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Franciacorta’s Ca’ del Bosco: Icon of Italian Sparkling Wine

Posted on September 18, 2025
Ca del Bosco

Yesterday was a gloriously sunny fall day. One of those echos of summer that puts you in a celebratory mood. And, happily for me, I was headed to lunch with the charming Giacomo Marzotto, a member of the wine powerhouse Marzotto family, in town to sing the praises of their Franciacorta estate. Ca’ del Bosco is one of the most renowned producers of Franciacorta sparkling wine. Over a lineup of both sparkling and still bottlings, Giacomo offered insight into the philosophy that has made Ca’ del Bosco a benchmark estate in Italy.

Franciacorta in Context

Franciacorta is a relatively young appellation, officially recognized in 1967 and elevated to DOCG status in 1995. In just a few decades, this Lombardy region has grown into Italy’s premier source of traditional-method sparkling wine, often compared to Champagne. With just under 3,000 hectares under vine and some 200 producers, Franciacorta remains small in scale but ambitious in quality. Chardonnay dominates plantings, with Pinot Noir and Pinot Bianco playing important supporting roles.

The style is distinctive. Where Champagne often emphasizes taut acidity and racy bubbles, Franciacorta wines lean into their vinous quality, showing rounded mid-palates, creamy, rounded mousse, and understated aromatics. Minimum lees ageing is already generous—18 months for multi-vintage wines and 30 months for vintage releases—but many producers, including Ca’ del Bosco, extend this far beyond the requirements.

Franciacorta also has a still wine counterpart. Under the Curtefranca DOC, Bordeaux varieties such as Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Carménère are crafted into supple, structured red wines. Though the appellation is separate from Franciacorta, the link is strong: these reds grow at the same latitude as Bordeaux and reflect the same focus on finesse and longevity.

Experimentation is part of the region’s future. Erbamat, an indigenous white grape first authorized in 2017, ripens three weeks later than Chardonnay and retains very high acidity. For now, only a few hectares exist, but the variety is viewed as a promising ally in the face of climate change.

The Ca’ del Bosco Approach

Founded in the late 1960s by Maurizio Zanella, Ca’ del Bosco quickly established itself as a pioneer of Franciacorta. Today, the estate farms 300 hectares of organically certified vines, though the certification is not printed on the labels.

The winery is renowned for meticulous attention to detail. Grapes undergo the so-called “berry spa,” a process of chilled water baths and purified air drying before pressing. Must and wine are transferred by gravity rather than pumps, limiting oxidation and minimizing sulphur additions. Fermentations are started with a mix of indigenous and selected yeasts, built through pied de cuve. Ageing times on lees consistently exceed appellation minimums: 24 months for the multi-vintage Cuvée Prestige, and up to nine years for the prestige cuvée Annamaria Clementi. For more than six years, the estate has eliminated cane sugar entirely, using only concentrated organic grape must for tirage and dosage.

The goal is purity and precision, ensuring that everything in the wine comes from the grape itself. Even terminology reflects this philosophy. Since 2007, Ca’ del Bosco has avoided the phrase “non-vintage,” preferring instead “multi-vintage” and labeling each release with an Edizione number, emphasizing its identity as an annually crafted expression.

The Wines

Ca’del Bosco Franciacorta “Cuvée Prestige”, Edizione 47 – 92pts. PW

80% Chardonnay, 19% Pinot Noir, 1% Pinot Bianco. Aged 25 months on lees.
The 47ᵗʰ edition of Ca’ del Bosco’s flagship multi-vintage sparkling wine, based on the 2022 harvest, shows aromas of ginger biscuit, white flowers, and yellow plum. The palate is crisp and citrusy, with savoury undertones, a broad tangy mid-palate, and lively acidity. A superb value introduction to Franciacorta.

Where to Buy: SAQ ($48.00), agent: Montalvin

Ca’del Bosco Franciacorta “Vintage Collection” Dosage Zero 2020 – 94pts. LW

65% Chardonnay, 22% Pinot Noir, 13% Pinot Bianco. Aged 48 months on lees.
This zero-dosage bottling highlights the natural richness of the fruit. The nose is earthy and savoury, with macerated quince and plum. Concentrated and mouthwatering on the palate, with creamy mousse, taut structure, and a long, citrus-lime finish. 94 points.

Where to Buy: SAQ ($89.00), agent: Montalvin

Ca’del Bosco Franciacorta “Vintage Collection” Satèn 2020 – 95pts. LW

85% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Bianco. Four years on lees.
Satèn is Franciacorta’s blanc de blancs style, made with reduced bottle pressure for a softer mousse. The 2020 vintage shows vibrant aromas of citrus, guava, chamomile, and lemon pastry. The palate is precise, saline, and tensile, bone-dry yet brimming with energy. Incredibly long and sleek.

Where to Buy: SAQ ($82.25), agent: Montalvin

Ca’del Bosco Franciacorta “Annamaria Clementi” 2016, Extra Brut – 97pts. LW

55% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir, 25% Pinot Bianco. Nine years on lees.
Named for the mother of Maurizio Zanella, this prestige cuvée is among Italy’s most acclaimed sparkling wines. Fermented in third-use barrels, with malolactic conversion and gravity transfer, it opens with complex, layered notes of dried quince, biscuit, custard cream, ginger, and lemon peel. The palate is satiny and deeply concentrated, with noble citrus peel bitters and subtle mineral lift on the long finish. 97 points.

Where to Buy: SAQ ($150.00), agent: Montalvin

Ca’del Bosco “Corte del Lupo” Rosso 2022, Curtefranca DOC – 92pts. PW

38% Merlot, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Cabernet Franc, 7% Carménère.
Produced under the Curtefranca DOC, this supple red has an inviting floral and red-fruited nose, developing cassis, plum, and cedar with aeration. The palate is fresh and silky, with velvety tannins, moderate oak integration, and a long, balanced finish. A polished expression of Lombardy’s Bordeaux heritage.

Where to Buy: SAQ ($37.25), agent: Montalvin

Ca’del Bosco Franciacorta “Maurizio Zanella” 2021, IGT Sebino – 94pts. LW

The estate’s flagship red is both powerful and refined. Intense aromas of blue fruit, cassis, graphite, tobacco, and violet lead into a concentrated palate with fine chalky tannins and ample freshness. Already approachable, but with medium-term ageing potential.

Where to Buy: SAQ ($92.75), agent: Montalvin

Final Thoughts

From the approachable Cuvée Prestige Edizione 47 to the profound Annamaria Clementi 2016, the Ca’ del Bosco lineup reflects a philosophy of innovation and uncompromising quality. Every detail, from the berry spa to the use of only grape-derived dosage, underscores the estate’s pursuit of purity.

Franciacorta may still be among the lesser known terroirs for top-tier sparkling, but wines like these demonstrate the region’s unique personality. With their vinous structure, refined bubbles, and remarkable longevity, Ca’ del Bosco’s sparkling wines prove that this small corner of Lombardy deserves a place among the world’s great sparkling wine regions.

Education

Tasting Climate Change Wine Conference: Lessons Learnt at the 2024 Symposium

Posted on February 21, 2024
Climate Change Wine Conference

Last month in Montréal, an important event took place. Hundreds from the global wine trade gathered, in-person and online, to discuss the most pressing issues facing our industry. The two-day Tasting Climate Change conference saw renowned experts from around the world come together to raise awareness of the urgent changes we need to be making.

As we are now all too painfully aware, human-induced global warming has resulted in unprecedented changes to the Earth’s climate. According to the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC), the last decade has been warmer than any period in roughly 125 000 years. Concentrations of carbon dioxide in our atmosphere have been unmatched for over 2 million years. Glacial retreat is occurring at unprecedented levels. Water levels are rising, our oceans are warming, and they are acidifying.

No one, no industry, and no corner of the earth is impervious to these dramatic changes. In the wine world, the signs are all around us. Warming temperatures are pushing the vine’s growth cycle forward, exposing tender buds to increased risk of spring frost damage in many cooler areas. Extreme and/or erratic weather patterns have heightened the frequency and severity of hail, floods, wildfire outbreaks, drought, changing pest and disease pressures, or brutal vine killing winters. Every wine region has its own set of challenges.

And despite this dire situation, the Tasting Climate Change Symposium was far from a two-day gloom fest. “There is still a lot of hope out there” insisted conference founder and wine climate change expert, Michelle Bouffard, in her opening speech. “There are so many brilliant and passionate people working to find solutions”. This is what we experienced over two days of presentations and urgent dialogue.

Of course, it is impossible to dig deeply into a topic in a mere hour-long panel discussion. The point of the event wasn’t to gain consummate knowledge or come to any sort of resolution. The goal was to plant a seed; to inspire attendees to explore the issues further themselves, to share their learnings with the wider community, and to find new ways to collaborate.

Soil health and management were major topics. Marc-André Selosse PhD, Professor at Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle of Paris, explained that healthy soils, those teeming with life and rich in organic matter, are the most critical defense against water shortages, and anchor for strong, resilient vines.

Marc-André Selosse PhD, inspiring the audience at Tasting Climate Change 2024

Soil, as we know, is a massively important resource for carbon sequestration. Maintaining cover crops, increasing soil organic matter, reducing external inputs, diversifying crops were all explored in a fascinating session on regenerative agriculture with the technical directors or owners of Bonterra Organic Estates, Château Patache d’Aux, and Michel Gassier.

Etienne Neethling PhD, head of the international master programme in vine, wine, and terroir management at the Higher School of Agriculture in Angers, France presented his research on building climate resiliency into vineyards. One of Neethling’s current research focuses is the existing clonal diversity in many major wine grapes and their ability to boost climate resilience in vineyards.

Many regions are exploring potential shifts in Vitis vinifera varieties planted or introducing hardier hybrids. Instead, Neethling proposes an alternate route for vineyard regions firmly linked to their signature grapes. Planting a wider diversity of grape clones, with a mix of earlier and later ripening properties, and differing resistances to stresses like drought, cold, vineyard pests and diseases.

Representatives from the impressive Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand organization (SWNZ) and the Comité Champagne shared their work on measuring carbon footprint in wine production. Both regions are gunning for carbon neutrality by 2050.

In New Zealand, greater water efficiency, reduced diesel fuel usage, and zero waste to landfill are just three target areas. Among their many achievements, SWNZ has implemented personalized benchmarking reports for all certified wineries, that outline their total greenhouse gas emissions, with comparative industry totals.

In Champagne, an outright ban on pesticide use is in the works. Packaging, which accounts for up to 40% of a wine’s carbon footprint, is another major preoccupation here. While sparkling wine bottles need to be heavier to withstand the immense pressure within, improvements are possible. The Comité Champagne was able to lightweight their bottles from 900g to 835g and increased recycled glass usage to 96%, reducing CO2 emissions by 8000 tons annually.

Carbon Footprint Report, Comité Champagne

So many other great topics were explored, from ways to adapt to shifting pest and disease pressures, to the role of agroforestry in regulating climate and augmenting biodiversity, to the importance and potential confusions around the plethora of eco certifications that exist today.

The conference did indeed achieve its purpose. I saw countless exchanges between wineries, regional bodies, retailers, and journalists from across the globe – comparing notes and sharing best practices. For me, the biggest takeaway is that we must stop trying to dominate nature, but rather work within its bounds, harnessing nature’s innate power to provide its own solutions.

Rather than spraying fungicides, Matthieu Beauchemin, of Domaine du Nival, decided to create wind corridors and focus on aerating his vines, among other natural measures, to diminish mildew outbreaks. He also learned to live with low levels of fungal infections as part of the seasonal cycle.

The solutions proposed to a myriad of climate related issues throughout the two days, were creative, tailored to individual situations, and, moreover, focused on going beyond sustainability. They sought to improve and restore what has been lost.

For many of us, though, our part to play in fighting climate change remains nebulous. What can we do when we are not the producer, the transporter, or any other of the major greenhouse gas emitters in a wine’s lifecycle? So much…

We can choose what we promote to our audiences, be it followers or friends, and we can choose what we buy. We can boycott the big, heavy bottles, and instead champion the efforts of wineries, like Stratus Vineyards, who have chosen to put even their premium wines in featherweight (370 gram) bottles. We can also orient our drinking habits towards wines from sustainable or organic or, regeneratively farmed vineyards.

It may not always be clear what the most sustainable or ecologically conscious choice is, but if we start small, seeking out information on bottle stickers and back labels, asking questions at cellar doors, we can all make the tiny, incremental changes that collectively make a big impact.

Speakers from the Tasting Climate Change 2024 Conference
Education Wines

Abruzzo Wines: Exploring the (Under-Appreciated) Italian Home of Montepulciano

Posted on January 17, 2024

Abruzzo wines are often consumed as a cheap and cheerful pizza pairing but this mountainous region on the Adriatic coast has undergone an impressive quality revolution in recent years. Learn all about what makes Abruzzo wines so interesting in my latest video!

Montepulciano is the second most planted red grape variety in Italy. It thrives in the mountainous region of Abruzzo. While the Montepulicano d’Abruzzo DOC is one of the most productive appellations in the country, the region remains little known among wine lovers internationally.

Quality is skyrocketing, from the region’s larger co-operatives and wineries, to a new generation of independent growers. Learn all about Abruzzo’s grapes, appellations, terroir, and food scene in this short, Abruzzo Wine 101 video.

Education Reviews Wines

Your Holiday Sparkling Wine Style Guide

Posted on December 22, 2023
Your holiday sparkling wine guide

Browsing the sparkling wine aisle in December can be a daunting prospect. The shelves seem to groan under the weight of the vast selection. Quality has never been better at every price point, but good sparkling wine is still a premium purchase. Knowing a little bit about the different styles will help ensure you buy a bottle you will love.

First consider the sweetness level. Most sparkling wines use the same terminology.

  • Brut nature or Zero Dosage: no dosage (added sweetness). Bone-dry, often quite taut, perception of acidity is often heightened.
  • Extra Brut: Very subtle dosage. Dry. Slightly less austere on the palate than a zero dosage.
  • Brut: Subtle dosage. Still quite dry, but more rounded and fruitier.
  • Extra-Dry: Confusingly this term actually means off-dry (subtly sweet).
  • Dry: Semi sweet sparkling wines with pronounced fruitiness

Then, think about the origin or production method. Some of the most popular sparkling wines include:

Prosecco: The Party Favourite

Prosecco, from the north of Italy, is an affordable option for holiday parties. The style is fresh and light (11% – 11.5% alcohol) with a subtle pear drop, peachy, floral perfume. It drinks well on its own but also works well in Mimosa-type cocktails.

Its bubbles are generally softer and frothier than traditional method sparkling wines (like Champagne or Cava). This is due to the winemaking process – whereby bubbles are formed during a brief passage in large, pressurized tanks before early rapid bottling.

For the best quality Prosecco, look out for the top tier DOCG mention on the label, which is helpfully accompanied by the term Superiore. These Prosecco wines hail from the region’s best growing areas.

Recently tasted recommendations:

Fiol Prosecco DOC Extra Dry rosé ($20.25 at the SAQ) – pretty in pink, good value, fruity, easy-drinking, smooth bubbly

Canavel Campofalco, Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco DOCG Superiore ($30.75$ at the SAQ) – dry, elegant, and well-balanced, with a discreet orchard fruit, floral perfume

Cava: The Oft Underrated Option

Cava hails from the Catalonia region in northeastern Spain. It is produced using the same “traditional method” as Champagne. After an initial fermentation, wines are bottled and dosed with yeast and (usually) sugar to provoke a second fermentation in the bottle. Carbon dioxide released during this process is trapped in the bottle and dissolves into the liquid, forming bubbles.

Cava has two key differences from Champagne: firstly, the grapes in the blend are not the same, and secondly, the grape-growing climate is warmer. This translates as a broader sparkling wine, with softer acidity. Green apple, lemon, and earthy flavours are common. Most are very dry, in the Brut Nature to Brut range.

The longer a traditional method sparkling wine remains in contact with the yeast cells (called lees) after the second fermentation, the more complex the wine can become, developing a creamier more layered texture, finer bubbles, and toasty, nutty flavours. Longer-aged Cava wines are called Reserva or – for the longest aged tier – Gran Reserva.

Recently tasted recommendations:

Muga Conde de Haro Brut Reserva 2020 ($23.10 at the SAQ): Surprisingly textural and persistent for the price, with vigorous bubbles, and tempting baked apple, biscuit, earthy notes.

Juvé y Camps Reserva de la Familia Brut Nature ($23.95 at the SAQ), Juvé y Camps Brut Cava Rosé ($24.50 at the SAQ) – consistently good value Cava in a very dry, textured, lively style

Mestres Gran Reserva Brut Nature 2016 ($38.00 at the SAQ) – Complex, nutty, rich, and layered. Bone-dry without austerity. Lovely freshness and verve.

Crémant & other non-Champagne Traditional Method Bubblies : The Affordable Luxury

Crémant is a name given to sparkling wines from 7 French regions outside of Champagne including: the Loire Valley, Alsace, Burgundy, Bordeaux, the Jura, Limoux and Die. The grape varieties vary depending on the region.

Crémant wines often have bigger, more rounded bubbles than Champagne, making them feel a little rounder and more ample on the palate. The most affordable Crémants also tend to be fruitier as they are rarely aged for more than a year on their lees.

Recently tasted recommendations:

Louis Bouillot Perle Rare Crémant de Bourgogne 2019 ($24.45 as the SAQ) – broad, rounded, and fruity, in an easy-drinking, smooth style.

Domaine Vincent Carême Brut Vouvray mousseux 2021 ($25.65 at the SAQ) – clean, zesty citrus, honeyed undertones, fine, lively mousse, and zippy acidity

Domaine Baud Brut Sauvage, Crémant de Jura ($31 at the SAQ) – delicate floral, lemon, and brioche nuances, vibrant freshness, and a dry, earthy finish.

Side note… There are many countries producing first-rate traditional method sparkling wines outside of Spain and France. Canada is making excellent bubblies from coast to coast. Some of my favourite producers include: Lightfoot & Wolfville, Benjamin Bridge, Hinterland, Cave Spring, Henry of Pelman (Cuvée Catherine), Hidden Bench, Tantalus, Blue Mountain, Fitzpatrick Winery, and the list goes on!

Pét Nat: The Wild Child

Pét Nat stands for Pétillant Naturel (or naturally sparkling wine). It might seem like a recent trend, but the technique to make Pét Nat wines is actually the oldest sparkling wine process in the world. It is called the Ancestral Method.

The Ancestral Method, used for Pét Nat wines, consists of bottling a wine partway through its initial fermenting, as compared to the secondary fermentation of traditional method sparkling wines. There is quite a wide array of Pét Nat styles out there so they are hard to define.

They do tend to be quite low in alcohol (9.5 – 11%), with less vigorous bubbles, and flavours that are often more savoury, mineral, or herbal than fruity. Many are unfiltered so can be quite cloudy.

Recently tasted recommendations:

Domaine Fouet Pour Ma Gueule ($23.10 at the SAQ) – invigorating, ultra thirstquenching, bubbly with a rounded mid-palate and dry finish

Les Tètes, Tète Nat’ 2022 ($23.95 at the SAQ) – tangy green fruit flavours, piercing acidity, bone dry, precise palate with fine, well formed bubbles.

Francesco Cirelli Wines of Anarchy Frizzante ($25.10 at the SAQ) – earthy, savoury flavours mingle nicely with bright orchard fruit on this textural, bracing frizzante.

Champagne: The Luxury Choice

Champagne remains the obvious choice for special occasions. While many worthy contenders are cropping up from other wine regions, a well-made Champagne is still hard to beat in terms of its overall finesse.

What sets the best Champagnes apart? Firstly, the quality of their bubbles: ultra-fine, lively, and persistent. Secondly, the complexity of their aromas, blending mineral notes (flint, wet stone), with lees-aged nuances (brioche, biscuit), subtle florality, and tart fruit undertones.

The creamy, layered core of long lees aged Champagnes tempers their typical racy, high acidity, giving the wines a very harmonious mouthfeel. The long, vibrant finish of fine Champagne is another of its defining features.

Recently tasted recommendations:

There are so many lovely wines that I could list here, but I will stick to those sampled in the past few months that offer particularly good value for their price.

Champagne Fleury Blanc de Noirs Brut ($59.75 at the SAQ) – consistently good value blanc de noir with vivid fruit, smooth bubbles, a dry finish, and pleasing satin-like texture.

Champagne Ayala Brut Majeur ($68.50 at the SAQ) – attractive floral, orchard fruit nuances, ultra-fine mousse, lingering savoury, saline finish. Bone dry.

Champagne Palmer & Co Brut Réserve ($79.00 at the SAQ) – heady, tempting patisserie nuances balanced by racy, refreshing citrussy notes, lots of finesse.

Whether you choose to sip on light, fruity Prosecco, splash out on top Champagne, or venture further off-the-beaten track, I wish you all a very merry holiday season!

This Holiday Sparkling Wine Guide was originally published on Good Food Revolution. If you enjoy reading about artisinal food, wine, and spirits, check out this excellent online publication.

Education Wines

The Wines of Vinho Verde: Rustic Reds to New Wave Whites

Posted on November 22, 2023
Lima Valley, Vinho Verde

The wines of Vinho Verde are often described as light, bright, and easy-drinking. White wine lovers enjoy their low alcohol, refreshing, subtly sparkling palate, with just a touch of fruity sweetness on the finish. An affordable option in a sea of increasingly expensive wine choices.

This highly stereotypical description has been used for decades to sum up the wines of the verdant Minho region of northwest Portugal. The consistency and unique personality of Vinho Verde wines made for a simple branding message that has long resonated with casual wine drinkers around the world.

This global success has been a boon to the region, allowing for expansion, modernization, and most importantly, a wave of quality-focused winemakers.  Today, the wines of Vinho Verde are far more than a one-trick pony (stylistically speaking).

From Rustic Reds to Vibrant White Wines

Winemaking is not a new activity for the Minho area. The first literary references date back to the first century AD. The old Minho province was officially recognized as a wine region in 1908. At that time, and well into the latter half of the century, red wine dominated.

The agricultural focus was on dairy and corn. Vineyards were an afterthought, grown on the edges of fields, up trees or in overhead (pergola) canopies. The dense shading of these training methods, with cool winds and steady rain from the nearby Atlantic Ocean, made ripening a challenge and rot an ever-present concern. The wines were often thin, tart, and rough around the edges.

All that started to change in the late 1970s, with the advent of more modern winemaking practices including the introduction of inert tanks, temperature control, and a greater emphasis on cellar hygiene. This brought about a radical shift – to clean, fruity white wines with a subtle spritz of injected carbon dioxide to heighten their lively, early-drinking appeal.

The Blend & the Sum of Its Parts

While the Vinho Verde name has gained recognition among white wine lovers, the grapes that make up its blends have not. Over 45 different varieties are planted in the region. For white wines, the most common are Loureiro, Alvarinho, Arinto (aka Pedernã), Avesso, Azal Branco, and Trajadura.

Each grape had its role to play in the blend, Loureiro for its pretty floral aromatics, or its broader structure, Alvarinho for its vibrancy and its array of citrus, stone, and tropical fruit flavours, Arinto for its nervy minerality, Avesso for its creamy texture, Trajadura for its steely structure and so forth. However, the focus has traditionally always been the blend and not its component parts.

Fast forward to the late 1990s and all this began to change.

Vinho Verde’s Terroir Pioneers

The turn of the century brought with it a wave of new energy in Vinho Verde. A handful of respected winemakers, like Anselmo Mendes, Quinta da Soalheiro, and Quinta do Ameal, started setting their sights on more complex, age-worthy wines.

The vineyards of Vinho Verde are divided into nine sub-regions separated by the Minho, Lima, Cávado, Ave and Douro Rivers and their many tributaries. Each area is unique in its proximity or distance from the Atlantic, the influence of its waterways, its undulations, meso-climate, and so forth. Granitic sandy and loam-rich soils dominate throughout Vinho Verde, but several veins of schist traverse the region from south-east to northwest, and stony outcrops also exist in several areas.

Mendes and his contemporaries sought to dial into these sub-regional differences by creating specific blends or single variety bottlings that best expressed their place. In 1998, Mendes, a renowned Portuguese consulting winemaker, returned to his native Monção with this goal in mind.

The Vinho Verde sub-region of Monção and Melgaço is located in the northern reaches of the denomination, along the inland banks of the Minho River. Lower annual rainfall and warmer summer temperatures here create rich, structured Alvarinho wines with fragrant peach and exotic fruit notes.

Further south, other grapes found their groove.  The Lima Valley proved an ideal terroir for single variety Loureiro, with its highly refreshing, floral expression. The inland sub-region of Baião has more continental influences with warmer summers. Here, the late ripening Avesso grape shines; developing notable body and depth.

Terroir-focused single variety bottlings, as well as blends, have become increasingly prominent in recent years. Winemaking practices vary from traditional, unoaked, early bottled styles to longer aged, discreetly oaked wines.

Map credit: Comissão de Viticultura da Região dos Vinhos Verdes

Beyond White Wine

Once a second-class crop relegated to the periphery, Vinho Verde vineyards now span some 16 thousand hectares. The wines are produced by 370 wine bottlers across the region. White wine remains the undisputed focus accounting for over 85% of sales, but Vinho Verde rosé and red wine are gaining a niche following.

Sparkling wine from Vinho Verde – not the subtly spritzy – but properly effervescent espumante wines made using the tank, traditional, and now Pét Nat methods are also generating buzz, though they remain difficult to come by in most export markets.  

Quinta da Soalheiro was the first in the region to produce traditional method Alvarinho sparkling wine back in 1995. Almost thirty years later, they remain a reference for quality espumante, encouraging many to follow suit. Loureiro and Trajadura are also common choices for sparkling Vinho Verde.

Looking to the Future

Rainfall is high in much of Vinho Verde. While this makes for a lush, green landscape it also means that fungal disease is a constant threat. Despite this, some of Portugal’s leading names in biodynamic and in organic winemaking are based here.

In 2003, Vasco Croft took over abandoned family-owned vineyards in the Lima Valley. By year three he began converting the property to biodynamic farming and grew to over 20 hectares. The success of his estate, Aphros Wines, alongside fellow biodynamic great Fernando Paiva of Quinta da Palmirinha, is an inspiration to younger generations.

The list of certified organic wineries continues to grow, led by estates and négociants like Casa de Mouraz, Quinta das Arcas, Quinta de Santiago, and A&D Wines. Their efforts go far beyond prohibiting chemical vineyard treatments, to biodiversity initiatives, conservation initiatives, and an overall commitment to lowering carbon footprint.

A Tale of Two Vinho Verde

Those that love the simplicity of a crisp, light, spritzy Vinho Verde will not be lost in this brave new world of Vinho Verde wines. The region’s iconic style still makes up the brunt of its production. However, it is exciting to see how multi-faceted Vinho Verde wines have become.

New names of top Vinho Verde producers – from classic to avant-garde, traditional to natural – are cropping up all the time. Racy high acidity remains a hallmark of the region, across its sub-regional and single variety bottlings as well as its blends. However, fruit expressions, texture, and body vary more widely than ever before, offering something for every palate.

This article on The Wines of Vinho Verde is taken from a piece initially written for Good Food Revolution. If you love reading about artisinal wines, beers, and foods, check out this excellent website!

Education Wines

Italy’s Native Grape Varieties: Strength in Diversity

Posted on October 31, 2023
Italy's Native Grape Varieties

Among the many remarkable attributes of Italy’s wine industry, the sector’s resilience is surely its most impressive feature. The trials and tribulations, the production booms and busts, the sheer drama, and shocking scandals that Italian wine has overcome…

After all, who could forget the rash of 1980s methyl alcohol poisonings that left 19 wine drinkers dead and countless others with serious neurological deficits? Or the ignoble fake wines of the 1960s, where water and dregs from grape pressings were mixed with a variety of “ingredients” ranging from pureed figs to molasses to cattle blood.

Less dire but equally illicit are the countless discoveries of illegal grape blending, the most famous of which is perhaps the 2008 “Brunellogate” chapter. And yet, with every blow to their winemaking reputation—at home and internationally—Italy has always managed to rise from the ashes. Often, with the advantage of more stringent controls and a greater drive to boost wine quality.

Though Italian wine sales have flattened over the past year, in line with an international trend of slowing consumption and the global economic downturn, the UIV-Vinitaly Observatory indicates that the past 15 – 20 years have seen near uninterrupted export growth.

The Prosecco craze has had a lot to do with international (and domestic) volume growth in recent years. In value terms, Italy’s fine wine reputation has largely been carried by its famed regions like Barolo, Montalcino, Chianti Classico, or Amarone since the 1990s.

However, Italy has far more strings to its vinous bow than easy drinking bubbly and a handful of prestigious appellations. Sought-after wines are cropping up in all of Italy’s 20 wine producing regions, leading curious oenophiles to explore the country’s wealth of distinctive terroirs and indigenous varieties more closely than ever before.

Indeed, Italy’s native grapes are its greatest strength.

Estimates vary, but according to Italian wine expert, Ian D’Agata, Italy grows roughly 2,000 autochthonous cultivars. Nearly 400 of these grapes are produced in commercially significant volumes. The numbers are growing steadily as once forgotten grapes like Timorasso, Schioppettino, or Recantina make a comeback.

Why is this important? Because Italy’s indigenous varieties are an essential part of the country’s cultural heritage. They also set Italy apart from most other significant wine-producing regions. The International Organisation of Vine and Wine indicates that one-third of vineyards world-wide are planted to just 13 international grapes. In comparison, seven of Italy’s top ten most planted grapes are local.

“Native wine grapes hail from a particular place and region, and express a terroir unlike that of grapes cultivated anywhere else in the world. They are also specifically adapted to the environment in which they grow, representing the most ecologically friendly agriculture possible.” – Ian D’Agata, Club Oenologique.

The movement among Italy’s quality-minded grape growers to renew their focus on local varieties and resurrect forgotten cultivars was initially a question of preservation. Now, many are looking to indigenous grapes as the best local response to climate change challenges.

Countless numbers of Italian grapes were lost in the aftermath of the powdery mildew and Phylloxera ravages at the turn of the 20th century. Vineyards were replanted with maximum economic return in mind, with grapes that produced the largest yields and ripened earlier and more consistently.

Many later maturing grapes – that struggled to reach full ripeness most years – were forsaken, but for a handful of traditional growers. As temperatures continue to soar and harvest dates are moving alarmingly forward, late ripening varieties are becoming increasingly important.

Drought resistance is another essential grape attribute in a warming environment. The torrid conditions of Italy’s southern wine regions are not new. Over the centuries, many of their local grapes have learned to thrive with very little water. As more northerly regions begin to mirror the hot, dry conditions of Italy’s south, these varieties will likely migrate northward; a phenomenon already being seen in certain Tuscan vineyards.

Italy has several significant geographical advantages in terms of weathering the current intense heat spells associated with climate change. Coastal vineyards on its peninsular mainland and islands benefit from cooling marine breezes. Many of its inland regions are crisscrossed by lakes and rivers that also temper extremes. Finally, its mountainous interior has allowed many producers to move upwards in search of cooler vineyard sites.

Despite this, grape growing is becoming ever more challenging and unpredictable. The 2023 growing season was not kind to wine producers in central and southern Italy. Heavy rains, flooding, hailstorms, drought, and widespread downy mildew all conspired to slash harvests by 20% to 30%, according to local reports.

Italian wine lobby groups UIV and Assoenologi estimate a 12% decrease in volume output as compared to 2022, meaning that after a long hiatus, France has overtaken Italy as the world’s leading wine producer. While the news isn’t good for Italy, it will hopefully allow oversupply in certain regions to decrease.

Only time will tell how the world’s major vineyards fare, faced with over-production, climate threats, and changing consumer patterns. If there is one country that can weather the storm, as they have done for so many millennia, it is certainly Italy.

This piece on Italy’s Native Grape Varieties is re-printed (with permission) from my article written for Good Food Revolution. If you want to learn more about artisanal food, wine, beer and spirits, check out their excellent website.

Education

Low Alcohol Wine Guide Video: What you Need to Know…!

Posted on October 15, 2023

Low alcohol wine is becoming more popular as people strive to make healthier lifestyle choices. But…what actually are low alcohol wines? How is it made? What does lower alcohol wine taste like? Where can I find the best low alcohol wines? Is zero alcohol wine any good?

For answers to all these questions and more, join me, Jacky Blisson, Master of Wine for a quick low alcohol wine guide….complete with a list of good lower alcohol wine options.

Education

Why are Some Wines Aged in Oak? Short Video.

Posted on October 7, 2023
Why are some wines aged in oak

Why are some wines aged in oak barrels? Wine ageing in oak can benefit certain wine styles; integrating flavours, softening tannins, and adding complexity.

What is an oaked wine? How is wine aged? What is the difference between French oak and American oak? Check out my latest wine education video below to learn all about it.

N.B. Oak is not the only type of wood used to age wine. Chestnut, Acacia, and Cherry wood are favoured in some areas. Oak for wine barrels can also originate from many other areas. This short video just covers the most common styles.

Education Wines

Vinho Verde Wines… The Serious Side

Posted on September 30, 2023
Vinho Verde Wines

Vinho Verde wines. The ultimate in light, bright, easy-drinking whites. Low in alcohol, refreshing, subtly sparkling, and with just a touch of fruity sweetness on the finish. An affordable option in a sea of increasingly expensive wine choices.

This highly stereotypical description has been used for decades to sum up the wines of the verdant Minho region of northwest Portugal. The consistency and unique personality of Vinho Verde wines made for a simple branding message that has long resonated with casual wine drinkers around the world.

This global success has been a boon to the region, allowing for expansion, modernization, and, most importantly, a wave of quality-focused winemakers. Stylistically, the Vinho Verde wines of today are far more than a one-trick pony.

From Rustic Reds to Modern White Vinho Verde Wines

Winemaking is not a new activity for the Minho area. The first literary references date back to the first century AD. The old Minho province was officially recognized as a wine region in 1908. At that time, and well into the latter half of the century, red wine dominated.

The agricultural focus was on dairy and corn. Vineyards were an afterthought, grown on the edges of fields, up trees, or in overhead (pergola) canopies. The dense shading of these training methods, combined with cool winds and steady rain from the nearby Atlantic Ocean, made ripening a challenge and rot an ever-present concern. The wines were often thin, tart, and rough around the edges.

Vinho Verde History. Photo credit: Photo: Casa Alvão/ Comissão de Viticultura da Região dos Vinhos Verdes

All that started to change in the late 1970s, with the advent of more modern winemaking practices, including the introduction of inert tanks, temperature control, and a greater emphasis on cellar hygiene. This brought about a radical shift – to clean, fruity white wines with a subtle spritz of injected carbon dioxide to heighten their lively, early-drinking appeal.

Vinho Verde Wines : The Blend and the Sum of its Parts

While the Vinho Verde name has gained recognition among white wine lovers, the grapes that make up its blends have not. Over 45 different varieties are planted in the region. For white wines, the most common are Loureiro, Alvarinho, Arinto (aka Pedernã), Avesso, Azal Branco, and Trajadura.

Each grape had its role to play in the blend, Loureiro for its pretty floral aromatics or its broader structure, Alvarinho for its vibrancy and its array of citrus, stone, and tropical fruit flavours, Arinto for its nervy minerality, Avesso for its creamy texture, Trajadura for its steely structure and so forth. However, the focus has traditionally always been the blend and not its component parts.

Fast forward to the late 1990s, and all this began to change.

Vinho Verde Wines Terroir Pioneers

The turn of the century brought with it a wave of new energy in Vinho Verde. A handful of respected winemakers, like Anselmo Mendes, Quinta da Soalheiro, and Quinta do Ameal, started setting their sights on more complex, age-worthy wines.

The vineyards of Vinho Verde are divided into nine sub-regions separated by the Minho, Lima, Cávado, Ave and Douro Rivers and their many tributaries. Each area is unique in its proximity or distance from the Atlantic, the influence of its waterways, its undulations, meso-climate, and so forth. Granitic sandy and loam-rich soils dominate throughout Vinho Verde, but several veins of schist traverse the region from south-east to northwest, and stony outcrops also exist in several areas.

Mendes and his contemporaries sought to dial into these sub-regional differences by creating specific blends or single variety bottlings that best expressed their place. In 1998, Mendes, a renowned Portuguese consulting winemaker, returned to his native Monção with this goal in mind.

Anselmo Mendes. Photo Credit: Anselmo Mendes Vinhos

The Vinho Verde sub-region of Monção and Melgaço is located in the northern reaches of the denomination, along the inland banks of the Minho River. Lower annual rainfall and warmer summer temperatures here create rich, structured Alvarinho wines with fragrant peach and exotic fruit notes.

Further south, other grapes found their groove.  The Lima Valley proved an ideal terroir for single variety Loureiro, with its highly refreshing, floral expression. The inland sub-region of Baião has more continental influences with warmer summers. Here, the late ripening Avesso grape shines; developing notable body and depth.

Terroir-focused single variety bottlings, as well as blends, have become increasingly prominent in recent years. Winemaking practices vary from traditional, unoaked, early bottled styles to longer aged, discreetly oaked wines.

Beyond White Vinho Verde Wines

Once a second-class crop relegated to the periphery, Vinho Verde vineyards now span some 16 thousand hectares. The wines are produced by 370 wine bottlers across the region. White wine remains the undisputed focus, accounting for over 85% of sales, but Vinho Verde rosé and red wine are gaining a niche following.

Sparkling wine from Vinho Verde – not the subtly spritzy – but properly effervescent espumante wines made using the tank, traditional, and now Pét Nat methods are also generating buzz, though they remain difficult to come by in most export markets.

Quinta da Soalheiro was the first in the region to produce traditional method Alvarinho sparkling wine back in 1995. Almost thirty years later, they remain a reference for quality espumante, encouraging many to follow suit. Loureiro and Trajadura are also common choices for sparkling Vinho Verde.

Looking to the Future

Rainfall is high in much of Vinho Verde. While this makes for a lush, green landscape, it also means that fungal disease is a constant threat. Despite this, some of Portugal’s leading names in biodynamic and in organic winemaking are based here.

Vinho Verde Wines. Douro River Region. Photo Credit: Comissão de Viticultura da Região dos Vinhos Verdes

In 2003, Vasco Croft took over abandoned family-owned vineyards in the Lima Valley. By year three he began converting the property to biodynamic farming, and grew to over 20 hectares. The success of his estate, Aphros Wines, alongside fellow biodynamic great Fernando Paiva of Quinta da Palmirinha, is an inspiration to younger generations.

The list of certified organic wineries continues to grow, led by estates and négociants like Casa de Mouraz, Quinta das Arcas, Quinta de Santiago, and A&D Wines. Their efforts go far beyond prohibiting chemical vineyard treatments, to biodiversity initiatives, conservation initiatives, and an overall commitment to lowering carbon footprint.

A Tale of Two Vinho Verde Wines

Those who love the simplicity of a crisp, light, spritzy Vinho Verde will not be lost in this brave new world of Vinho Verde wines. The region’s iconic style still makes up the bulk of its production. However, it is exciting to see how multi-faceted Vinho Verde wines have become.

New names of top Vinho Verde producers – from classic to avant-garde, traditional to natural – are cropping up all the time. Racy high acidity remains a hallmark of the region, across its sub-regional and single variety bottlings as well as its blends. However, fruit expressions, texture, and body vary more widely than ever before, offering something for every palate.

This Vinho Verde Wines piece is re-printed (with permission) from my article written for Good Food Revolution. If you want to learn more about artisanal food, wine, beer and spirits, check out their excellent website.

Education Reviews Wines

Where did all the Santorini White Wine Go?

Posted on June 6, 2023
Island of Santorini

I recently attended a tasting of impressive Santorini white wine. The Assyrtiko grape had fallen off my radar recently and I was glad to be reacquainted with the crisp, steely, mineral-laced style typical to this Greek volcanic island.

Given the trends among more involved wine enthusiasts, towards sustainably produced wines, indigenous varieties, “authentic” wine regions, and lighter, more vibrant wines, I would have thought that Santorini white wines would be rising in popularity.

A few years back, Assyrtiko white wines – from Santorini and across Greece – flooded my local wine shops each summer. I regularly had one chilling in my fridge. A quick search of SAQ and LCBO offerings showed me why I had forgotten Santorini’s signature grape. They are all gone.

Santorini’s Low Yields of Old Vine White Wines

Santorini is an island in the southern Aegean Sea, some 200 kilometres southeast of mainland Greece. In 1650 B.C., Santorini experienced one of the largest volcanic eruptions ever documented. The island is part of the Hellenic Volcanic Arc, one of the most significant volcanic fields in Europe – still very much active today.

Santorini’s soils are a mix of lava, volcanic ash, and pumice stone. The lack of clay and thus organic matter provides a barrier against many pests and diseases, most notably phylloxera. As such, the island’s vines are own-rooted, with a significant number of venerable old vines.

The climate is hot and very dry. Despite this, vineyards are not irrigated. Humidity from sea breezes is absorbed by the volcanic soils. The intensity of the winds that buffet the island is too much for a trellised vineyard. Vines are therefore trained in a unique spiral, whereby vine canes are “woven” into a basket shape with the grapes growing inside this protective shield.

Leading Santorini wine producer, Santo Wines, explains that “the bigger the basket, the older the plant, with some of them boasting a root system more than 200 years old”. This ground level basket training system, called Kouloura, means back-breaking labour that can only be accomplished by hand.

The combination of a hot, dry, windy climate, and kouloura vine training, equates to very low yields. Many growers indicate a mere 10 – 20 hectolitres/ hectare harvest level. Put in perspective, this is far less than yields derived from Grand Cru Bourgogne plots. Combine this with the rough estimate given to me of 1500 hectares total acreage for Santorini and you quickly realize how little wine is produced annually.

The Unique Flavour of Santorini’s Signature Grape

No photo description available.
Photo credit: Wines of Greece (Kouloura trained Assyrtiko vine)

While most varieties of Vitis vinifera are happiest in Mediterranean climates, the particularly dry, windy conditions of Santorini would be inhospitable to many. Happily, the region found its perfect grape thousands of years ago: the white variety, Assyrtiko.

According to Wines of Greece, Santorini boasts Assyrtiko vineyards that date back 3500 years. Assyrtiko thrives in Santorini’s dry, volcanic soils. Despite the heat, Assyrtiko maintains vibrant, high acidity as the grape matures. It is not uncommon to taste Assyrtiko wines at over 14% alcohol with a level of crisp, refreshing acidity that belies their evident ripeness.

Santorini white wines are rarely overtly fruity. Assyrtiko tends toward an earthier, wet stone or oyster shell type minerality on the nose. The grape’s ripeness presents itself more on the palate, in its weighty structure, layered texture, and slight phenolic (tannic) edge.

Of course, the island also produces leaner, fruitier styles of Assyrtiko – often from younger vines or less favourable vineyard sites, but given its small production, more and more producers are focusing on premium Assyrtiko wines, of the former style.

Assyrtiko wines are often unoaked, though in line with a move toward more premium winemaking, many producers are experimenting with longer ageing, extended lees contact, and carefully managed oak ageing.  Nykteri is the name given to Santorini dry white wines, left to hang longer on the vines, with a short period of skin contact in the winery, and a period of barrel ageing.

The island also makes very limited quantities of stunning Vinsanto. The grapes for these luscious, sweet wines are left to partially desiccate in the sun for a couple of weeks before a long, slow fermentation. After a few years of barrel ageing, they are an amber coloured liquid ambrosia.

So why has all the Santorini White Wine Disappeared?

The Santorini white wines that featured on wine store end aisles five years ago all sat at an “entry premium” dollar value in the high teens to low twenties. The labour involved and low yields meant that these wines were ludicrously under priced and not a sustainable way forward for the island’s producers.  However, when prices were raised, sales slowed, and the listings were dropped.

A while back, I interviewed Jermaine Stone, hip hop artist turned fine wine auction director, now owner of wine importing and consultancy firm, Cru Luv Selections. We were chatting about perceived wine value from one region to another and compared with other luxury goods.

Stone gave examples of teenagers saving up for Yeezy sneakers they know they will outgrow or a middle-income worker shelling out on a Balenciaga handbag.  Few regions have managed this feat of creating a luxury aura around their wines. “People have the money. They just don’t have the reverence for the product” according to Stone. “If they don’t think it’s special, they won’t want it”.

With yields as low as they are, it isn’t necessarily a bad thing that Santorini white wine sales are no longer focused on volume-driven outlets like monopoly wine stores. As the quality rises, the wines deserve a hand-selling approach built around creating that necessary reverence. But who will step forward as the region’s champion among Canada’s sommeliers and fine wine buyers? Only time will tell…

Santo Wines, Santorini
Photo credit: Santo Wines

A Handful of recently tasted Interesting Santorini White Wines

Domaine Sigalas Santorini 2022 – 92pts.

Discreet green citrus, wild herbal, and flinty aromas feature on the nose. The palate invigorates with its high, lip-smacking acidity, chalky texture, and lingering salinity. Light and dry with lots of verve, this 100% Assyrtiko is fermented stainless steel and aged for three months, with regular lees stirring.

Gaia Wines “Thalassitis” Santorini 2021 – 90pts.

Sourced from sixty-year-old Assyrtiko vineyards. Earthy, wet stone hints mingle with fragrant yellow apple and apricot aromas. These ripe fruited notes give way to tangy citrus flavours on the palate. Racy and medium weight, with pleasant grapefruit pith bitters that lift the finish.

Santo Wines Santorini Assyrtiko 2022 – 89pts.

Sixty- to eighty-year-old vines, grown at 400 metres altitude. Macerated six hours on skins before fermenting in stainless steel and brief ageing. Light-bodied, with nervy flavours of lime, gooseberry, and earthy minerals. Piercing acidity and a taut structure give this very dry wine a tingly, electric sensation on the palate.

Estate Argyros Cuvee Monsignori Santorini 2020 – 94pts.

Venerable old vines (estimated at 200 years in age), fermented with wild years and aged for ten months on fine lees in stainless steel tanks. Subtle, yet highly attractive white floral, flinty, smoky nuances on the nose. Initially silky on the palate, building up to a powerful structural crescendo. Savoury and saline, with a long finish of refreshing, grapefruit pith bitters.

Gaia Santorini Wild Ferment 2022 – 91pts.

Seventy- to eighty-year-old vines. Native yeast fermentation in stainless steel, oak, and acacia barrels, followed by twelve months’ ageing. Reminiscent of a Graves white Bordeaux nose. The palate is full-bodied, with bracing acidity and a creamy mid-palate. Juicy flavours of apricots and nectarines balance the hints of toasty, spiced oak nicely. Very powerful. Hold for one to two years or decant.

Santo Wines Nykteri 2021 – 90pts.

85% Assyrtiko, blended with secondary white grapes Athiri and Aidani. Fifty-year-old vines. Blend is aged six months in French oak foudres. Pretty aromas of white flowers, beeswax, wet stone, and preserved lemon play across the nose. Very youthful on the palate with its firm acidity, structure, and tannins. Hints of juicy apple flavours emerge with aeration. Needs time to soften.

Sigalis Santorini Barrel 2021 91pts.

Aged in French oak barrels (10% new) for eight months, this 100% Assyrtiko wine is sourced from selected blocks of sixty year+ aged plots across the island. Complex notes of ripe stone fruit mingle with wild herbs, spring blossoms, and exotic spice on the nose. The palate is rounded and fleshy, lifted by brisk acidity that accentuates lingering salty hints on the finish.

This “Santorini White Wine” piece is re-printed (with permission) from my article written for Good Food Revolution. If you want to learn more about artisanal food, wine, beer and spirits, check out their excellent website.