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7 Stellar Red Wines to Drink with Hamburgers

Wines to Drink with Hamburgers

The idea that someone might even ponder which red wines to drink with hamburgers may seem surprising. After all, aren’t we supposed to be washing down our burgers with super sized soft drinks or cold beers?

If you are just picking up cheap take out, why not. But, if gourmet hamburgers are more your speed, then the right wine pairing can take your dinner to the next level. Trust me. I am married to a hamburger fanatic. We have tried every beverage pairing. There is nothing like a well-chosen red wine to cut the richness and lift the flavours of a juicy burger.

I read somewhere that we consume a whopping 50 billion burgers each year. Since the global expansion of America’s fastfood chains since in 1950s and 1960s, the humble hamburger has risen to become of the world’s most popular meals.

Though today, much has changed. We have moved way beyond the simple beef patty on a cheap bun formula that once defined the burger. Countless delicious plant-based hamburger options exist now. And classic beef burgers range from lean, veggie-loaded styles to decadent, bacon and cheese adorned two handers.

The flavour differences can be immense and there definitely isn’t a one-wine-fits-all solution. To help determine what wine will work best, consider these factors:

  1. Keep it simple (unless its not): if you are just grilling a pre-made patty and slapping a kraft single slice on it, you don’t need a grand cru wine. Always pair to the level of complexity of the food.
  2. Stay in your weight class: match the weight and intensity of the wine to the heartiness of the dish. A lighter, plant-based or lean beef burger will be overwhelmed by a dense, powerful (or heavily oaked) wine.
  3. Lively wines lighten rich food: a greasy burger, loaded with fried veggies, bacon, or slabs of cheese is heartburn waiting to happen. Wines with lively acidity can cut through the fat, making the dish feel lighter on the palate.
  4. Save the big guns for the big burgers: highly tannic wines create a drying, astringent sensation on the palate which can clobber delicate flavours. They are best served with weightier, beef burgers. Tannins bind with the proteins in meat, intensifying its rich, savoury flavours and, in turn, softening the wine.

With these principles in mind, I decided to test out different hamburger wines from around the world, to suit the lightest to heaviest of burger styles. Below are three of my current favourites, with drink alike options that may not taste identical, but have similar weight, acidity levels, and structure.

BEST FOR LIGHTER PLANT-BASED BURGERS (think chickpeas, lentils, black beans…)

Photo credit: Consorzio Tutela Vini Etna DOC

Wine choice: Etna Rosso (Italy)

What is it? Red wine produced from indigenous Italian grapes; predominantly Nerello Mascalese blended with up to 20% Nerello Cappuccio. As the name suggests, the vineyards grow on the slopes of Mount Etna, in eastern Sicily. This rich, volcanic terroir produces lithe, elegant red wines that are sometimes compared to Piedmont’s Nebbiolo – in a riper, lighter, less tannic style.

Why I chose it: Etna Rosso wines are generally light to medium bodied. Their vibrant acidity and tangy berry flavours enhance lighter food pairings, while their wet stone mineral notes match the earthy flavours of legumes (like pea and bean proteins). They have fine chalky tannins that provide structure without drying out the wines. Oak, if used for ageing, is generally very discreet.

Try these Estates: Tenuta della Terre Nere, Tornatore, Piano dei Daini, Planeta, Tascante, Torre Mora

Drink alikes: Gamay (Beaujolais, Niagara), Pinot Noir (lighter Bourgogne styles, Ahr, Jura)

BEST FOR LEAN BEEF BURGERS (or “faux meat” alternatives)

Photo credit: Bierzo Designation of Origin Regulator Board

Wine choice: Mencia, Bierzo (Spain)

What is it? Red wine from the Mencia grape, grown in the mountainous region of Bierzo in northwestern Spain. Bierzo has a maritime-influenced climate that is cooler than many of Spain’s more inland red wine regions, giving more refreshing acidity and lower alcohol. The slate and granite soils here are said to impart a mineral tension to the wines. Mencia from Bierzo can be similar to Priorat red wines, in its fruit profile, but is leaner and more angular.

Why I chose it: Mencia is typically medium-bodied, with moderately firm tannins. Its umami undertones compliment the burger’s meaty flavours, while its juicy red and black fruit and fresh acidity provide a high note to lift, and lighten the pairing. Many producers use older oak casks for ageing, giving only a subtle toasty, spiced patina to the wines.

Handy Tips: Different tiers of Bierzo reds exist. Crianza wines are more youthful and fruit-driven, ageing for two years before release, with a minimum of six months in oak. Reserva wines have greater oak influence and more tertiary flavours (ie. earthy, leather, tobacco, dried fruit) from their mandated three years ageing; with one year minimum in oak.

Try these Estates: Descendientes de J. Palacios (Alvaro Palacios), Raul Perez, Dominio de Tares, Pittacum, Peique, Bodegas y Vinedos Paixar

Drink Alikes: Loire Valley Cabernet Franc (Chinon, Saumur-Champigny)

BEST FOR BIG, BOLD BEEF BURGERS

Guigal Côte Rôtie vineyards

Wine choice: Northern Rhône Syrah (France)

What is it? The vineyards of the Northern Rhône Valley span a 100km stretch from just south of Lyon, to the city of Valence in eastern France. The climate is temperate continental with cool winters and warm summers, moderated by the fierce Mistral wind that regularly howls down the valley corridor. Syrah is the only red grape authorized on the mainly granite slopes here.

Why I chose it: Northern Rhône Syrahs are full-bodied, with lots of freshness and finesse, which both complements and contrasts the richness of a hearty burger. Their dark fruit and floral aromas are really enticing on the nose. They have firm, structuring tannins and black pepper flavours that pair well with red meat. Oak flavours are generally subtle.

Handy Tips: If you are willing to splurge on the wine, Côte Rôtie is an excellent choice. Wines from this appellation often have distinctive smoky bacon flavours that pair perfectly with decadently meaty burgers. For a good value alternative, try a St. Joseph, which has a similar flavour profile though slightly less intensity.

Try these Estates: Jamet, Burgaud, Ogier, Rostaing, Guigal, Coursodon, Courbis, Gaillard, Gonon, Chave, Jaboulet Ainé, and so so many more!

Drink Alikes: Hawkes Bay Syrah (New Zealand)

Life

Salt, Pepper & Pinot Noir

how we drink wine
Photo credit: Claude Rigoulet

In my previous life as a winery sales manager I used to do lots of in-store tastings. They required a lot of standing around, and serving consumers wine in terrible conditions…too warm, in awful little plastic cups, in overly hot or cold store aisles…not ideal. You do learn a lot about different cultures and how we drink wine.

In the UK, people will partake any time of day. A free sample is a free sample. They won’t necessarily hang around to hear your shtick about the wine and they probably won’t buy a bottle, but they will happily take the proffered glass. Whenever.

French people will take the glass, sniff and swirl, and then proceed to tell you about their cousin so and so who has a vineyard in the Beaujolais, or their buddy in Paris who is a caviste (wine merchant). They want to make sure that you know that they are “connected”, and that you can’t pull the wool over their eyes.

In North America, it all depends on when you are offering. Before 3pm the majority of people will turn down your wine sample with a shocked “I’m driving” or “I’m in the middle of my work day”…as though a thimble full of wine will suddenly turn them into deranged, drunken lunatics. However, come mid-afternoon, the driving stress somehow goes out the window and everyone takes a glass.

…as though a thimble full of wine will suddenly turn them into deranged, drunken lunatics

Business lunches are more of the same. In France, if you go out for a meal, you drink wine. Period. This side of the Atlantic, if people do accept a glass of wine before 5pm, they generally feel the need to justify their sinful behaviour, along the lines of: “It’s almost Friday” or “It must be six o’clock somewhere”, followed by a nervous chuckle.

This is not to say that North Americans are repressed, or that Europeans are more liberated. It is simply a reflection of wine’s role in different societies. My husband is French. He grew up with wine on the table at every meal. Aside from special occasions, wine was consumed in moderation to slake thirst and punctuate conversation.

Guillaume’s take on wine is one that I wish more people shared. He sees wine as a condiment; something to be used to flavour your food. A seasoning agent, if you will, to be consumed in much the same way as mustard in a sandwich.

He sees wine as a condiment; something to be used to flavour your food.

Wine is increasingly being taken out of context; evaluated on its own and consumed separately from food. The intoxicating effects of wine are overly glorified or demonized, so that many see this as its principal attribute.

But wine is so much more…

One of the many things that sets it apart is its interaction with food. Tannin binds with and softens proteins in meat, intensifying their rich savoury flavours and reducing the astringency of the wine. Acidic sensations from lemon or tomato based dishes can be tempered by pairing with an equally acidic wine. Certain aromas or flavours can be underscored by matching with similarly scented wines.

Olive oil tastes rich and delicious on its own, but sprinkle a pinch of sea salt on it and the flavour comes alive. This is what wine and food can and should be to each other. Just think of the briny tang of oysters washed down with fine Champagne bubbles…

Oysters and Charles Heidsieck

Olive oil tastes rich and delicious on its own, but sprinkle a pinch of sea salt on it and the flavour comes alive. This is what wine and food can and should be to each other.

A number of years ago, my husband and I were in Piedmont for the annual Fiera del Tartufo (truffle festival). The white truffle is one of my all time culinary favourites. There are few flavours out there that can rival this pungently earthy, yet delicately refined taste. The mamma at our guest house overheard our rhapsodising and sent us off truffle hunting with her winemaker neighbour Luigi and his truffle dog. Bilbi proved a valiant beast, quickly unearthing several nuggets of white gold.

What came next was an evening I won’t soon forget.

Luigi took us to his cellar to taste his latest vintage of pleasant yet fairly rustic Grignolino and Barbera wines. Then on to dinner. Luigi’s charming wife had prepared a simple, creamy white risotto. After passing around the plates, she proceeded to shave great mounds of white truffle on each bowl. Luigi brought out his Barbera d’Asti Superiore. What had seemed a fairly ordinary wine in the winery was suddenly transformed. It seemed richer and rounder, with more earthy nuances and brighter fruit. Each bite of risotto called for another sip, and each sip, another bite.

I could recount a hundred tales like this but I’d sooner let you discover this pleasure for yourself.  On the menu tonight, caramelized onion and gruyère quiche. I am thinking that a rich, smoky Alsatian Pinot Gris might just do the trick.