine density regulations have been introduced to enhance quality. Manual harvesting is also obligatory. These measures align Pouilly-Loché and Pouilly-Vinzelles with the prestigious standards of Bourgogne’s other Premier Crus.

Why Did Recognition Take So Long?

The road to Premier Cru status for Mâconnais wines has been a slow journey, in part due to historical and geopolitical reasons. During World War II, the line of German occupation—the “Vichy Line”—divided France. With the German army controlling the northern part of France, there was a pressing need to protect the identity and value of Chablis and Côte d’Or vineyards.

By formally naming and classifying the best climats as Premier Crus, winemakers could establish a legal framework that safeguarded their wines from being commandeered or devalued by occupying forces. The southern Mâconnais region, situated in the Free Zone, did not face the same immediate threat. Consequently, the urgency to classify its vineyards was far less pronounced.

This delay in recognition left the Mâconnais overlooked for decades, with its vineyards remaining unclassified despite their potential. Only in recent years, after a push to highlight the region’s unique terroirs and elevate its reputation, has the Mâconnais begun to catch up.

Moreover, the Mâconnais was traditionally seen as a source of simple, affordable wines rather than prestigious terroir-driven bottlings. It wasn’t until the 1980s and 1990s that growers began focusing on quality over quantity, shifting perceptions and prompting the region to seek recognition for its unique vineyards.

A New Chapter for the Mâconnais

The formal approval of these new Pouilly-Loché and Pouilly-Vinzelles Premier Cru climats signifies a growing acceptance of the Mâconnais as a serious player in Bourgogne’s hierarchy. This recognition not only elevates the status of Pouilly-Loché and Pouilly-Vinzelles but also paves the way for future Premier Cru classifications in nearby appellations like Saint-Véran and Viré-Clessé.

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TASTING THE WINES OF DOMAINE LA SOUFRANDIÈRE

wines of domaine la Soufrandière

The wines of Domaine la Soufrandière are among the most arresting Chardonnays Burgundy has to offer. The six hectare estate is located in Vinzelles, in the oft under-rated Mâconnais wine-producing region. It is the property of the uber-talented Bret Brothers, Jean-Philippe and Jean-Guillaume.

The Vineyards of Domaine la Soufrandière

Originally purchased by their grandfather back in 1947, Jean-Philippe and Jean-Guillaume took up the reins in the year 2000. Having followed the trajectory of their mentor, Jean-Marie Guffens, the brothers were determined to prove that high-quality, ageworthy wines could be made in their Vinzelles vineyards.

To achieve this aim, they immediately set about dissecting their vineyards into terroir-specific plots and began the conversion process to organic and biodynamic farming. At the time, these methods were little practiced in the region. The brothers therefore headed north, to study under Dominique Lafon. By 2006, the wines of Domaine de la Soufrandière were certified both AB (organic) and Demeter (biodynamics).

Today, the estate consists of four hectares (ha) of Pouilly-Vinzelles climat “Les Quarts”, just over one-half a ha of Pouilly-Vinzelles climat “Les Longeays”, and one ha of Mâcon-Vinzelles “Le Clos de Grand-Père”. In 2016, the Bret brothers also took over the management of an additional five ha of Saint-Véran and Pouilly-Fuissé vineyards.

Vineyards range from thirty-three to eighty years in age and are predominantly planted on east and south-east facing slopes.

The Wines of Domaine la Soufrandière

In recent years, the brothers have been progressively lowering sulphur levels in their wines. “We are not extremists” explained Jean-Philippe Bret, at a recent virtual tasting. “If we feel the wine requires a sulphur addition, we will do it”. It is a question of terroir and timing for the brothers.

“Certain terroirs – cooler sites, with healthy, biodiverse soils – handle low sulphur levels better than other areas” according to Jean-Philippe. The brothers wait as late as possible in the winemaking process to ensure the added sulphur remains in its free, active state. Their “Zen” cuvées see no more than 20 milligram/ litre (mg/l) of sulphur additions at bottling, while others tend to sit at a 40 – 60mg/l.

The Bret brothers use gentle, low intervention winemaking methods. The grapes are delicately pressed and allowed to clarify naturally. Wild yeasts are used for fermentation and ageing occurs in seasoned oak barrels. The wines of Domaine la Soufrandière are often categorized as natural wine; a concept the brothers quietly espouse, with reasoned adherence.

What’s next for the wines of Domaine la Soufrandière and Bret Brothers? This question made Jean-Philippe smile. The brothers have a wealth of exciting projects on the go. In the vineyards they are experimenting with different green manures. They are also exploring the use of milk and whey to replace sulphur sprays.

In the cellars, new wine styles are in development. Watch out for an extra-brut, delicately sparkling “Bret Nat” coming soon. Another potential newcomer is a skin contact white, macerated six to eight days before pressing.

The 2018 Vintage of Domaine La Soufrandière

While our discussion was a fascinating one, the goal of the meeting was to taste a trio of top 2018 wines of Domaine la Soufrandière. The vintage was “very hot and dry” explained Jean-Philippe. This led to worries of heavy, overly rich wines reminiscent of 2009. Thankfully this is not the case. The 2018s, while ripe and generously proportioned, retain a fresh, wonderfully vibrant character.

La Soufrandière Saint Véran “Cuvée La Combe Desroches” 2018 – 93pts. PW

The La Combe Desroches plot is located near Vergisson, exposed north, giving a very fresh, mineral-driven style of Chardonnay. Two-thirds of the blend are fermented and aged in tank, while the remaining one-third is matured in seasoned barrels.

Initially discreet. Reveals aromas of ripe lemon, pear, and white blossoms, with underlying hints of wet stone and honeycomb, upon aeration. The palate is zesty and taut, deepening on the mid-palate with  juicy citrus and orchard fruit flavours. The finish is electric, with an attractive hint of grapefruit pith bitterness.

Where to Buy: SAQ ($47.50)

La Soufrandière Pouilly-Fuissé Climat « En Chatenay » 2018 – 96pts. LW

This east-facing vineyard at the foot of the Roche de Vergisson planted on red soils of Jurassic limestone that  bring “tension and texture” to the wines, according to Jean-Philippe.

Intense, highly complex aromas of yellow apple, brioche, and white blossoms, laced with flinty nuances, leap from the glass. The palate is intially nervy, with mouthwatering acidity bringing lovely balance to the full-bodied, textural palate. Flavours of tart citrus, buttered brioche, and savoury undertones linger on the vibrant, ultra-long finish.

Where to Buy: SAQ ($70.25; also available in magnums)

La Soufrandière Pouilly-Vinzelles Climat « Les Quarts » 2018 – 94pts. LW

This is one of the historic sites for the wines of Domaine la Soufrandière. The Les Quarts vineyard is located at the top of a south-east facing slope of active limestone and clay soils. The vines are among the oldest of the estate, at forty-five to eighty years in age.

Initally restrained, with a mounting symphony of yellow fruits, raw honey, buttered popcorn, and earthy, white mushroom notes developing within minutes of pouring. Racy acidity gives way to an expansive, concentrated mid-palate bursting with bright fruit and savoury flavours. Finishes on a slightly oxidative note, with subtle nutty, crab apple nuances underlying flinty nuances.

Where to Buy: SAQ ($77.25)

What does VW, PW, LW mean in my scores for the wines of Domaine la Soufrandière? Check out my wine scoring system.