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Abruzzo Wines: Exploring the (Under-Appreciated) Italian Home of Montepulciano

Posted on January 17, 2024

Abruzzo wines are often consumed as a cheap and cheerful pizza pairing but this mountainous region on the Adriatic coast has undergone an impressive quality revolution in recent years. Learn all about what makes Abruzzo wines so interesting in my latest video!

Montepulciano is the second most planted red grape variety in Italy. It thrives in the mountainous region of Abruzzo. While the Montepulicano d’Abruzzo DOC is one of the most productive appellations in the country, the region remains little known among wine lovers internationally.

Quality is skyrocketing, from the region’s larger co-operatives and wineries, to a new generation of independent growers. Learn all about Abruzzo’s grapes, appellations, terroir, and food scene in this short, Abruzzo Wine 101 video.

Your Holiday Sparkling Wine Style Guide

Posted on December 22, 2023

Browsing the sparkling wine aisle in December can be a daunting prospect. The shelves seem to groan under the weight of the vast selection. Quality has never been better at every price point, but good sparkling wine is still a premium purchase. Knowing a little bit about the different styles will help ensure you buy a bottle you will love.

First consider the sweetness level. Most sparkling wines use the same terminology.

Brut nature or Zero Dosage: no dosage (added sweetness). Bone-dry, often quite taut, perception of acidity is often heightened.
Extra Brut: Very subtle dosage. Dry. Slightly less austere on the palate than a zero dosage.
Brut: Subtle dosage. Still quite dry, but more rounded and fruitier.
Extra-Dry: Confusingly this term actually means off-dry (subtly sweet).
Dry: Semi sweet sparkling wines with pronounced fruitiness

Then, think about the origin or production method. Some of the most popular sparkling wines include:

Prosecco: The Party Favourite

Prosecco, from the north of Italy, is an affordable option for holiday parties. The style is fresh and light (11% – 11.5% alcohol) with a subtle pear drop, peachy, floral perfume. It drinks well on its own but also works well in Mimosa-type cocktails.

Its bubbles are generally softer and frothier than traditional method sparkling wines (like Champagne or Cava). This is due to the winemaking process – whereby bubbles are formed during a brief passage in large, pressurized tanks before early rapid bottling.

For the best quality Prosecco, look out for the top tier DOCG mention on the label, which is helpfully accompanied by the term Superiore. These Prosecco wines hail from the region’s best growing areas.

Recently tasted recommendations:

Fiol Prosecco DOC Extra Dry rosé ($20.25 at the SAQ) – pretty in pink, good value, fruity, easy-drinking, smooth bubbly

Canavel Campofalco, Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco DOCG Superiore ($30.75$ at the SAQ) – dry, elegant, and well-balanced, with a discreet orchard fruit, floral perfume

Cava: The Oft Underrated Option

Cava hails from the Catalonia region in northeastern Spain. It is produced using the same “traditional method” as Champagne. After an initial fermentation, wines are bottled and dosed with yeast and (usually) sugar to provoke a second fermentation in the bottle. Carbon dioxide released during this process is trapped in the bottle and dissolves into the liquid, forming bubbles.

Cava has two key differences from Champagne: firstly, the grapes in the blend are not the same, and secondly, the grape-growing climate is warmer. This translates as a broader sparkling wine, with softer acidity. Green apple, lemon, and earthy flavours are common. Most are very dry, in the Brut Nature to Brut range.

The longer a traditional method sparkling wine remains in contact with the yeast cells (called lees) after the second fermentation, the more complex the wine can become, developing a creamier more layered texture, finer bubbles, and toasty, nutty flavours. Longer-aged Cava wines are called Reserva or – for the longest aged tier – Gran Reserva.

Recently tasted recommendations:

Muga Conde de Haro Brut Reserva 2020 ($23.10 at the SAQ): Surprisingly textural and persistent for the price, with vigorous bubbles, and tempting baked apple, biscuit, earthy notes.

Juvé y Camps Reserva de la Familia Brut Nature ($23.95 at the SAQ), Juvé y Camps Brut Cava Rosé ($24.50 at the SAQ) – consistently good value Cava in a very dry, textured, lively style

Mestres Gran Reserva Brut Nature 2016 ($38.00 at the SAQ) – Complex, nutty, rich, and layered. Bone-dry without austerity. Lovely freshness and verve.

Crémant & other non-Champagne Traditional Method Bubblies : The Affordable Luxury

Crémant is a name given to sparkling wines from 7 French regions outside of Champagne including: the Loire Valley, Alsace, Burgundy, Bordeaux, the Jura, Limoux and Die. The grape varieties vary depending on the region.

Crémant wines often have bigger, more rounded bubbles than Champagne, making them feel a little rounder and more ample on the palate. The most affordable Crémants also tend to be fruitier as they are rarely aged for more than a year on their lees.

Recently tasted recommendations:

Louis Bouillot Perle Rare Crémant de Bourgogne 2019 ($24.45 as the SAQ) – broad, rounded, and fruity, in an easy-drinking, smooth style.

Domaine Vincent Carême Brut Vouvray mousseux 2021 ($25.65 at the SAQ) – clean, zesty citrus, honeyed undertones, fine, lively mousse, and zippy acidity

Domaine Baud Brut Sauvage, Crémant de Jura ($31 at the SAQ) – delicate floral, lemon, and brioche nuances, vibrant freshness, and a dry, earthy finish.

Side note… There are many countries producing first-rate traditional method sparkling wines outside of Spain and France. Canada is making excellent bubblies from coast to coast. Some of my favourite producers include: Lightfoot & Wolfville, Benjamin Bridge, Hinterland, Cave Spring, Henry of Pelman (Cuvée Catherine), Hidden Bench, Tantalus, Blue Mountain, Fitzpatrick Winery, and the list goes on!

Pét Nat: The Wild Child

Pét Nat stands for Pétillant Naturel (or naturally sparkling wine). It might seem like a recent trend, but the technique to make Pét Nat wines is actually the oldest sparkling wine process in the world. It is called the Ancestral Method.

The Ancestral Method, used for Pét Nat wines, consists of bottling a wine partway through its initial fermenting, as compared to the secondary fermentation of traditional method sparkling wines. There is quite a wide array of Pét Nat styles out there so they are hard to define.

They do tend to be quite low in alcohol (9.5 – 11%), with less vigorous bubbles, and flavours that are often more savoury, mineral, or herbal than fruity. Many are unfiltered so can be quite cloudy.

Recently tasted recommendations:

Domaine Fouet Pour Ma Gueule ($23.10 at the SAQ) – invigorating, ultra thirstquenching, bubbly with a rounded mid-palate and dry finish

Les Tètes, Tète Nat’ 2022 ($23.95 at the SAQ) – tangy green fruit flavours, piercing acidity, bone dry, precise palate with fine, well formed bubbles.

Francesco Cirelli Wines of Anarchy Frizzante ($25.10 at the SAQ) – earthy, savoury flavours mingle nicely with bright orchard fruit on this textural, bracing frizzante.

Champagne: The Luxury Choice

Champagne remains the obvious choice for special occasions. While many worthy contenders are cropping up from other wine regions, a well-made Champagne is still hard to beat in terms of its overall finesse.

What sets the best Champagnes apart? Firstly, the quality of their bubbles: ultra-fine, lively, and persistent. Secondly, the complexity of their aromas, blending mineral notes (flint, wet stone), with lees-aged nuances (brioche, biscuit), subtle florality, and tart fruit undertones.

The creamy, layered core of long lees aged Champagnes tempers their typical racy, high acidity, giving the wines a very harmonious mouthfeel. The long, vibrant finish of fine Champagne is another of its defining features.

Recently tasted recommendations:

There are so many lovely wines that I could list here, but I will stick to those sampled in the past few months that offer particularly good value for their price.

Champagne Fleury Blanc de Noirs Brut ($59.75 at the SAQ) – consistently good value blanc de noir with vivid fruit, smooth bubbles, a dry finish, and pleasing satin-like texture.

Champagne Ayala Brut Majeur ($68.50 at the SAQ) – attractive floral, orchard fruit nuances, ultra-fine mousse, lingering savoury, saline finish. Bone dry.

Champagne Palmer & Co Brut Réserve ($79.00 at the SAQ) – heady, tempting patisserie nuances balanced by racy, refreshing citrussy notes, lots of finesse.

Whether you choose to sip on light, fruity Prosecco, splash out on top Champagne, or venture further off-the-beaten track, I wish you all a very merry holiday season!

This Holiday Sparkling Wine Guide was originally published on Good Food Revolution. If you enjoy reading about artisinal food, wine, and spirits, check out this excellent online publication.

Life Reviews Wines

How Much are You Willing to Pay for a Bottle of Wine?

Posted on December 5, 2023

How much would you pay for a bottle of wine? It is a question that avid wine enthusiasts get asked all the time. And it isn’t an easy one to answer. After all, the notion of worth is deeply personal and depends on so many factors.

An invitation to attend a press screening of Wine Masters TV’s new film, “”The Most Expensive Wine in the World,” has me pondering the subject. The documentary follows the story of Loïc Pasquet, controversial Bordeaux winemaker.

The famous Left Bank classification of crus classés wines from Bordeaux dates back to 1855. Aside from the addition of the Château Cantemerle and promotion of Château Mouton Rothschild, the rankings have not changed in almost 170 years. But the wines have…

This is Pasquet’s premise. The wines ranked by request of Napolean III carry little resemblance to today’s versions. Many of the grape varieties used then are no longer commonly grown, and Bordeaux’ vines are now grafted onto American rootstocks.

Pasquet therefore set about replicating pre-Phylloxera conditions in his Graves vineyard: planting 20,000 vines-per-hectare, individually staked, ungrafted, with both well-known grapes, such as Petite Vidure (aka Cabernet Sauvignon), and quite rare, ancient Bordeaux grapes like Pardotte, Castet, and Tarney.

The wine, Liber Pater, sells for somewhere in the neighbourhood of $50,000 CAD/ bottle.

When people gasp at the price, as you may have just done, Pasquet is ready with any number of replies. In the documentary trailer he says, “What is the price we are ready to pay to have dinner with Napoleon”?

He attributes historical importance to his project, and claims he is “saving the taste of Bordeaux”. For Pasquet, the wine, its ethos, its craftsmanship, its label, everything about it is art. No one balks at a prestigious painting fetching far higher prices than this.

In essence, the story of Liber Pater has all of the necessary attributes to create a cult following… A sense of being part of something important, bigger than all of us, rare, unique, exciting. Whether you believe the hype or not, you must admit that it is intriguing.

The idea takes me back to a conversation I had a few months ago with Jermaine Stone (aka the Real Wolf of Wine). Stone is a hip-hop artist, turned fine wine auction director, turned fine wine importer in New York.

We discussed the notion, often expressed in the media, that wine is becoming too expensive, and that younger people can no longer afford to drink it. In Stone’s experience, this is simply not true. “People have the money” he insists. “They just don’t have the reverence for the product”.

“Do you think Millennials just woke up wanting to buy Balenciaga bags for $9000?” he adds. “My son is 16. He’s spending $750 on a pair of yeezy sneakers that he’s already outgrown”. For Stone, it is all about educating people, showing them what is special about a wine to create that sense of desire.

At a recent sneak preview of fine wine lots from an Iron Gate auction, I got a chance to witness the power of creating reverence first-hand. Collectors had gathered from across the province to taste the wines and trade anecdotes about their most memorable wines.

They seemed to feed off each other’s passion and enthusiasm, each wanting to tell their stories and talk about the time and energy they put into building their collections. Their eyes shone as they listened to the sommeliers describing the wines to sample.

It brings me back to my original point about how personal the notion of worth can be. At the end of the day, we all have items that we are willing to splurge on and others for which we bargain shop. Wine and food will always be a worthy expense for me…though my idea of a splurge will likely never hit the four-figure (or even the high three figure) mark per bottle.

In the meantime, here are some of the stand out luxury wines that I have had the good fortune to taste recently. Sadly, they are all

Yalumba “The Caley” 2018, Australia – 96pts. LW

This is a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon from Yalumba’s prized Menzies vineyard in Coonawarra, with 20% Shiraz mainly from their Horseshoe vineyard in the Barossa sub-region of Eden Valley. The wine is matured for almost two years in new, one, and two-year old French oak barrels.

Heady notes of exotic spice and licorice mingle with wafts of red currant, black plum, spearmint, and cedar on the nose. The palate is bold yet refreshing, with lovely tension and impressive concentration. Velvety, well-formed tannins frame the long finish nicely.

Where to Buy: SAQ (2016 vintage, $515), inquire with agent: Elixirs Vins & Spiritueux

Renato Ratti Barolo “Rocche dell’Annunziata” 2016, Italy – 97pts. LW

The Rocche dell’Annunziata vineyard is one of the most revered crus of La Morra. The southwest facing hillside forms a natural amphitheatre. Its terroir of sandy soils gives a very perfumed, elegant expression of Barolo, according to the team at Renatto Ratti.

The 2016 vintage is spectacular: powerful and hugely complex. Layers of dried flowers, provençal herbs, red cherry, and orange peel emerge with aeration, underscored by earthy, savoury notes. Brisk acidity lifts the weighty palate, giving an impression of finesse throughout. Already approachable with well integrated, fine-grained tannins.

Where to Buy: SAQ ($121, sadly sold out. Inquire with agent: Montalvin)

Catena Zapata Nicasia Vineyard 2019, Argentina – 94pts. LW

The Nicaisa vineyard is located in the southerly region of Altamira, in the La Consulta district of the Uco Valley. The massal selections of Malbec planted here grow at a towering 1,095 metres altitude on gravelly, loam rich soils with excellent drainage.

A truly hedonistic nose, with its aromas of blueberry pie, plum jam, violets, baking spice, and underlying hints of thyme. In contrast, the mouthfeel is pleasingly brisk and taut with excellent depth of flavour and notable peppery spice. Needs a few years cellaring to tame its muscular tannins.

Where to Buy: Inquire with agent: Elixirs Vins & Spiritueux

Champagne Palmer “Grands Terroirs” 2015 – 94pts. LW

This vintage cuvée, sourced exclusively from 1er and Grand Cru terroirs, is only produced in the best growing seasons. It is a blend of 50% Chardonnay, 38% Pinot Noir, and 12% Meunier, with six years ageing on the lees. The maison calls it their “homage to the Montagne de Reims”.

Tempting aromas of roasted hazelnut, brioche, citrus blossoms, and baked apple feature on the nose. The palate boasts great tension and fine, lively bubbles, ably balancing the creamy, layered core. A bold, structured style of brut Champagne, with lingering tangy green fruit and nutty undertones.

Where to Buy: Inquire with agent: Vins Arterra

Champagne Ayala “La Perle” 2013 – 95pts. LW

The “La Perle” cuvée from Ayala is mainly composed of Chardonnay, with a small portion of Pinot Noir from the estate’s Grand Cru holdings in Chouilly, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, and Aÿ. The wine was aged for almost nine years on the lees. Each bottle was hand riddled and manually disgorged.

The 2013 is electric in its vibrancy. Intense notes of lemon zest, peach, exotic spice, hazelnut, and savoury nuances play across the nose. The mousse is quite subtle, giving a vinous style on the palate. Initially racy and taut, broadening and deepening on the mid-palate to culminate in a very long, dry saline finish with attractive citrus and sourdough hints.

Where to Buy: SAQ ($172.75, low stocks, inquire with agent: Sélections Oeno )

This article is taken from a piece initially written for Good Food Revolution. If you love reading about artisinal wines, beers, and foods, check out this excellent website!

Education Wines

The Wines of Vinho Verde: Rustic Reds to New Wave Whites

Posted on November 22, 2023

The wines of Vinho Verde are often described as light, bright, and easy-drinking. White wine lovers enjoy their low alcohol, refreshing, subtly sparkling palate, with just a touch of fruity sweetness on the finish. An affordable option in a sea of increasingly expensive wine choices.

This highly stereotypical description has been used for decades to sum up the wines of the verdant Minho region of northwest Portugal. The consistency and unique personality of Vinho Verde wines made for a simple branding message that has long resonated with casual wine drinkers around the world.

This global success has been a boon to the region, allowing for expansion, modernization, and most importantly, a wave of quality-focused winemakers. Today, the wines of Vinho Verde are far more than a one-trick pony (stylistically speaking).

From Rustic Reds to Vibrant White Wines

Winemaking is not a new activity for the Minho area. The first literary references date back to the first century AD. The old Minho province was officially recognized as a wine region in 1908. At that time, and well into the latter half of the century, red wine dominated.

The agricultural focus was on dairy and corn. Vineyards were an afterthought, grown on the edges of fields, up trees or in overhead (pergola) canopies. The dense shading of these training methods, with cool winds and steady rain from the nearby Atlantic Ocean, made ripening a challenge and rot an ever-present concern. The wines were often thin, tart, and rough around the edges.

All that started to change in the late 1970s, with the advent of more modern winemaking practices including the introduction of inert tanks, temperature control, and a greater emphasis on cellar hygiene. This brought about a radical shift – to clean, fruity white wines with a subtle spritz of injected carbon dioxide to heighten their lively, early-drinking appeal.

The Blend & the Sum of Its Parts

While the Vinho Verde name has gained recognition among white wine lovers, the grapes that make up its blends have not. Over 45 different varieties are planted in the region. For white wines, the most common are Loureiro, Alvarinho, Arinto (aka Pedernã), Avesso, Azal Branco, and Trajadura.

Each grape had its role to play in the blend, Loureiro for its pretty floral aromatics, or its broader structure, Alvarinho for its vibrancy and its array of citrus, stone, and tropical fruit flavours, Arinto for its nervy minerality, Avesso for its creamy texture, Trajadura for its steely structure and so forth. However, the focus has traditionally always been the blend and not its component parts.

Fast forward to the late 1990s and all this began to change.

Vinho Verde’s Terroir Pioneers

The turn of the century brought with it a wave of new energy in Vinho Verde. A handful of respected winemakers, like Anselmo Mendes, Quinta da Soalheiro, and Quinta do Ameal, started setting their sights on more complex, age-worthy wines.

The vineyards of Vinho Verde are divided into nine sub-regions separated by the Minho, Lima, Cávado, Ave and Douro Rivers and their many tributaries. Each area is unique in its proximity or distance from the Atlantic, the influence of its waterways, its undulations, meso-climate, and so forth. Granitic sandy and loam-rich soils dominate throughout Vinho Verde, but several veins of schist traverse the region from south-east to northwest, and stony outcrops also exist in several areas.

Mendes and his contemporaries sought to dial into these sub-regional differences by creating specific blends or single variety bottlings that best expressed their place. In 1998, Mendes, a renowned Portuguese consulting winemaker, returned to his native Monção with this goal in mind.

The Vinho Verde sub-region of Monção and Melgaço is located in the northern reaches of the denomination, along the inland banks of the Minho River. Lower annual rainfall and warmer summer temperatures here create rich, structured Alvarinho wines with fragrant peach and exotic fruit notes.

Further south, other grapes found their groove. The Lima Valley proved an ideal terroir for single variety Loureiro, with its highly refreshing, floral expression. The inland sub-region of Baião has more continental influences with warmer summers. Here, the late ripening Avesso grape shines; developing notable body and depth.

Terroir-focused single variety bottlings, as well as blends, have become increasingly prominent in recent years. Winemaking practices vary from traditional, unoaked, early bottled styles to longer aged, discreetly oaked wines.

Map credit: *Comissão* de Viticultura da Região dos *Vinhos Verdes*

Beyond White Wine

Once a second-class crop relegated to the periphery, Vinho Verde vineyards now span some 16 thousand hectares. The wines are produced by 370 wine bottlers across the region. White wine remains the undisputed focus accounting for over 85% of sales, but Vinho Verde rosé and red wine are gaining a niche following.

Sparkling wine from Vinho Verde – not the subtly spritzy – but properly effervescent espumante wines made using the tank, traditional, and now Pét Nat methods are also generating buzz, though they remain difficult to come by in most export markets.

Quinta da Soalheiro was the first in the region to produce traditional method Alvarinho sparkling wine back in 1995. Almost thirty years later, they remain a reference for quality espumante, encouraging many to follow suit. Loureiro and Trajadura are also common choices for sparkling Vinho Verde.

Looking to the Future

Rainfall is high in much of Vinho Verde. While this makes for a lush, green landscape it also means that fungal disease is a constant threat. Despite this, some of Portugal’s leading names in biodynamic and in organic winemaking are based here.

In 2003, Vasco Croft took over abandoned family-owned vineyards in the Lima Valley. By year three he began converting the property to biodynamic farming and grew to over 20 hectares. The success of his estate, Aphros Wines, alongside fellow biodynamic great Fernando Paiva of Quinta da Palmirinha, is an inspiration to younger generations.

The list of certified organic wineries continues to grow, led by estates and négociants like Casa de Mouraz, Quinta das Arcas, Quinta de Santiago, and A&D Wines. Their efforts go far beyond prohibiting chemical vineyard treatments, to biodiversity initiatives, conservation initiatives, and an overall commitment to lowering carbon footprint.

A Tale of Two Vinho Verde

Those that love the simplicity of a crisp, light, spritzy Vinho Verde will not be lost in this brave new world of Vinho Verde wines. The region’s iconic style still makes up the brunt of its production. However, it is exciting to see how multi-faceted Vinho Verde wines have become.

New names of top Vinho Verde producers – from classic to avant-garde, traditional to natural – are cropping up all the time. Racy high acidity remains a hallmark of the region, across its sub-regional and single variety bottlings as well as its blends. However, fruit expressions, texture, and body vary more widely than ever before, offering something for every palate.

This article on The Wines of Vinho Verde is taken from a piece initially written for Good Food Revolution. If you love reading about artisinal wines, beers, and foods, check out this excellent website!

Education Wines

Italy’s Native Grape Varieties: Strength in Diversity

Posted on October 31, 2023

Among the many remarkable attributes of Italy’s wine industry, the sector’s resilience is surely its most impressive feature. The trials and tribulations, the production booms and busts, the sheer drama, and shocking scandals that Italian wine has overcome…

After all, who could forget the rash of 1980s methyl alcohol poisonings that left 19 wine drinkers dead and countless others with serious neurological deficits? Or the ignoble fake wines of the 1960s, where water and dregs from grape pressings were mixed with a variety of “ingredients” ranging from pureed figs to molasses to cattle blood.

Less dire but equally illicit are the countless discoveries of illegal grape blending, the most famous of which is perhaps the 2008 “Brunellogate” chapter. And yet, with every blow to their winemaking reputation—at home and internationally—Italy has always managed to rise from the ashes. Often, with the advantage of more stringent controls and a greater drive to boost wine quality.

Though Italian wine sales have flattened over the past year, in line with an international trend of slowing consumption and the global economic downturn, the UIV-Vinitaly Observatory indicates that the past 15 – 20 years have seen near uninterrupted export growth.

The Prosecco craze has had a lot to do with international (and domestic) volume growth in recent years. In value terms, Italy’s fine wine reputation has largely been carried by its famed regions like Barolo, Montalcino, Chianti Classico, or Amarone since the 1990s.

However, Italy has far more strings to its vinous bow than easy drinking bubbly and a handful of prestigious appellations. Sought-after wines are cropping up in all of Italy’s 20 wine producing regions, leading curious oenophiles to explore the country’s wealth of distinctive terroirs and indigenous varieties more closely than ever before.

Indeed, Italy’s native grapes are its greatest strength.

Estimates vary, but according to Italian wine expert, Ian D’Agata, Italy grows roughly 2,000 autochthonous cultivars. Nearly 400 of these grapes are produced in commercially significant volumes. The numbers are growing steadily as once forgotten grapes like Timorasso, Schioppettino, or Recantina make a comeback.

Why is this important? Because Italy’s indigenous varieties are an essential part of the country’s cultural heritage. They also set Italy apart from most other significant wine-producing regions. The International Organisation of Vine and Wine indicates that one-third of vineyards world-wide are planted to just 13 international grapes. In comparison, seven of Italy’s top ten most planted grapes are local.

“Native wine grapes hail from a particular place and region, and express a terroir unlike that of grapes cultivated anywhere else in the world. They are also specifically adapted to the environment in which they grow, representing the most ecologically friendly agriculture possible.” – Ian D’Agata, Club Oenologique.

The movement among Italy’s quality-minded grape growers to renew their focus on local varieties and resurrect forgotten cultivars was initially a question of preservation. Now, many are looking to indigenous grapes as the best local response to climate change challenges.

Countless numbers of Italian grapes were lost in the aftermath of the powdery mildew and Phylloxera ravages at the turn of the 20th century. Vineyards were replanted with maximum economic return in mind, with grapes that produced the largest yields and ripened earlier and more consistently.

Many later maturing grapes – that struggled to reach full ripeness most years – were forsaken, but for a handful of traditional growers. As temperatures continue to soar and harvest dates are moving alarmingly forward, late ripening varieties are becoming increasingly important.

Drought resistance is another essential grape attribute in a warming environment. The torrid conditions of Italy’s southern wine regions are not new. Over the centuries, many of their local grapes have learned to thrive with very little water. As more northerly regions begin to mirror the hot, dry conditions of Italy’s south, these varieties will likely migrate northward; a phenomenon already being seen in certain Tuscan vineyards.

Italy has several significant geographical advantages in terms of weathering the current intense heat spells associated with climate change. Coastal vineyards on its peninsular mainland and islands benefit from cooling marine breezes. Many of its inland regions are crisscrossed by lakes and rivers that also temper extremes. Finally, its mountainous interior has allowed many producers to move upwards in search of cooler vineyard sites.

Despite this, grape growing is becoming ever more challenging and unpredictable. The 2023 growing season was not kind to wine producers in central and southern Italy. Heavy rains, flooding, hailstorms, drought, and widespread downy mildew all conspired to slash harvests by 20% to 30%, according to local reports.

Italian wine lobby groups UIV and Assoenologi estimate a 12% decrease in volume output as compared to 2022, meaning that after a long hiatus, France has overtaken Italy as the world’s leading wine producer. While the news isn’t good for Italy, it will hopefully allow oversupply in certain regions to decrease.

Only time will tell how the world’s major vineyards fare, faced with over-production, climate threats, and changing consumer patterns. If there is one country that can weather the storm, as they have done for so many millennia, it is certainly Italy.

This piece on Italy’s Native Grape Varieties is re-printed (with permission) from my article written for Good Food Revolution. If you want to learn more about artisanal food, wine, beer and spirits, check out their excellent website.

Education Wines

Vinho Verde Wines… The Serious Side

Posted on September 30, 2023

Vinho Verde wines. The ultimate in light, bright, easy-drinking whites. Low in alcohol, refreshing, subtly sparkling, and with just a touch of fruity sweetness on the finish. An affordable option in a sea of increasingly expensive wine choices.

This global success has been a boon to the region, allowing for expansion, modernization, and, most importantly, a wave of quality-focused winemakers. Stylistically, the Vinho Verde wines of today are far more than a one-trick pony.

From Rustic Reds to Modern White Vinho Verde Wines

The agricultural focus was on dairy and corn. Vineyards were an afterthought, grown on the edges of fields, up trees, or in overhead (pergola) canopies. The dense shading of these training methods, combined with cool winds and steady rain from the nearby Atlantic Ocean, made ripening a challenge and rot an ever-present concern. The wines were often thin, tart, and rough around the edges.

Vinho Verde History. Photo credit: Photo: Casa Alvão/ Comissão de Viticultura da Região dos Vinhos Verdes

All that started to change in the late 1970s, with the advent of more modern winemaking practices, including the introduction of inert tanks, temperature control, and a greater emphasis on cellar hygiene. This brought about a radical shift – to clean, fruity white wines with a subtle spritz of injected carbon dioxide to heighten their lively, early-drinking appeal.

Vinho Verde Wines : The Blend and the Sum of its Parts

Each grape had its role to play in the blend, Loureiro for its pretty floral aromatics or its broader structure, Alvarinho for its vibrancy and its array of citrus, stone, and tropical fruit flavours, Arinto for its nervy minerality, Avesso for its creamy texture, Trajadura for its steely structure and so forth. However, the focus has traditionally always been the blend and not its component parts.

Fast forward to the late 1990s, and all this began to change.

Vinho Verde Wines Terroir Pioneers

Anselmo Mendes. Photo Credit: Anselmo Mendes Vinhos

Beyond White Vinho Verde Wines

Once a second-class crop relegated to the periphery, Vinho Verde vineyards now span some 16 thousand hectares. The wines are produced by 370 wine bottlers across the region. White wine remains the undisputed focus, accounting for over 85% of sales, but Vinho Verde rosé and red wine are gaining a niche following.

Looking to the Future

Rainfall is high in much of Vinho Verde. While this makes for a lush, green landscape, it also means that fungal disease is a constant threat. Despite this, some of Portugal’s leading names in biodynamic and in organic winemaking are based here.

Vinho Verde Wines. Douro River Region. Photo Credit: Comissão de Viticultura da Região dos Vinhos Verdes

In 2003, Vasco Croft took over abandoned family-owned vineyards in the Lima Valley. By year three he began converting the property to biodynamic farming, and grew to over 20 hectares. The success of his estate, Aphros Wines, alongside fellow biodynamic great Fernando Paiva of Quinta da Palmirinha, is an inspiration to younger generations.

A Tale of Two Vinho Verde Wines

Those who love the simplicity of a crisp, light, spritzy Vinho Verde will not be lost in this brave new world of Vinho Verde wines. The region’s iconic style still makes up the bulk of its production. However, it is exciting to see how multi-faceted Vinho Verde wines have become.

This Vinho Verde Wines piece is re-printed (with permission) from my article written for Good Food Revolution. If you want to learn more about artisanal food, wine, beer and spirits, check out their excellent website.

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Gulfi Nero d’Avola: A Grand Cru Tasting

Posted on September 19, 2023

I have long been an enthusiast of Gulfi Nero d’Avola wines. Despite the arid summer heat of their vineyards in Sicily’s southeast, Gulfi manages to coax freshness and finesse from the region’s powerful red grape. I recently had the occasion to taste the estate’s top wines, alongside their irresistible Cerasuolo Di Vittoria.

Matteo Catania is one of the most infectiously enthusiastic wine producers I have ever met. When he gets started extolling the terroir virtues of his native Chiaramonte Gulfi, or his prime vineyard parcels in Pachino Val di Noto, he can go on for hours. Thankfully, his story is a good one.

It starts with a vision for producing fine wines, of Bourgogne-like elegance, in an area best known for bold, brawny reds. It speaks of determination and a commitment to grow more sustainably – without recourse to irrigation, without chemical treatments, using holistic, biodynamic practices. To read more, check out my profile on Gulfi Wines covering their background and a tasting of their mid-range wines.

In May, I caught up with Matteo Catania once again, this time to taste his single vineyard bottlings from Pachino. The recently granted Pachino DOC lies in the Val di Noto on the southeastern tip of Sicily. According to Matteo, it is the country’s “grand cru” area for the Nero d’Avola grape.

The low lying vineyards of Pachino sit at just 30 metres above sea level between the Ionian and Mediterranean seas. The vines are buffeted by near constant cross winds which cools the temperature and keeps yields low, concentrating flavours.

Significant tectonic activity in the region, due to the meeting of the African and European continent’s tectonic plates in the area, has led to mass upheaval over time. This explains the wide diversity of soil types, predominantly volcanic, limestone, and clay-based.

Gulfi Nero Maccàrj 2017 – 92pts. LW

The Maccàri contrada (aka single vineyard) has chalky clay soils and a warm, south, southwestern orientation. The vines are mature, at over 35-years in age on average. The estate’s policy of dry farming and dense plantings of head-pruned bush-vines in the traditional Alberello style result in very low yields, of just 30 hectolitres/ hectare.

A dark, brooding Nero d’Avola with attractive aromas of cherry stone, black plum, and dried flowers overlying hints of wet earth and cedar. The palate is powerful and fleshy, with a concentrated core of orange peel, dark fruit, and savoury nuances. Finishes fresh, with chalky, ripe tannins. A big but balanced, vibrant red. Decant and serve slightly chilled.

Where to Buy: SAQ ($54.00, code: 15086599), agent: Bambara Selections

Gulfi Nero Bufaleffj 2017 – 94pts. LW

The Bufaleffj contrada has varied soils of mainly volcanic origin, with areas of black clay, red clay, gravel outcrops, and sandy areas. Vinification is similar for the three contrada, native yeast fermentation in stainless steel, followed by two years’ ageing in 500L tonneaux, and an extending resting period after bottling.

Matteo describes the Bufaleffj as “richer, rounder, and more powerful” than the Maccàrj and Sanloré cuvées. The 2017 vintage is indeed a commanding wine. Successive aromas of dark chocolate, baked black plum, cherry stone, blueberry, and almond essence play across the nose. The palate is brisk, full-bodied, and initially quite firm, with impressive mid-palate depth. Notes of wild herbs, tangy dark fruit, cocoa, cedar, and subtle meaty undertones linger on the bold, tannic finish. Decant, or if you have the patience, cellar for at least another 2 – 3 years.

Where to Buy: SAQ ($66.25, code: 15086610), agent: Bambara Selections

Gulfi Nero Sanloré 2017 – 96pts. LW

The San Lorenzo contrada is located less than 70 metres from the Ionian sea, just 15 metres above sea level. Matteo describes the cuvée as “an English gentleman; aristocratic, impeccable, understated and complex”. He goes on to explain how the area’s red, sandy soils give a softer tannin profile, while the proximity to the coast brings lots of freshness and a form of “marine salinity” that makes them very food friendly.

The 2017 vintage is definitely akin to Matteo’s description. Layered aromas of fresh red and dark fruit, dried citrus peel, wild herbs, and balsamic nuances gain in intensity with aeration. The palate opens with lip-smacking freshness that lifts and lightens the bold frame. Quite textural, with lots of tension, and attractive, fine-grained tannins. The finish is long, earthy, and vibrant with lingering bright fruit, savoury hints, and yes…even a hint of salinity. A highly elegant wine. Decant and serve marginally chilled.

Where to Buy: SAQ ($66.25, code: 15086601), agent: Bambara Selections

The final wine is not from a Pachino terroir. However, the new vintage has just been released and it is such amazing value that I couldn’t resist including it here!

Gulfi Cerasuolo Di Vittoria 2020 – 94 pts. PW

Cerasuolo di Vittoria is Sicily’s one and only DOCG appellation. The area of Vittoria is located due west of the Val di Noto, across the Hyblaean mountains, near the Mediterranean coast. Here, Nero d’Avola is joined by the lively, red berry scented Frappato grape. This cuvée is fermented and aged for just under one year in stainless steel, to preserve its youthful, fruity charm.

And charming it very much is! Vivid red berry, cherry, and floral aromas mingle with hints of nutmeg and cracked pepper on the nose. The palate is medium-bodied, with a supple, glossy texture perfectly balanced by lively acidity and juicy, persistent red and dark fruit flavours. A serious, yet ever so easy drinking red. Serve at 16°C to (max) 18°C.

Where to Buy: SAQ ($32.50, code: 14044848), agent: Bambara Selections

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On Seven Estate Winery: Top Canadian Chardonnay

Posted on September 8, 2023

The top Canadian Chardonnay of twenty years ago were big wines. They were oak-heavy, high in alcohol, ultra-ripe, but also, often sharp in terms of their acid profile. In recent years, judging the National Wine Awards of Canada, and sampling many other top Canadian Chardonnay, it has been clear to see that the style has dramatically shifted.

Many great producers have emerged from coast to coast. In Niagara, wineries like Bachelder, Hidden Bench, Pearl Morisette, and Leaning Post – among many others – have ably shown the region’s potential to make exciting Chardonnay. Among the newer entrants, On Seven Estate Winery is a true stand out.

The property, “on seven” acres of abandoned vineyards in Niagara-on-the-Lake’s Four Mile Creek area, was acquired by aficionados Vittorio & Sula de Stefano in 2009. After extensive uprooting, site analysis, and planning, five acres were planted in well-draining, clay loam soils with significant chalky deposits . No expense was spared.

After a lengthy wait, de Stefano was able to procure top quality rootstocks and clones directly from Burgundy’s highly respected Mercier nursery. Under the guidance of veteran viticultural consultant, Peter Gamble, On Seven estate proceeded to produce very low yields (1 – 2 tonnes per acre) of certified organic wines of impressive complexity and finesse.

The quality here is all the more noteworthy given the location of vineyards. Niagara-on-the-Lake is home to many of the warmest vineyard sites of the peninsula. Most vintners head for the benchlands, in the Niagara Escarpment area, to make cool climate Chardonnay. On Seven derives freshness from a combination of north-facing slopes, chalky soils, and higher acid Dijon clones.

The wines are made in a low intervention style, with gentle, whole cluster pressing, wild yeast fermentations, and lengthy ageing in low levels of new French oak. Tasting across the years, from the inaugural 2017 vintage, to the 2018s and now the 2020s, the quality is consistently high.

And now, the wines are finally available in Québec, though in minute volumes so get them while they last!

On Seven Estate “The Pursuit” Chardonnay 2020 – 94pts.

Initially reserved, with attractive green fruit, citrus blossom, almond, and brioche notes emerging with aeration. The palate displays lovely tension, with crisp acidity, steely structure, and subtly creamy core. Tangy orchard fruit and savoury nuance linger on the finish. Still quite youthful and taut, with a long life ahead. Decant an hour before serving.

On Seven Estate “The Devotion” Chardonnay 2020 – 95pts.

Sourced from their best plots, The Devotion is On Seven estate’s star Chardonnay. A mere 91-cases were made of the 2020 vintage. It is a hugely promising wine. Enticing aromas of anise, white flowers, apple, and hazelnut nougat define the nose. The palate is full-bodied yet lithe and silky in texture with an expansive, layered mid-palate. Finishes on a lifted, savoury note with subtle, refreshing salinity.

Given the boutique size of the winery and lengthy ageing (three years from harvest to bottling), it is not always easy to get your hands on a bottle. If you live in Ontario, I highly recommend getting on their mailing list for future releases. In Québec, the first allocation has arrived! Inquire with agent: Symbiose Vins

Education Reviews Wines

Where did all the Santorini White Wine Go?

Posted on June 6, 2023

I recently attended a tasting of impressive Santorini white wine. The Assyrtiko grape had fallen off my radar recently and I was glad to be reacquainted with the crisp, steely, mineral-laced style typical to this Greek volcanic island.

Given the trends among more involved wine enthusiasts, towards sustainably produced wines, indigenous varieties, “authentic” wine regions, and lighter, more vibrant wines, I would have thought that Santorini white wines would be rising in popularity.

A few years back, Assyrtiko white wines – from Santorini and across Greece – flooded my local wine shops each summer. I regularly had one chilling in my fridge. A quick search of SAQ and LCBO offerings showed me why I had forgotten Santorini’s signature grape. They are all gone.

Santorini’s Low Yields of Old Vine White Wines

Santorini is an island in the southern Aegean Sea, some 200 kilometres southeast of mainland Greece. In 1650 B.C., Santorini experienced one of the largest volcanic eruptions ever documented. The island is part of the Hellenic Volcanic Arc, one of the most significant volcanic fields in Europe – still very much active today.

Santorini’s soils are a mix of lava, volcanic ash, and pumice stone. The lack of clay and thus organic matter provides a barrier against many pests and diseases, most notably phylloxera. As such, the island’s vines are own-rooted, with a significant number of venerable old vines.

The climate is hot and very dry. Despite this, vineyards are not irrigated. Humidity from sea breezes is absorbed by the volcanic soils. The intensity of the winds that buffet the island is too much for a trellised vineyard. Vines are therefore trained in a unique spiral, whereby vine canes are “woven” into a basket shape with the grapes growing inside this protective shield.

Leading Santorini wine producer, Santo Wines, explains that “the bigger the basket, the older the plant, with some of them boasting a root system more than 200 years old”. This ground level basket training system, called Kouloura, means back-breaking labour that can only be accomplished by hand.

The combination of a hot, dry, windy climate, and kouloura vine training, equates to very low yields. Many growers indicate a mere 10 – 20 hectolitres/ hectare harvest level. Put in perspective, this is far less than yields derived from Grand Cru Bourgogne plots. Combine this with the rough estimate given to me of 1500 hectares total acreage for Santorini and you quickly realize how little wine is produced annually.

The Unique Flavour of Santorini’s Signature Grape

No photo description available. — Photo credit: Wines of Greece (Kouloura trained Assyrtiko vine)

While most varieties of Vitis vinifera are happiest in Mediterranean climates, the particularly dry, windy conditions of Santorini would be inhospitable to many. Happily, the region found its perfect grape thousands of years ago: the white variety, Assyrtiko.

According to Wines of Greece, Santorini boasts Assyrtiko vineyards that date back 3500 years. Assyrtiko thrives in Santorini’s dry, volcanic soils. Despite the heat, Assyrtiko maintains vibrant, high acidity as the grape matures. It is not uncommon to taste Assyrtiko wines at over 14% alcohol with a level of crisp, refreshing acidity that belies their evident ripeness.

Santorini white wines are rarely overtly fruity. Assyrtiko tends toward an earthier, wet stone or oyster shell type minerality on the nose. The grape’s ripeness presents itself more on the palate, in its weighty structure, layered texture, and slight phenolic (tannic) edge.

Of course, the island also produces leaner, fruitier styles of Assyrtiko – often from younger vines or less favourable vineyard sites, but given its small production, more and more producers are focusing on premium Assyrtiko wines, of the former style.

Assyrtiko wines are often unoaked, though in line with a move toward more premium winemaking, many producers are experimenting with longer ageing, extended lees contact, and carefully managed oak ageing. Nykteri is the name given to Santorini dry white wines, left to hang longer on the vines, with a short period of skin contact in the winery, and a period of barrel ageing.

The island also makes very limited quantities of stunning Vinsanto. The grapes for these luscious, sweet wines are left to partially desiccate in the sun for a couple of weeks before a long, slow fermentation. After a few years of barrel ageing, they are an amber coloured liquid ambrosia.

So why has all the Santorini White Wine Disappeared?

The Santorini white wines that featured on wine store end aisles five years ago all sat at an “entry premium” dollar value in the high teens to low twenties. The labour involved and low yields meant that these wines were ludicrously under priced and not a sustainable way forward for the island’s producers. However, when prices were raised, sales slowed, and the listings were dropped.

A while back, I interviewed Jermaine Stone, hip hop artist turned fine wine auction director, now owner of wine importing and consultancy firm, Cru Luv Selections. We were chatting about perceived wine value from one region to another and compared with other luxury goods.

Stone gave examples of teenagers saving up for Yeezy sneakers they know they will outgrow or a middle-income worker shelling out on a Balenciaga handbag. Few regions have managed this feat of creating a luxury aura around their wines. “People have the money. They just don’t have the reverence for the product” according to Stone. “If they don’t think it’s special, they won’t want it”.

With yields as low as they are, it isn’t necessarily a bad thing that Santorini white wine sales are no longer focused on volume-driven outlets like monopoly wine stores. As the quality rises, the wines deserve a hand-selling approach built around creating that necessary reverence. But who will step forward as the region’s champion among Canada’s sommeliers and fine wine buyers? Only time will tell…

Santo Wines, Santorini — Photo credit: Santo Wines

A Handful of recently tasted Interesting Santorini White Wines

Domaine Sigalas Santorini 2022 – 92pts.

Discreet green citrus, wild herbal, and flinty aromas feature on the nose. The palate invigorates with its high, lip-smacking acidity, chalky texture, and lingering salinity. Light and dry with lots of verve, this 100% Assyrtiko is fermented stainless steel and aged for three months, with regular lees stirring.

Gaia Wines “Thalassitis” Santorini 2021 – 90pts.

Sourced from sixty-year-old Assyrtiko vineyards. Earthy, wet stone hints mingle with fragrant yellow apple and apricot aromas. These ripe fruited notes give way to tangy citrus flavours on the palate. Racy and medium weight, with pleasant grapefruit pith bitters that lift the finish.

Santo Wines Santorini Assyrtiko 2022 – 89pts.

Sixty- to eighty-year-old vines, grown at 400 metres altitude. Macerated six hours on skins before fermenting in stainless steel and brief ageing. Light-bodied, with nervy flavours of lime, gooseberry, and earthy minerals. Piercing acidity and a taut structure give this very dry wine a tingly, electric sensation on the palate.

Estate Argyros Cuvee Monsignori Santorini 2020 – 94pts.

Venerable old vines (estimated at 200 years in age), fermented with wild years and aged for ten months on fine lees in stainless steel tanks. Subtle, yet highly attractive white floral, flinty, smoky nuances on the nose. Initially silky on the palate, building up to a powerful structural crescendo. Savoury and saline, with a long finish of refreshing, grapefruit pith bitters.

Gaia Santorini Wild Ferment 2022 – 91pts.

Seventy- to eighty-year-old vines. Native yeast fermentation in stainless steel, oak, and acacia barrels, followed by twelve months’ ageing. Reminiscent of a Graves white Bordeaux nose. The palate is full-bodied, with bracing acidity and a creamy mid-palate. Juicy flavours of apricots and nectarines balance the hints of toasty, spiced oak nicely. Very powerful. Hold for one to two years or decant.

Santo Wines Nykteri 2021 – 90pts.

85% Assyrtiko, blended with secondary white grapes Athiri and Aidani. Fifty-year-old vines. Blend is aged six months in French oak foudres. Pretty aromas of white flowers, beeswax, wet stone, and preserved lemon play across the nose. Very youthful on the palate with its firm acidity, structure, and tannins. Hints of juicy apple flavours emerge with aeration. Needs time to soften.

Sigalis Santorini Barrel 2021 91pts.

Aged in French oak barrels (10% new) for eight months, this 100% Assyrtiko wine is sourced from selected blocks of sixty year+ aged plots across the island. Complex notes of ripe stone fruit mingle with wild herbs, spring blossoms, and exotic spice on the nose. The palate is rounded and fleshy, lifted by brisk acidity that accentuates lingering salty hints on the finish.

This “Santorini White Wine” piece is re-printed (with permission) from my article written for Good Food Revolution. If you want to learn more about artisanal food, wine, beer and spirits, check out their excellent website.

Education Life Reviews Wines

It’s Time for Serious Rosé Wine…

Posted on April 24, 2023

Elizabeth Gabay MW is one of the world’s foremost experts on rosé wines. She is the author of two major reference guides, Rosé: Understanding the Pink Wine Revolution and Rosés of Southern France. I recently had the pleasure of chatting with Gabay about what’s new in serious rosé wine (aka the world beyond the pale, poolside pink wines that flood our wine store shelves each spring).

What do you find are the most interesting trends in the world of rosé wines?

I think one of the big problems when we talk about premium rosé trends is, it’s like talking about trends in cru classé Bordeaux or Domaine Romanée Conti. It is such a small percentage of rosé production. 90% of rosé that I taste is aiming at the same pale, dry, bland commercial style.

Though, where serious rosé wine is concerned, a small contingent of producers are experimenting. They are looking at things like the porosity of cement or amphora to minimize reductive character. They’re looking at different barrels to soften tannins. I’m working with a rosé vinified in acacia.

So, there is that happening. And then on the other side, there is the natural wine movement.

Is natural wine playing an important role in rosé wine?

I think natural winemakers are incredibly important for the rosé category because you’ve got people who are breaking down the rules. They’re doing things like solera rosé, much more spontaneous fermentation, and so on.

Last week I tasted a Greek Moschofilero “rosé” for Decanter. It is basically a gris coloured grape which spends a week on the skins and turns a shade of dark pink, but it has all the texture of a skin contact white wine.

We tasted a rosé from Uruguay which was 50% red and 50% white grapes blended together to make a rosé. It does all its fermentation on the skins, so is it an orange wine? A red? A white? Is it rosé? It’s a sort of fusion.

These wines only represent about 2% of rosé production, but I find them really exciting.

What do you like most about them?

Personally, I really like funky rosé. I am looking for the Picasso, I’m not looking for the pretty picture. I’m looking for a wine that is going to challenge me. It may not be yacht worthy, but if it has made me sit up and think, I am happy.

For me, texture is quite an important element for serious rosé wine. This is why cement or oak are quite good, or a bit of skin contact. I love spontaneous fermentation on rosé. One reason you won’t get it in bulk stuff is that they want the rosé to be ready for the en-primeur market in January. That rush to get the new vintage in market by Easter is very destructive on rosé.

As natural wine becomes more mainstream, do you think we will see more rosé producers embracing a lower interventionist style?

It’s not really hitting rosé in a major way yet because too many people see rosé as swimming pool wine so why would you bother doing anything funky with it? It’s almost as though its very success has killed off creativity.

At present, the premium rosé people aren’t talking to the natural people, so we’ve got these different branches splitting off. I would like premium rosé producers to take off their blinkers and have the confidence to say, you know what we could actually learn from each other.

Is this lack of confidence driven by consumers? Are people simply not interested in drinking more diverse rosé styles? Or more expensive rosés?

I think this is a major problem with rosé and it is something I am trying to work with. If you look at restaurant wine lists, there is a huge selection of white and red wines. They don’t do that for rosé. The trade is not showing consumers how they can branch out or move up in the rosé sector. Rosé is between 10 and 50% of sales, depending on country and time of year. Why should it only be one or two options on a restaurant wine list?

Even if someone went to a Michelin starred restaurant and wanted to drink rosé, they wouldn’t have more than a few, quite similar choices, none of them of the quality level expected in such a restaurant.

This is a very good point. Where do you think we could see increased diversity in rosé wines? You mentioned some of the winemaking experimentation that is happening. What about grape varieties? I spoke to a Provence winery last week who felt the only truly great grape for rosé is Grenache…

Every big producer in Southern France feels this way and I absolutely don’t agree. It is as though you interviewed a Burgundy producer who said, you know what, the only grape that makes fine red wine is Pinot Noir. This is blinkered thinking.

Grenache is not the only great variety to make good rosé. It is a great variety that makes rosé within a specific style. One of the big problems is that Grenache oxidises really easily, so producers tend to make it using a 100% reductive method. That means fermenting dead cold with cultured yeasts that give a grapefruit character. Is that the best rosé in the world, really? Absolutely not.

There are plenty of excellent rosé grapes: Negroamaro from Puglia, Grenache blended with Tempranillo as they do in Rioja, Xinomavro, Blaufränkisch. They all make great rosé.

Do you see any countries that could be real competitors for France in terms of having a strong identity linked with rosé winemaking?

There are lots and lots of excellent rosé producers around the world but there is no one with the same cohesion as Provence. That is why they are so successful. For 30 years they’ve had a very cohesive marketing policy. They’ve created their identity. And they’ve stuck to it.

We don’t get a lot of rosés from South Africa, Australia, New Zealand, or California in Europe so I can’t comment there. However, I taste widely across Europe and so many regions are struggling not to make a Provence style rosé. I ask them to send examples that aren’t Provence imitations, and they really have a problem there. Tavel is really the only rosé-based region that is sticking to its individual style and even there, there is some dispute on the direction the appellation is taking.

There is a growing group of top rosé estates in Rioja, but we’re talking about 10 wineries. There is fantastic rosé in places like Greece and Austria as well, but it is isolated producers, and their heart isn’t in it.

Ben (Bernheim, co-author of Rosés of Southern France) likes to ask wineries making good rosé, “if there was a fire, which vines would you save, the red wine grapes or the rosé”? It is always the red. It’s a bit sad really.

Having said all of that, I am very excited by the high quality of roses that are increasingly being produced. So, it’s not a negative thing, it is just that there is a lot more work to actually bring it together.

Five serious rosé wines on Elizabeth Gabay’s radar right now…

Tête de Cuvée, Château Maissy, Tavel
Clos Cibonne, Côtes de Provence
Ekato Moschofilero, Ktima Troupis, Greece
Giana Masciarelli Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo, Italy
Rosato Reserva, Quinta da Cuca, Douro, Portugal

This “Serious Rosé Wine” piece is re-printed (with permission) from my article written for Good Food Revolution. If you want to learn more about artisanal food, wine, beer and spirits, check out their excellent website.

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Wines

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Vinho Verde Wines : The Blend and the Sum of its Parts

Vinho Verde Wines Terroir Pioneers

Beyond White Vinho Verde Wines

Looking to the Future

A Tale of Two Vinho Verde Wines

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